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MTX Thunder 102?


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kirktcashalini 
Silver - Posts: 492
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Joined: November 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 16, 2006 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged  
Hey, I recently got a half oldish still good condition MTX Thunder 102. I am going to run it for a single 10" sub. It was used (duh), and Doesnt have a manual. I could not find a pdf manual online all i could find was
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/archive/thunder102.cfm
I am wondering about wiring bridged. It probably says right on the damn amp, but I am impatient, and am expecting it in a couple days ebay baby. And Am wondering. I know 4 ohms is the lowest load it will do bridged. But is it L+ R-    or     R+ L-
It is a very budget build, and got the amp practically free, but said it was in good working and visual condition, so I wil give it a try.   Also, is there a difference, if I were to use LOC at the back speakers in the trunk, Or should I use the Speaker Level Inputs (I heard those suck). If It were my car It would be done at head unit, But This is cheap and fast, just to get a little more bass. Thanks for responces.
99 Blazer LT.   Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)
stevdart 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 16, 2006 at 9:55 PM / IP Logged  
It will say right on the damn amp :-)  It is spec'd as bridgeable.  If it's all worn off and you can't see it when you get the amp it will be the outermost terminals.  At least, that would be by rum-induced guess.  For the LOC, consider this:  does the deck have a fader?  And would you normally like to fade the rears a little lower than the fronts?  If so, don't connect the LOC to the back rears because the signal will fade to the sub...attach to the fronts.  Using the built-in is a shot...the first symptom of a problem go get a quality LOC and save yourself the time trying to troubleshoot.  Symptoms can be far-ranging and don't necessarily point at the high level input as the culprit.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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