06 honda accord, two 530t window modules

I've got a 2006 Honda Accord 4DR LX V6, and I want to install two DEI 530T window modules. I want to run them all in the drivers door, if possible. The first time I tried this, I started with just the drivers side rear door, tested everything, clipped wires, and ended up with blown fuses. I never got it to work and gave up after a few hours. So this time I went to the switches in the drivers door and tested everything, here's what I came up with. Looking at the back of the plug; 1 - 12V 2 - 12V with PF down 3 - 5V 4 - 0V 5 - 12V ignition 6 - 0V when DF closed, 2.5 during travel, 5V when DF open 7 - 1.6 ignition, 12V when car off 8 - 0V 9 - 0V 10 - 12V with DF down 11 - 12V with PR up 12 - 12V with DR up 13 - 12V with PR down 14 - 12V 15 - 0V 16 - 5V when DF closed, 2.5 during travel, 0V when DF open 17 - 12V with PF up 18 - 12V with DR down 19 - 12V ignition 20 - 5V ignition 21 - 5V 22 - 12V with DF up The driver's door is the only one that has a one-touch up/down feature (which is why I assume there's the 5V values). When I put the meter over 2 and 17, or 10 and 22, or 11 and 13, or 12 and 18, it's 12V or -12V depending on direction of travel. All of these wires rest open. Is this a simple 5-wire? Can I use the 530T's just on these wires, or must I take it to each door switch? Any tips and pointers are welcome, as I've yet to clip wires for this go-round. It's gotten beautiful outside and I've been itching for this feature the last few days. Thanks!! - Chris

Check previous posts on this, there's a way to give it comfort or total close.   If you use a 530t  you must go to the motor wires in each door.   Like Mits and some Toyota those leads you're measuring at 5volts are probably data.

howie ll wrote: Check previous posts on this, there's a way to give it comfort or total close.   If you use a 530t  you must go to the motor wires in each door.   Like Mits and some Toyota those leads you're measuring at 5volts are probably data.

Can you elaborate a little on this? I did put these two units in the drivers door of my 2004 Subaru WRX, and it worked fine for over 4 years. I'm at a loss as to why it won't work in this scenario as well (over the 4 pair of wires that I mention in the above post), as the meter does show increased load when the windows stop rolling (voltage drops when window travel stops). And seeing that the 530Ts look for increased load to know when to shut off, what's keeping it from working in this manner? I appreciate the assistance, I have searched for other input on these modules but would like some more specific attention to my application if any is willing to give it.

Do you need the remote-controlled windows to work with the car running or no? Do you need to have one-touch up/down on all windows? If not, no need for those 530Ts. As long as the car's off, if you hold the key in the Lock or Unlock position in the driver's door key cylinder, it'll raise or lower the windows. You can just apply extended pulses from your alarm or remote starter to the arm and disarm wires inside the door, and your windows will go up and down.

No, I want it to work during remote start, and I'd also like it to work to roll the windows up when arming the car. I like the features of the 530T and would like to implement them.

Then go to each set of motor wires in each door that's the only way to get full function anyway, you must wire past the outboard switches, as per the instructions.