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1999 dodge ram viper 5704


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uf-engineer 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 8:42 PM / IP Logged  

1999 Dodge Ram Python 574 / Viper 5704 Help

I’m new to alarms installs but not to wiring, soldering, using a DMM. I intend to verify all my connection prior to soldering. I hate using black tape. Is there an alternative without cutting the connection wire?

According to a few sources, my truck has the following configuration:

Constant 12V+   Pink/Black or Red   Ignition Switch Harness

Starter     Yellow or Blue / YELLOW          Ignition Switch Harness, Must Add Relay for Remote Start

Ignition   Dark Blue      Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition 2 BLACK/ White     Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory         BLACK/ Orange   Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)

Tach     BLACK/ Gray        PCM Passenger's Rear of Engine on Firewall

Neutral Safety Wire     BLACK/ White      (-) Ignition Switch Harness

Brake Switch    WHITE/ Tan         Brake Switch or Ignition Switch Harness

Trunk Pin n/a

Parking Lights    BLACK / YELLOW (+) Driver's Kick Panel White Connector Driver's Kick Panel

Head Lamp        Light GREEN/ Black    Steering Column

Factory Disarm Light         GREEN/ Orange    ( -) 24 Pin Connector behind Driver's Dash

Door Trigger          Yellow        (-) Driver's Kick Panel White Connector Driver's Kick

Door Lock          ORANGE / Purple         (REV) 10 Pin Connector Driver's Kick Panel Reverse Polarity

Door Unlock       Pink/Purple Driver's Kick Panel

Driver's Lock         ORANGE / Black          Left Kick Panel

Driver's Unlock     Pink/Black Left Kick Panel

Passenger Unlock Pink/Purple           Left Kick Panel

Horn Wire BLACK/ Red (-) 74 Pin Connector behind Driver's Dash

Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=BROWN / White

Windows Down LF=White, RF=PURPLE / White

I have a glass break sensor to add. I’m considering a remote window control sensor as well.

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector 1999 Dodge Ram

H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT . . . Pink/Black @ Ignition Harness

H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND . . . Ground to Frame

H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT . . . To Siren

H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay Not Used

H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT . . . (+) Black / Yellow Behind Headlight Switch. Set Flash polarity on alarm brain.

H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Window roll-up otherwise not used

H2 Harness, 24-pin connector 1999 Dodge Ram

H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT . . Not Used

H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT . . . . . Ground to Frame or Hood Pin DIODE NEEDED ?

H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT . . (-) 200mA Holds amps when activated ... Not Used

H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT . . . Not Used

H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT . . . . Not Used

H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) . . . . (-) Yellow Behind Headlight Switch

H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT . . . To Relay 85 pin. Put 12v to 86 pin. H2/6 to pin 30 on relay. Pin 87 to ground or 12 Volts (verify what triggers dome light).

H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT . . . . (-) Black / Red at steering column

H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT . . . . . Not Used

H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT . . . . . Not Used

H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT . . . . . Not Used

H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT . . . . . To drive external relay, window roll-up option otherwise not used

H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT . . . . . (+) White / Tan at Brake Pedal Switch

H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) . . . . . (-) Hood Pin Switch

H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT . . . . Used to drive external relay typ for clutch bypass, not used

H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) . . . (-) Hood Pin Switch (Diode ?)

H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT . . . . Not used

H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT . . Not used

H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT . . . . . Not used

H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT . . . . . Black / Gray @ Ignition Coil

H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT . . .Not Used

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector   1999 Dodge Ram wire

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT . . . . . Dark Blue

H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) . . . . 12V Source (Red or Pink/Black @ ignition Harness)

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT . . . . . . Black / White @ Ignition harness

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) . . . Cut Yellow @ ignition harness. Connect to car side of yellow wire.

H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) . . . Cut Yellow @ ignition harness. Connect to key side of yellow wire.

H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) . . . . . Dark Blue

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)........... Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to car side of BLACK/ orange wire.

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) .......Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to key side of BLACK/ orange wire.

H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) . . . 12V Source (Red or Pink/Black @ ignition

H3/10 NC No Connection . . . . . . .

Door Lock, 3-pin connector

1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT . . . . . .

2 EMPTY NOT USED . . . . . . . . External Relay req’d (No Factory Fob)

3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT . . . . . . . External Relay req’d (No Factory Fob)

My questions: Can someone please verify my wiring? I’m not sure I’m interpreting the installation manual correctly. DEI is very confusing.  Where do I need to add relays? Do I need to add any diodes anywhere? It appears that this unit has onboard relays. Can I use any of them? Do I need an other relay for remote start?

Thanks for all your help.

Mike

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  

Noticed this straight away...

H3/6 Red goes to 12V Source (Red or Pink/Black) @ ignition 

It is the power input for H3/1 Pink Ignition output.

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 9:08 PM / IP Logged  

Also noticed this :

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)........... Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to car side of BLACK/ orange wire.
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) .......Cut BLACK/ orange @ ignition harness. Connect to key side of BLACK/ orange wire.

Not sure what you're doing here but typically H3/8 is not used.  H3/7 should be

connected to the un-cut BLACK/ Orange wire and the programming set to ACC2
( Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2 ). 

Probably want to test the BLACK/ Orange and BLACK/ White ignition wires.

DEI has them both listed as Accessory wires while Bulldog shows them
as you listed.

Cutting the wires and using heat shrink tube just to avoid using black tape is

not advisable.  If the connection was close to a connector, you could de-pin the
wire, make the solder connection, apply heat shrink tube and re-insert the pin.
However, a quality black tape, like Scotch Super 33+, properly applied is the
easiest way to go.

Soldering is fun!
uf-engineer 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 9:24 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you for the help. See anything else. It looks like I'm going to need a relay for the dome light H2/7 and the door actuators.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 10:09 PM / IP Logged  

No sure if dome light supervision is necessary.  Does the truck currently

have Factory Remote Keyless Entry?  Is yes, does the dome light come on with
an Unlock?  If it does you shouldn't need that connection.

Might be easiest to use a DEI 451M module for the door locks.  Nice, compact

package w/relays and fuse for under $10.  Here is a link to the 451M install
guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726

Didn't notice anything else in your wire connection list.  1999 dodge ram viper 5704 -- posted image.

Soldering is fun!
uf-engineer 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 27, 2012 at 6:18 AM / IP Logged  
The car does not have keyless entry or dome light delay but does have electric door locks.
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,589
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: July 27, 2012 at 7:09 AM / IP Logged  

I did my brothers Ram Pick-up a cople of years ago. his has power locks, but not keyless entry. Should be a type "C" lock system.

Go to the downloads section and look for Door Locks DF 1041. It will explain how to test for the wires and how to connect them to you Remote Start system. It will give you keyless entry then. 

I used two relays, was a bit confusing, I blew a fuse on the first try but did get it to work.  A dei 451m Relay is less work than two relays.

Do a search on 99 dodge ram, might find other info here on the lock system.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122430&KW=smokeman1

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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uf-engineer 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 27, 2012 at 1:58 PM / IP Logged  

Smoke, thanks for the info.

Question: Where do I mount the control module? The unit with two antennas. Can I hide it or does it have to be exposed to transmit? Thanks

smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,589
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: July 27, 2012 at 4:44 PM / IP Logged  
Most people mount it up in the center of the windshield for the best signal. I suppose it could be hidden or under the dash, but i'm sure it will cut down on the distance the signals are picked up.
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soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: July 27, 2012 at 6:22 PM / IP Logged  
i have put the last few of my antennas up under the headliner by the windshield. seems to work just fine with enough range for my tastes but my windshield is also tinted with a metal based film so im definitely not getting the total possible range. i installed my alarm after i tinted the windshield so i cant tell you what the difference in range would be.
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