04 silverado remote start

I have searched everything I can to the best of my ability and have been unable to come up with an answer to my problem. This is a Viper 5104 alarm w/ remote start. 2004 Chevrolet 2500 Duramax Diesel Initially when I tried to use the remote start it would flash at me 7 times, which meant "After performing Remote Start command - MTS not enabled" So I then when through the programing process to set it in Automatic Transmission Mode. Then it flashed at me 8 times instead of starting, that meant that the toggle switch was off, but it was on like its supposed to be. So I grounded the "Nuetral Saftey Input" wire. Then it would act appropriately and give a confirmation chirp, then the dash would only partially light up and the glow plug light would flicker. I didn't like that so I disconnected the wait to start wire and changed the programming to a 15second delay. Still no start and the instrument cluster does not fully light up like the truck has full/complete power. Here is how I have the remote start harness wired in: H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Pink Wire @ Ignition Harness H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)Did not hook this up H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUTOrange Wire @ Ignition Harness H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)Yellow Wire (cut in half) to starter H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)Yellow Wire (cut in half) to key H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) There are 2 red 12v constants in the ignition, I hooked this to the one of them H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)Did not hook this up H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)Did not hook this up H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)Did not hook this up Then in order to power the second ignition wire I added a relay that is wired like this: 85- Pink Ignition Wire 86- Ground 30- Red Constant 12v from Ignition Harness (not the same as the one used for H3/6 above 87- White Ignition Wire Any Ideas???-Chris

Where is it grounded at. Why did you hook up second ign that way. What bypass are you using. How is that wired up.

I just found the brown wire that is a secondary accessory power. I manually gave this 12 volts after activating the remote start function and the cluster fully lights up like it supposed to. So I know that I need to add another relay to give this wire power as well (would it be a bad idea to just add it to the relay i already added for the secondary ignition wire???) After a few momments it never tries to start then eventually the locks will cycle, the alarm chirps, and the radio will come on (not all at once) What am I doing wrong here?-Chris

The unit is grounded to the cross beam that is mounted underneath the dash. Its raw steal and bolts to the chassis in several locations. Should be a good ground. How else are you supposed to hook up the second ignition? Thats the why I understood it to be needed to be done. I didn't get any kind of bypass. The truck doesn't have a transponder style key so I was under the impression all I needed was an interface for the door locks. So I bought a DLI-GMJ witch is a Databus Doorlock Interface made by PAC. I am by no means an alarm installer, but I am a very well to do technician and race team crew. I didn't think that this alarm stuff could be this complicated. -Chris

H3/2, 6, and 9 to Red 12 volt on vehicle.

H3/4 and 5 look ok

H3/1 to Pink Ignition 1

H3/7 to White Ignition 2

H3/3 to orange Accessory 1

Accessory 2 needs a relay from???

Does this 5104 have a 18 or 24 pin harness?  One of those wires should be a 200ma accessory to drive the relay for your accessory 2.

Link to Bulldog: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

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Has a 24pin harness. Hmmm, so you are saying i need to: hook 2, 6, & 9 all to constant 12 volt? I need to remove the relay i installed for the white second ignition and hook it to pin 7? Hook up a relay to the brown second acc. wire that is energized from the wire for acc. turn on that comes out of the 24 pin connector?-Chris

Am I going to need to get a bypass as well as the door lock module I bought?-Chris

You should have a Passkey II or III system on your truck which is part of the key cylinder not a transponder. So you will need a DEI Xpresskit XK01 (which provides data override on all GM Passlock II and Passkey3 type (J1850) immobilizer systems), or compatible bypass from Fortin or the like.

H3/7 is defaulted as Ignition 2.... H3/8 on the Heavy gauge Harness is the only wire you not use.

Out of the 24 pin harness is H2/22 Orange, this iis the wire you want to trigger a relay for your Accessory 2..It is a 200mA (-) trigger and not to be connected directly to the vehicles accessory. 

Look in the Relay Section of this site for converting a negitive to positive.    https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram8.html

As Lurch228 stated, you will need a bypass. H2/9 (-) status output will be one of the wires needed for that to work. Don't forget to do Tach Learning.

Fortain Site: https://ifar.ca/en/vehicles/chevrolet/silverado/2004/

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ok, the RED / black wire needs to be hooked to the other red 12v constant at the ignition harness. this is the input for the accessory and starter circuit, without this you are only powering the ignition wire, this is why your dash doesnt completely light up. you can keep your 2nd ignition relay wired the same way except you should change your 86 ground to the "status/ground when running" wire from the alarm so that the relay can only activate during remote start. you could also have used the flex relay to power the 2nd ignition, the RED / white determines the polarity of the pink/white and you can program this wire to operate as the ignition or accessory or starter. the pink/black wire wont be used but it is part of the flex relay circuit but it is only used when the wire being powered needs to be isolated from the vehicle during remote start. for diesels i always use a timer rather than the wait to start input, its just so much easier. the only way i would hook up the wait to start is on an old pre-95 deisel because once hey get so old the glow plug heater time can have wild differences depending on the temp and how long it has been sitting. the tach wire on the other hand is a must on most diesels because the cranking time will also vary greatly from season to season. it is also pretty important to not use just one of the red 12v constant wire to power the remote starter, you need to use both to distribute the current evenly just like it is meant to be used when you start normally with the key. if you only use one 12v feed then you risk throwing codes and having weak starts because all of the current is being pulled through a single wire.