04 Suburban Remote Start Install

So my brother bought an add on remote start kit for his truck and has enlisted me to help install it since I am the only brother who works on cars. He thought it was going to be plug and play 2004 Suburban LT 4x4. We have a Crimestopper Cool Start RS00-G5    Install Manual for use with his factory remote, and a Idatalink ADS-DLSL GM1. He wants to be able to use his Factory remote and click lock 3x to activate the start I have been reading this writeup, and its a little different since is a W2W setup https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133000 Before I start on this, I have some questions. It looks like I can connect via the Data Bus hookup from the ADS to the RS00, and the only other wire from the ADS to the RS00 would be the green ignition wire, as long as I set the RS00 to accept the ADS OFA data setting rather than the default EVO SL...is that right? I ask because it says there are 2 types, OFA and SL series protocol. It looks like ADS is usually OFA, but the name of the module he bought has SL in the name. It says it falls under the type 3 wiring diagram. I still would have to hook up the purple obd wire along with the green ignition wire. The other question I have is when I go to register the ADS module...does it need to be hooked up to the remote starter at the same time? When I am turning it to the start position to program the module, does the truck need to crank at the same time, Do I pull the starter relay or fuel pump fuse to get it program without grinding the starter for 2 seconds. If using the ADS module, do I still hook up all the wires from the RS00, or does the ADS cover that. I know I will have the wire in the Large 6 pin harness to the main ignition switch harness under the steering wheel, and the main ground wire, hood pin switch, brake switch. Will the ADS handle the horn chirp, ground out while running?, and parking lighs. RS00 Manula says the databus will handle the tach wire and not to use it. Sorry for the long post. I can handle stuff like transmission, transfer cases and general engine stuff, but the mass of wires makes me want to have all my questions answer before I tear into this weekend. I appreciate any and all help.

The ADS DLSL GM1 should be able to go D2D with your CrimeStopper add-on unit.  You will have to change the RS00-G5's

programming Option 5 to ADS.  Personally, being as this is an ADD-ON system, I would go with a W2W install and makethe few necessary connections between the ADS bypass and the G5 hardwired. 

Going D2D :  Besides the D2D harness, there will be one wire connection between the G5 and the bypass module, the

Ignition input.  This wire will go to the G5's thick Pink wire which will go to the Suburbans Pink IGN1 wire.  Only one wire to connect from the bypass to the Suburban, the Violet/White OBD2 J1850 data wire to the Violet wire at Pin 2 of the OBD2 plug.

As for the G5, you must connect all the thick wire from the 6 Pin connector.  The thick Pink/White wire default is IGN2 and

must connect to the Suburbans White IGN2 wire.  Remember that this will leave the Suburbans ACC2 un-powered duringa remote start ( Brown wire ).

On the G5's 12 Pin Plug  ( in D2D mode ) :

Yellow to Horn wire ( shown in pictorial )White set to (-) via RED / Black wire and connected to the (-) Parking Light wire ( shown in pictorial )Black to Chassis GroundRED / Black to Chassis GroundGray to kit supplied and installed hood pin switch

Purple to Brake wire ( shown in Pictorial )

The Orange, ORANGE / Black, Pink, Brown, RED / White, and Yellow/Black are not used / needed.

Now for your main issue...  The G5 is looking for three (-) Lock signals in a short time period to initiate a remote start.

The truck does not directly supply that signal, nor is it readily available.  ( I dislike add-on systems and will alwaysrecommend a one button system.  Longer range and an easier install. )  You will need a +12V mini-relay to get thingsworking.  Here is a link to the relay you are looking for : http://www./itm/1pc-100-original-Sanyou-SRD-S-112D-Mini-Relay-Power-12V-DC-/181870881499?hash=item2a58596adb:g:RYAAAOSwPTlTy3RwYou could use a regular automotive Bosch style 30/40 Amp SPDT relay, too.Relay wiring :Relay Pin 85 and 87 to Chassis Ground Relay Pin 86 to Lock Motor  gray wire   @ driver window switch, black 26 pin plug, pin 21 Relay Pin 30 to G5 Red 3 Pin plug, Green wire

I would also buy a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode and connect it to relay Pins 85 to 86 with the diodes' band towards pin 86.

The relay is used to change the Suburban's (+) Lock Motor signal to the (-) signal the G5 needs.

Soldering is fun!

Because this is a 4-door with the crazy hybrid lock system, you can also pick up the gry/blk lock wire at the BCM or the fuse block for the activate signal. This is a (-) trigger for the rear door relays, so no additional inverter relay, or going into the door for the lock motor wires is necessary. The MAIN issue I see with this system (regardless of where/how you pick up the 3X lock input) is that you can start the car with the inside door lock switches. If you know about it, this makes it too easy to steal. Strong-arm the shifter to break the shifter lock, lock 3X and start it. If you need the brake, it will shut off. No problem, lock 3X and it fires right back up. If anyone sees your brother start it this way, and wants the wheels and tires or something,........ He's making it too easy. To me, lock 3X in this vehicle is a bad idea. There's no way to isolate the RKE signal from the door switches. Kreg's recommendation to go 1-button remote is the right idea. They're about $50 online. You can use the bypass you already have.

Would there be a better system we could install that you would recommend? The main thing is he wants to be able to start the truck using his factory remotes. He would be open to a full system with remotes if they still activated the factory alarm...he just doesn't want to disable the factory alarm , or install a whole new alarm. Would that be better?

A few things to consider :

1.  The factory remotes for that vehicle are separate FOB's, not incorporated into a key / FOB assy. 

2.  The factory remotes are now a bit over ten years old.3.  The factory remotes have a fairly short range.4.  The factory alarm system is handled nicely by the ADS bypass module.  Not only does it disarm the factory alarm     but it also arms the factory alarm system with a lock command from the R/S system.

Considering all of that and the fact that a decent basic one-way system like a Compustar CS800-s, Viper 4105V, Avital

4103LX or Audiovox Prestige APS57E costs around $50 and comes with two very nice and very new remotes that provide 3 or 4 times the range of the factory remotes, it's an easy sell.

Install the new system with the ADS bypass properly, leave the Factory remotes at home and use the new remotes.  The

vehicles factory alarm system remains completely functional.  Not only do you still have panic mode but also remote startingfrom a goodly distance away.  R/S systems like the CS800-s or APS57E can go D2D with the ADS bypass module.   TheViper or Avital R/S systems would have to be W2W with your ADS solo bypass module.

As Dave pointed out, an Add-On R/S unit does compromise the vehicles security a bit, so going with a basic 4 button

R/S system ( without the 3x lock starting ) makes sense.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: A few things to consider : 1.  The factory remotes for that vehicle are separate FOB's, not incorporated into a key / FOB assy.  2.  The factory remotes are now a bit over ten years old. 3.  The factory remotes have a fairly short range. 4.  The factory alarm system is handled nicely by the ADS bypass module.  Not only does it disarm the factory alarm      but it also arms the factory alarm system with a lock command from the R/S system. Considering all of that and the fact that a decent basic one-way system like a Compustar CS800-s, Viper 4105V, Avital 4103LX or Audiovox Prestige APS57E costs around $50 and comes with two very nice and very new remotes that provide 3 or 4 times the range of the factory remotes, it's an easy sell. Install the new system with the ADS bypass properly, leave the Factory remotes at home and use the new remotes.  The vehicles factory alarm system remains completely functional.  Not only do you still have panic mode but also remote starting from a goodly distance away.  R/S systems like the CS800-s or APS57E can go D2D with the ADS bypass module.   The Viper or Avital R/S systems would have to be W2W with your ADS solo bypass module. As Dave pointed out, an Add-On R/S unit does compromise the vehicles security a bit, so going with a basic 4 button R/S system ( without the 3x lock starting ) makes sense.

He's sold...which of these would you prefer the most...do they use the D2D port, or do we need to hardwire the bypass ADS

what I meant by that was, is the hardwire or d2d method more secure, which system would you prefer?

I'm old school ( and don't mind soldering ) so I prefer W2W.  It's not more secure but it is more logical and it always

works.  If there are any issues, it is much easier to troubleshoot.

Think I would go with the remote that appeals most to the end user.  That being said I just did a 2006 Silverado with a

factory alarm using a Viper 4105V.  All W2W.  Even powered the Brown ACC2 wire with an external relay.  Double check the Suburban for "one touch starting" and built in anti-grind.  Having a BitWriter makes it easy to do programmingchanges.  Could have used a Compustar CS800-s just as easily ( as I have the OP-500 programmer, too ) but the customer liked the Viper remotes better.  Basically any quality brand properly installed will work in W2W mode.

Soldering is fun!

Since you already have the RS00-G5 unit, why wouldn't you just add the 2-way Upgrade kit. full 2way communication and will plug directly into the system that you already have.

So we bought the Compustar CS800-s and it should be here in a few days, I will post when it gets here if we have any questions. Thanks again for the help.