2003-2006 GMC Yukon Remote Start Pictorial

This is a pictorial for a DIY remote start with keyless entry on a 2003 GMC Yukon.  The 2003 - 2006 model

years are the same.

This is a popular vehicle and similar to many within GM.  Other similar vehicles include the 2003 - 2006 Chevrolet Tahoe,

Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban & GMC Sierra, 2003 - 2004 Cadillac Escalade and some others. 

There are many bypass modules available, from basic Passlock2 only to full featured modules.  While the Passlock2 is

easy to bypass with the old, reliable, relays and resistor method, the power door locks make a full featured bypass module very attractive.  The bonus features like automatic heated seat and defroster activation make the choice easier.  Popular bypass choices for the DIY'er include the DEI GMDLBP, the Fortin EVO-ALL, INT-SL and INT-SL+ and from  iDatalink the ADS DLSL GM1.   Each module has its' own strengths and weaknesses and, depending on the vehicles options, some are more appropriate than others.

These vehicles do not have "one touch starting" but do have built in anti-grind.  Some vehicles have the optional Factory

Alarm, heated seats, etc.   Originally plan was to install a Compustar CM4200 and the DEI GMDLPB bypass module, shown bench prepped below. 

While this is a system is a solid performer, due to the bypass module it would not have handled this vehicles heated

accessories, so the customer opted for the upgrade system pictured below.

The ADS DL with GM1 firmware bypass module was chosen for this install.  It handles the Passlock2, locks and Factory

Alarm ( if present ) and provides a Tach signal.  Thru Data, it turns on the heated accessories during a remote start if the engine temp is below 32 degrees.   For Alarm installs, it also provides front door status trigger.

Disassembly :

Remove the side dash fuse box cover by pulling it out at the bottom edge.  This will allow easy antenna harness routing

to the windshield.

Remove the two 7mm screws shown below and pull the lower dash panel straight away at the top.  There are two clips

along the top edge.

There is no need to remove the steering column cover.  Remove the knee brace to expose the BCM and ignition harness

by removing the four 10mm nuts indicated.

Here is a picture  of the exposed wires after the knee brace is off.

Wiring :

Below is a picture of the thick main ignition wires coming down from the steering column.  Notice they split-up with 3 wires

going to the back of the fuse box.  Plan the R/S wire routing to allow for the knee brace re-installation.  Space is limited and there is a real need for wire loom protection in this area to prevent wire chaffing against the metal knee plate.  Please remember to connect the White wire as IGN2 wire or error codes and transmission problems will occur.

Here is a photo of the BCM with the Parking Light (-) wire marked.  There is a (+) Parking Light wire, but why use it when the

(-) Parking Light wire is so convenient at the BCM.  If installing an alarm system, the two rear door triggers are found in the BCMs' Purple plug.

This is a shot of the ( optional ) Horn (-) wire at the BCM.

This is a picture of the Brake (+) in the brake pedal switch connector ( unplugged ).  Please note that this brake switch moves

with the pedal and allowances should be made when routing, connecting and securing this R/S wire.

Here is a picture of the OBD2 diagnostic connector and its' Purple Data wire at Pin 2.

There are many locations to connect the R/S Chassis Ground wire under the dash.  Firewall pass-thru for the Hood Pin is

found at the main wire harness behind the parking brake assy.  As always, use a Digital Multi Meter to locate, test and verify all vehicle wires prior to making a quality solder connection.

This style vehicle typifies many GM's from around this time period.  With Passlock2, a convenient BCM under the steering

column and the GM standard ignition wire colors of :  Red & RED / White for +12V constant, Yellow for Starter, Pink for IGN1 and White for IGN2, Orange for ACC1 and Brown for ACC2.

Soldering is fun!

Very nice!!! That's a very popular setup. Looks just like the Escalade and Silverado I did recently.

how yu wire the locks and unlocj to work with the alarm

"There are many bypass modules available, from basic Passlock2 only to full featured modules.  While the Passlock2 is

easy to bypass with the old, reliable, relays and resistor method, the power door locks make a full featured bypass module

very attractive.  The bonus features like automatic heated seat and defroster activation make the choice easier.  Popular

bypass choices for the DIY'er include the DEI GMDLBP, the Fortin EVO-ALL, INT-SL and INT-SL+ and from  iDatalink the

ADS DLSL GM1.   Each module has its' own strengths and weaknesses and, depending on the vehicles options, some are

more appropriate than others."

The easy way is using a full featured bypass module like the ones mentioned above.  ( The front doors are controlled by

a Data type signal, the rears are Type B.)  Being as you need a bypass module for the Passlock2 ignition immobilizersystem, for a few extra dollars you can get a bypass module that will do the door locks, factory alarm, heated seatsand rear defroster and supply a Tach signal and front door pin status.  For this install, all of this was handled by thebypass modules one connection to the Violet wire at Pin 2 of the OBD2 connector.

Doing everything with relays would require going into both front doors and a total of 6 relays.  Here is a link to DEI

Tech Tip 1601 :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=828    And you would still need to bypass the Passlock2 system.

Here is a link to a current, DIYer friendly, full featured bypass module, the Fortin EVO-ALL  :

https://ifar.ca/download/7691/preview.html       See Connection 3 for wiring details.Please note that the EVO-ALL firmware version must be 4.06 or LOWER.

Soldering is fun!

I have noticed ALOT of these full size GM vehicles coming back with the idatalink tach being dropped randomly. I have since begun running the tach to the white wire behind the intrument cluster on every install. Typically it is the only white wire back there, but I remember someone saying Pin A6. Do not recall if that is accurate...To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Just a heads up, be careful with those instrument clusters. It is VERY popular for the stepper motors that move the needles go bad. Definitely check the cluster during you pre-install checklist. I just replaced the 6 motors on my friends 04 Tahoe. Only the speedometer and gas were acting up, but I changed all of the motors anyway. The years affected are 02-06 Tahoe, Silverado, Yukon, Suburban... I also believe all years of the Envoy and Trailblazer too. If they are bad and you're good at soldering, the whole job takes a half hour or so. There are alot of videos on YouTube on how to change them. A easy way to make some extra money.

Good tip there flobee, even if you can not repair it, it is a good idea to check to see if they are working so you do not get blamed for breaking them. Even though the problem is so common the parts and even entire ebay companies have sprung up to repair the issue since GM will not. At least not without charging you near $1000 for an entire new old stock gauge cluster (with the same problems mind you).To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Great write-up! This has been very helpful for me in my first install. I have a question though - perhaps you can help. I have no idea where to hook in my lock controls! I hear the relay clicking (on remote start unit) when I press lock/unlock on remote... and GMDLBP is properly hooked to Astro-Start 903u unit but I don't know how to hook stater unit to the truck to control the locks... Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

Forgot.. I have an 03 Silverado 2500 Duramax Diesel

I am not familiar with your Astrostart 903U unit, but if it has the standard (-) Lock and Unlock outputs, theywould be connected to the GMDLBP's Green Lock and Blue Unlock wires.  The GMDLBP uses thesecommands from the 903U to generate signals on the Violet Data Output wire that is connected to thetrucks OBD2 connector at Pin 2.  There are no direct connections of the 903U lock wires to the truck.The relay clicking you hear when you press Lock or Unlock is probably the 903U's Parking Light relay.Soldering is fun!