Help With 1990 Accord Alarm Install

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jsquintz

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: July 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 06, 2003 at 1:33 AM / IP Logged

I am installing a StingPro DX-710 alarm ( http://www.stingpro.com/alarm.html) in a 1990 Accord EX. I believe this is an off brand but it is basically a fully featured remote start alarm. Anyway...i have two main problems.

1. When arming and disarming the front parking lights, rear brake lights, and interior dash illumination lights flash as they should. My problem is that when I start the car and turn the parking lights on nothing happens. The dash doesn't illuminate either. The turn signals which use the same lights as the parking lights still work though as well as the brake lights. Also when i turn the lights into the on position the headlights go on but still not the parking lights or the interior dash lights. It is just a single wire going from the alarm to the light wiring and i cannot figure out why such a thing would happen. I would REALLY appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.

2. First off I will describe the remote start relay i am having problems with (Hope this makes sense!) There is a 6 position connector that plugs into my alarm I will describe one by one.

Pin 1 - Red wire going to 30A fuse that connects to 12V+ Power

Pin 2 - ORANGE / White wire going to position 96 on a relay

Pin 3 - RED / White wire going to accessory position on ignition harness

Pin 4 - Black wire going to a ground

Pin 5 - GREEN / WHITE doubled to another GREEN / WHITE One going to position 85 on relay the other going to on position on ignition harness

Pin 6 - Yellow/White going to "Start Motor" as it is described in the manual that came with my alarm

Position 30 - Green Wire Off relay going to "Start" as described in manual that came with my alarm

Position 87 - Green Wite Off relay also going to "Start Motor" as it is described in the manual

I assumed that "Start Motor" was Starter 2 (WHITE/ Black on my car) and "Start" was the Ignition position(BLACK / YELLOW on my car) and connected the GREEN / WHITE that was supposed to go to the "ON" position to the Starter 1 position(BLACK/ White on my car) I also connected the Red from the harness to the battery and the Black to the ground as well as connecting the RED / White wire to the Accessory position(Yellow on my car)

My problem is that when i put the key in the on position and put in the clutch it cranks the motor and starts. (it idles about 1000 rpm's higher too but i think thats just because i haven't taught it the RPM's yet) I thought I was supposed to be able to start the car normally even with remote start hooked up. If anyone could tell me if i have the wrong wire colors or how i hooked this up wrong i would really appreciate it. Thank You

....I will try to post a picture of the wiring diagram in the next day or so here i just don't have easy access to a digital camera or scanner today.

jsquintz

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: July 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 06, 2003 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged

Here is the diagram of the relay to help you understand what I am talking about.

Help With 1990 Accord Alarm Install -- posted image.

Velocity Motors

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Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: July 06, 2003 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged

| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |

Notes:

*1 The station wagon uses GREEN / WHITE for lock and yellow/white for unlock. These wires are found either in the drivers door harness or under the rear seat. *2 Locate the large harness in the lower below the carpet in the drivers kick panel. Near the foot rest you will notice a piece of blue tape attached to the harness itself. Reach around to the underside of the blue tape to locate a 2 pin gray plug with the lock and unlock wires attached to the plug. *3 High-current ground. Use a relay when interfacing with this circuit.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

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jsquintz

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: July 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 06, 2003 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for the help but I still have 6 wires on the alarm and only 5 on the ignition switch. Also I am still confused about the whole Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 thing.

HondaTypeSE

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: July 06, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 07, 2003 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged

are u installing a remote starter on a manual car. You can do that but you need to bypass the clutch sensor switch( behind the pedal). I think that your system is made for an automatic car. I also think auto start on a manual car is bad cause if u left it in gear it will jump.

jsquintz

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Joined: July 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 07, 2003 at 4:43 PM / IP Logged

I am installing it on a manual but it does have protection so the e-brake has to be on for the remote start to work and when i set the RPM's i can set them low enough so the car will still start but not take off if i leave it in gear.

Is there a way to bypass the clutch sensor switch only when using the remote start and not starting it by hand so that or will it always have to be on bypass mode? (in which case i might as well just turn the switch off)

Chris Luongo

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Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: July 07, 2003 at 5:46 PM / IP Logged

1. You probably accidentally shorted out the parking light wire while you were working, and blew the factory Honda fuse. Simple enough to fix.

2. I'm trying my best to follow what you're saying...but it appears that you're saying you have everything at the ignition switch hooked up just like the instructions describe..............and you also didn't mention any work you did on the clutch wiring.

Messing with the clutch is pretty simple.

There will be two switches on the clutch pedal---one is to cancel the cruise control, the other is to allow the car to start.

By simple trial and error, you can easily determine which switch enables the starter----push in just one of them at a time with a large screwdriver and see which one allows the car to start.....or unplug just one at a time, and see which way you can still start the car when you push the clutch.

Once you figure out which one enables the starter, it gets even simpler. There are two wires there, and when they touch each other, the engine will be allowed to start.

So if you just splice the wires together permanently, the car will be allowed to start at all times.

If you want the car to be able to remote start, but you still want the clutch safety switch to be operational at other times, this can be easily accomplished with a relay:

87: one of the clutch wires

30: the other clutch wire

85: fused 12 volts

86: output from the remote starter that supplies a ground while the remote start process is on

jsquintz

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: July 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 08, 2003 at 12:12 AM / IP Logged

Thanks for the FYI on the illumination lights I actually figured that one out earlier today, replaced the fuse and now it works great!

As far as the remote start goes i worked on it for about 2 hours and dont have it quite done yet but i think i figured it out now. What the initial problem was (In case it wasnt clear before) was that the engine would crank in the ACC position, start in the ON position, yet when in the ON position it would never stop grinding the starter. I think my problem was a bad wiring schematic. I got a few online but my Haynes manual seems to think differently. I played around with this today and think i have found the right connections but I still have to hook up a sensor wire to my e-brake for the remote start to work. (e-brake has to be on for car to remote start)

New Question - Neutral Safety Wire and E-Brake Sensor with Remote Start

Does anyone know about the "neutral safety wire" It was in the wiring schematic for my car on this website. I was wondering if it was a negative or positive connection. I am assuming negative, in which case I am planning to splice it into my e-brake sensor wire. If these are both negative connections a trip on either would disable the remote start correct? So then theoretically if the car was not in neutral or the e-brake was not on it would trip that sensor and it wouldn't remote start. Right? Someone let me know if this sounds like correct reasoning.

jsquintz

Member - Posts: 10

Joined: July 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: July 08, 2003 at 10:39 PM / IP Logged

I figured out the remote start today the problem was a very unexpected one though. on the remote start relay that came with my alarm the connections were in 85, 86, 87a, and 30. My problem was the car cranking in the ON position. I figured out that the 87a (Normally open) connection was making the circut connect when it was not supposed to. i actually had to go buy another relay with connections 85, 86, 87, and 30 so instead of 87a (normailly open) it had a 87 (normally closed) connection that only opened when remote start was activated.

Do I need a relay for my e-brake connection (has to be +) or is the connection to the e-brake on an accord negative

As far as bypassing the clutch circut goes do I have to use a ground that is only active when the clutch is engaged? My alarm uses a common ground and power connection for everythinh. Will that be a problem?

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: July 09, 2003 at 5:58 PM / IP Logged

That's very odd that the car would do unusual things like that when you're turning the key. Even if you got all the remote start connections completely wrong, the car ought to still operate properly when you use the key. Are you sure you aren't jumping any of the factory wires together?

And the typical (normally-closed type) starter kill lacks a connection at pin 87. Something is probably wrong if you found a need to get something different.

I have no idea if the Honda parking brake will be negative or positive, so you'll have to test. It's only six screws down the sides of the center console, and it'll slide right back and you'll have easy access.

I'm not sure what you mean by a ground that's active only when the clutch is engaged. Use one of the two methods I list above and it will work.

Typically, standard-shift cars lack a neutral-safety wire. If they did, installing remote starts would be far easier and safer, that's for sure!

Anyway, though, I'm not familiar with the unit you're using, but that neutral safety wire probably needs to see a ground in order for the remote start to operate. Or, maybe when you program the unit for manual-transmission mode, it ignores the neutral-safety wire altogether. In any event, you won't hurt anything by just grounding it.

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