Programming ProStart remote

I just had the Prostart remote car starter (last years model, with the fancy display on the remote) professionally installed. The service guy gave me the option of programming the door locks and trunk into the remote for an extra $75. I declined, stating that I should be able to do that myself. Maybe I should have chosen otherwise. The remote does successfully start and stop the car. But I can't figure out how to program in the doors and trunk. The instructions give no directions on how to program in the door locks and trunk into the remote. Also, in the instructions, it states to change the time, I need to press and hold the "F" (function) key until the remote beeps twice, then use other buttons to change values. It only beeps once, and I am not able to change the time or alarm time. Would the installer have conviniently failed to install a wire for the doors and trunk, or is this just a programming issue? I doubt the function key problem would be related to a missing wire though. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

In case it helps, it's installed in a 98 Grand Prix.

"I just had the Prostart remote car starter (last years model, with the fancy display on the remote) professionally installed. The service guy gave me the option of programming the door locks and trunk into the remote for an extra $75. I declined, stating that I should be able to do that myself. Maybe I should have chosen otherwise." I am sure you will make better decesion from this point on. It's alot more that $75 worth of your inconvience if you try to do it yourself at this point. "Would the installer have conviniently failed to install a wire for the doors and trunk, or is this just a programming issue? I doubt the function key problem would be related to a missing wire though." If you declined the option, the connection will not be done. Period. Programming is only part of the solution to make the doorlock and trunk function work. If there are no connetion done it will never work regardless of the programming function. Further more, depending on the installer, some will have these wire tape up or remove to advoid any shorting, while other will save the connection for future (change of mind) request. Expect to pay twice the amount this time around when you request for them. Don't be surprise to be turn away from this kind of job from another installer. Not too many installer like to follow up with someone elses work unless the $$$$ justify the request, so you are better of to look for the guy who install it for you. Let me know if you want further details and explanation of the reasons why these jobs get turn away. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

You may find this useful. FYI - If you decide to try it out yourself. DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - PONTIAC / GRAND PRIX / 1998 / Remote Start 12volts red & RED / white   +   ignition harness Starter yellow   +   ignition harness Second Starter N/A        Ignition pink   +   ignition harness Second Ignition white   +   ignition harness Third Ignition N/A        Accessory orange   +   ignition harness Second Accessory brown   +   ignition harness Notes: Not required for remote start. Keysense lt. green   -   ignition harness Power Lock lt. blue   -   driver kick panel Power Unlock white   -   driver kick panel Lock Motor           Unlock Motor           Parking Lights+ brown      headlight switch Parking Lights-           Hazards           Turn Signal(L)           Turn Signal(R)           Reverse Light           Door Trigger tan & dk. blue   -      Notes: The tan is located in the drivers kick and catches only the drivers door. The dark/blue is located in the passenger kick panel and catches all other doors, must diode isolate these wires. Dome Supervision use door trigger        Trunk/Hatch Pin RED / black   -   under rear deck Hood Pin           Trunk/Hatch Release BLACK/ white   +   trunk release switch Notes: On vehicles with keyless entry, can also use brown (-) at the trunk release relay to the left of the steering column. Power Sliding Door           Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock   -   driver kick panel Notes: The door trigger must be active to allow the factory alarm to arm. Factory Alarm Disarm ORANGE / black   -   DKP 32 pin plug pin 5 Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm        Tachometer white   ac   pin 8, conn. 2 @ PCM Notes: The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is in the air cleaner assembly. Wait to start           Brake Wire white   +   brake pedal switch Parking Brake           Horn Trigger black   -   steering column Memory Seat 1           Memory Seat 2           Memory Seat 3           Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A Notes: Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available        This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

I kept the manuals and such afterwards. There were two "extra" wires left over. I suppose I could take a look, and see if there are any blatently obvious places for them to go. One of the wires has, what looks like, and antenna connector. Although, the antenna is connected. Perhaps in a week or two, I'll take it back to where it was installed. The guy did say the installation was guarenteed for life. He just gave me the option for "programming" the remote with the doors/trunk. He didn't say anything about also installing that feature.

Thanks for all the info! I have decided to just leave the remote beside the bed, and just use it to start the car in the morning. I can keep the manufacturers remote for the doors. But, now I've noticed a new problem. Since the Prostart was installed, I have had to get a jump start three times due to a dead battery (obviously). Would the dead battery be due to the installer being an idiot? Or, would it just be an old battery that needs to be replaced, and the extra drain from the prostart killed it? We have had the car since 2001, and the battery has not been replaced in that time. I would expect it's unlikely that the battery had been replaced in the three years prior to that either. An odd thing, one of the times I needed a jump, I drove the car about 20km. Stopped at a gas station, and couldn't get it started again. The car was running for about a half hour before that (warm up and driving time).

A draw test needs to be done on your car with a amp meter to determine if you have excessive draw or not.If there is a excessive draw start by dis-connecting components or fuses one at time until you have the proper reading.