viper 3000 in a volvo 240 me

I have a 1983 Volvo 245 Wagon that I am adding a Viper 3000 alarm system 

to. However, I am a bit stumped by the Vipers' door lock harness wire connections to the Volvo's factory central locking system.I would prefer to retain the current functionality. That is, the car can be unlocked by key (in the driver's door lock), or by lock plunger (inside the car). But, I am willing to forgo this functionality if it becomes a problem.Below are pictures of the PDF files from the Viper's manual and the Volvo factory manual. The Viper's page shows the connection for the door lock harness. The other pictures show central locking system for the 240 series.

The picture below shows an unmodified picture of the central locking system in the 240 series. The dark lines indicate an always-on 12 volt signal, while the "white" lines show inactive lines (unless a switch is activated)  " IDEA 1 Please notice I had to add an actuator to the driver's door (line J from the legend) in order to have the driver's door open with the remote entry key fob.This photo shows the input lines both the unlock (D) and lock (E) relays have been cut. The following connections have been made from the Viper's door lock harness:

H2/B is connected to the output of key switch and the door switch

H2/C is connected to the input of the unlock relayH2/D is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panelH2/E is connected to the output of key switch and the door switchH2/F is connected to the input of the lock relayH2/G is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel

An actuator (or motor) is connected in parallel with the rest of the 

actuators (for the driver's door).

My only fear for this setup is that the existing system will not function

via the key switch or the door switch (since it is effectively disconnected from the system unless the key fob is pressed)

" IDEA 2  

Please notice I had to add an actuator to the driver's door (line J  from the legend) in order to have the driver's door open with the remote  entry key fob.

This photo shows the input lines both the unlock (blue wire) and lock

(yellow wire) connections have been cut. The following connections have been made from the Viper's door lock harness:

H2/B is connected to the blue wire that leads to the output of unlock

relayH2/C is connected to the blue wire that leads to the added actuatorH2/D is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panelH2/E is connected to the yellow wire that leads to the output of the lock relay H2/F is connected to the yellow wire that leads to the added actuatorH2/G is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel.

My fear for this type of connection is that the relays onboard the Viper

will not funcion unless either the key switch or the door switch is activated (completing the circuit and providing a trigger for the Viper's onboard relays

Idea 3

Please notice I had to add an actuator to the driver's door (line J 

from the legend) in order to have the driver's door open with the remote entry key fob

This photo shows the input lines to the added motor connected directly 

 to the Viper's door lock harness. The following connections have been made from the Viper's door lock harness

H2/B is connected to the green wire that connects the door/key switch

to the unlock relayH2/C is connected to the blue wire of the added actuatorH2/D is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panelH2/E is connected to the red wire that is connects the door/key switch to the lock relayH2/F is connected to the yellow wire of the added actuatorH2/G is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel

An actuator (or motor) is independant of the rest of the actuators.

I think this one works the best because I have connected H2/B and H2/E

to wires that are always "hot". The actuator should fire when the key fob is pressed popping actuator J (which should cause the rest of the central locking system to unlock the rest of the doors). Popping  actuator J is like using the key or door switches (in theory).

 

Please let me know if any ideas will work, or provide some other ways to connect the Viper's door lock harness to my Volvo's central locking system.

Thank you very much for your time!

As you have already stated, your Volvo has central locking, meaning when you lock or unlock the driver's door the remaining doors do the same. You do not hook up any of the Viper's wires to the Volvo's door locks, just to your aftermarket actuator. Adding an actuator to the driver's door will not stop the key from manually opening the lock so long as it is installed properly. To wire your actuator you would follow the diagram listed on page this page. Each pin of your door lock harness matches a pin in the diagram listed.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

You should have asked earlier, plan 2:- Purple and purple black, ground. White /black  and BROWN / black don't use.Green /black to terminal 85 on lock relay, blue/black to terminal 85 in unlock relay, join don't cut, that's it. No interferance with existing system. You've already wired your door actuator correctly from the motor outputs of the relays, this is exactly how we did it all those years ago.

Twelvoltz wrote: As you have already stated, your Volvo has central locking, meaning when you lock or unlock the driver's door the remaining doors do the same. You do not hook up any of the Viper's wires to the Volvo's door locks, just to your aftermarket actuator. Adding an actuator to the driver's door will not stop the key from manually opening the lock so long as it is installed properly. To wire your actuator you would follow the diagram listed on page this page. Each pin of your door lock harness matches a pin in the diagram listed.

I want to make sure I understand your advice. I'm going to use my understanding of the Viper's Door Lock Harness Wire Connection Guide and the Actuators/Reverse Polarity guide to help me understand your suggested connections. H2/B is connected #87a to ground H2/C is connected #30 to the unlock blue wire on the actuator H2/D is connected #87 to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel H2/E is connected #87a to ground H2/F is connected #30 to the lock yellow wire on the actuator H2/G is connected #87 to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel Keep in mind, I am using a Volvo factory actuator that bolts right in to the driver's door (no fabbing necessary). This actuator uses the same color coding as the rest of the actuators in the system. I'm making a big assumption here. I'm assuming pins 85 and 86 of the Viper's onboard relay system are connected to there respective connections (according the the Actuators/Reverse Polarity diagram on this site. Thanks again for your help.

I am not familiar with a Volvo factory actuator, but if it is a simple 2-wire actuator the diagram you have is correct. 85 and 86 are indeed controlled internally on your system. Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

First of all, I want to thank both of you (Twelvoltz and howie ll) for your help with my alarm system. I actually tried both styles. Twelvoltz version worked great except the Volvo factory actuator I used was not powerful enough to pop the remaining passenger doors. I'm sure this setup would work much better if I purchased a more powerful actuator, but I need to stay on budget. So, then I tried howie ll's method. It worked even better because all of actuators were firing at the same time. YAY, all four doors unlock remotely! You guys are an asset to The12volt.com. It's people like you that keep me coming back to site every now and again. Thank you very much!