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are my connections good for big 3


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rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 28, 2009 at 10:09 AM / IP Logged  

Hey guys I just want to make sure these connections for the Big 3 are good connects in my ford F150.

The first connect showing is from my battery (+)

are my connections good for big 3 -- posted image.

To Altenator (+)

are my connections good for big 3 -- posted image.

From Engine Block Ground (Between the 2 black tubes)

 

are my connections good for big 3 -- posted image.

to Firewall 

are my connections good for big 3 -- posted image.

And from Fire wall to Battery (-) (appx. 9 inches Inches away from the battery (-) terminal as shown below)

are my connections good for big 3 -- posted image.

My main question is, is the engine block to the Firewall Okay? Im not sure if this is considered a chassy I was never big on maintenence

And is that Engine Block ground Accurate enough (Picture 3)?

Also How do I get that cap off of the Alt (+)? It doesn't seem to budge.

thanks alot

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rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 28, 2009 at 10:11 AM / IP Logged  

Ford F150

2006

XLT

4.6L

Extended Cab

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rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 28, 2009 at 10:18 AM / IP Logged  

rfhvhtoo wrote:
I was never big on maintenence

I meant mechanics. its early are my connections good for big 3 -- posted image.

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aznboi3644 
Gold - Posts: 2,600
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 01, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 28, 2009 at 10:29 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah those connections are PERFECT since we can't even see the battery and alternator connections...check the voltage and resistance of each location...you'll know if its a good connections or not.
Custom Enclosure Design
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 28, 2009 at 1:47 PM / IP Logged  

aznboi3644 wrote:
Yeah those connections are PERFECT since we can't even see the battery and alternator connections...check the voltage and resistance of each location...you'll know if its a good connections or not.

Im asking about the LOCATION of the connections not the Specific details in the way Im crimping them.

Should the resistance be consistant throughout the wiring? or is there a approximate number i should be trying to obtain. 

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Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: April 28, 2009 at 9:57 PM / IP Logged  
It should be as close to 0 as possible in resistance. Locations can only be good if metered with a DMM.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 29, 2009 at 4:35 AM / IP Logged  

alright then yeah getting as close to absolute zero as possible is the way. But can someone tell me if those locations are good?

I've seen many trucks with the engine block to chassis going under the motor. Thats why im questioning this.

Can I just Ground the engine block to the Firewall (Which is the same place my Batter (-) is grounded to?

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Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: April 29, 2009 at 8:10 AM / IP Logged  

"Locations can only be good if metered with a DMM."

Sometimes factory grounds are not that great. That is why we're telling you to use a meter to determine if the locations that you chose are good. We can't tell this from pictures that you posted. Routing the wires under, over or around the engine is irrevelant in this case, just make sure that the resistance is as close to 0 as possible,regardless of location.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
rfhvhtoo 
Copper - Posts: 238
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 29, 2009 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  

alright I kinda made out my answer from what you guys are saying. I was looking more for the "yes the firewall is also grounded to/with the chassis so it is ok to ground your engine block to to firewall"

because if i was saying i was going to ground my engine block  to my tires you would say "no that is not a good location because its not grounded to anything on the vehicle" but you wouldn't tell me to measure it with a DMM.

But since you haven't said Dont ground to the firewall I'll suspect it to be a relevant place

Thanks alot

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kenwood_nut 
Stock Boy - Posts: 227
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Joined: April 10, 2009
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: May 04, 2009 at 9:38 PM / IP Logged  

Okay, I'll say it...

Don't ground to the firewall.

Why? Besides a small ground strap from the engine, how many other grounds have you seen on a car's firewill?  None?  Just what I thought.  I've been an auto mechanic for about as long as I've messed with car audio (not full time, but have worked in several shops over the years) and I've never seen anything grounded to the firewall.  The engine block is always grounded to the frame.  Why?  Because the body sits on rubber dampers that you can't see.  And so does the engine, in the rubber mounts.  The battery is always grounded to the engine, but the engine needs to always be grounded to the frame or you'll just be defeating the point.  If you did this, you would actually end up grounding the battery to the firewall too, because if it's not grounded to the engine and the engine is not grounded to the frame, you'll get a lose ground.  It IS okay to ground something to the firewall, but I just wouldn't make it the battery OR the engine unless you also have a ground strap/cable going to the frame.

I'm not claiming to be a car audio expert, but I can honestly say I've been involved in auto mechanics since I was a teen.  So I'm much more familiar with ground under the hood than many other car audio related questions or topics.

Hope this helps.

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