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altenator problem issue


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deeryders 
Copper - Posts: 97
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 2:59 PM / IP Logged  
I have a 2009 Altima 3,5 S.E 4 door. I have an Xs Power Battery 5100R in the front and in the trunk I have a Stinger SP1000 in the back. I have two amps Logic4000D pushing 1 12" W7 and a Logic1004 Pushing 6 Whip Audios 6.5's and 2 Soundstream tweeters all ran with rockfor true 4 ga. wire. Yesterday my altenator went on me. I bought back a brandnew one and got it put in. It pushes 130 amps. I went around to a couple of places and one place said I should put a capacitor in. Another place said that i should upgrade my wires to 0 Gauge reground the front battery and altenator ground with 0 gauge aswell. another place told me to put another battery in the trunk. I really do not want to run the back battery to the altenator nor do i want to use those relay devices. what do you guys suggest I do. I am leaning towards upgrading the wires. the audio guy told me I am drawing to much current through a small wire and it stresed my altenator out. What you think i should do? thanks guys.
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oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 12:56 AM / IP Logged  
I fail to see how REDUCING the load "stresses the alternator (...out)"!! Too small means higher load resistance and hence LOWER current.
Shorts from melting too small wires to GND are a different issue, but reasonable** alternators should handle that, though - warning! - the issue of an exploding battery should be of concern!
{**reasonable - eg, OEM; re-wound and physically small high-current alternators and Bosch alternator power rectifiers of the 1980s-1990s do not apply.}
An{other} exception includes 2- & 3-wire regulated alternators that use a remote Sense to the battery +12V terminal,   
But BIGGER WIRES - aka The BIG three or 4 are well worthwhile to prevent destructive failure (eg, thru loss of grounds) as well as improve power to the loads.
Oh wait! Traditionally that usually increased the alternator's current - and that means more stress on the alternator... altenator problem issue -- posted image. altenator problem issue -- posted image.
It's the loads that suffer from too-small wiring.
The battery and alternator don't care...
but again, any low battery voltage includes hazards!.
racerjames76 
Silver - Posts: 581
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2008
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 9:37 AM / IP Logged  
You need to consider that the alternator is not producing 130 amps at idle where you spend alot of time driving around in a city. You need to know the amp draw of your entire system, including any added batteries, amps, etc add them together and see if it is  more than what the alternator puts out at idle. If so, that may be your culprit.
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*
deeryders 
Copper - Posts: 97
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged  
Well that makes sense .. I had to remove most of my fuses and replace the fuse from front battery to back battery with a 500 Amp so that my amps would not cut out. If it helps at all my amps do run hot. I know my interior amp runs hot because I put too much of a load on them but recently my bass amp has been running hot too. It could be just the weather though. I just do not want to run into this again. I was thinking of running the zero gauge from battery to battery, zero gauge the ground on the front an back battery and see if i can reground the alternator as well with zero gauge and leave all my amp wires 4 gauge. Someone suggested high output alternator like a 230 amps but I do not want to run the risk of exploding batteries and I do not have that kind of money. How would I find the amp draw of my entire system? Is it even worth upgrading that one wire and grounds? Honestly this was very frustrating I just do not want to happen again.
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racerjames76 
Silver - Posts: 581
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2008
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 12:21 PM / IP Logged  

Definitely do the wiring upgrades. Think about it like this: Would you try and run multiple showers/sinks/commodes off of one 1/2" copper line? All running at the same time. Noway. Do the wiring upgrade.

Keep in mind the alternator is still the source of power while the engine is running, so if it is not supplying enough to meet demand it can damage the internals. A proper upgraded alternator for your car will still have the same internal regulated output, so while it CAN put out more power when needed, it will not OVER power anything when the power is not being called for. More than likely it will give you a much higher at idle output regardless of how much bigger the maximum output is. A good company will list these numbers for you.

To find your system load you need to know how many amps the batteries pull at full discharge, added to the total maximum amp rating of each electrical device (amps radio etc) added to what the car itself needs to operate the basics (ignition/hvac/lights etc).

Owner forums may be able to help with that info. Find a dedicated forum for your car and snoop around there.

To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*
deeryders 
Copper - Posts: 97
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 3:58 PM / IP Logged  
You think I would be okay if i just run the zero gauge from battery to battery and upgrade the ground while leaving the amps ran with 4 gauge? how would i reground my battery just remove the ground that is there and run a zero gauge to the chassis? i know its simple but i tend to be unsure when things are simple. lol. thanks.
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oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
The battery ground and +12V is the trickiest as the number and size of wires is limited by the battery terminals, but suitable aftermarket terminals can be obtained.
The GND priority is usually grounding the battery- to the chassis/body.
Other grounds can then be paralelled. EG - extra chassis to engine, parallel amp to chassis, etc.
(For vehicles under warranty etc, ADDING parallel cabling should not be an issue whereas replacing standard cables may be - at least as far as the warranter or insurer is concerned (ie, they'll use it as an out).)
You mention the fuse to the 2nd battery.
You should have TWO - one at each battery (else risk battery explosion, fire etc).
The batteries should not be permanently connected together - especially if AGMs are involved. The auxiliary battery(s) should be isolated when not being charged nor used.
That is IMO best done by a relay controlled by the alternator charge-light circuit, though more expensive (and otherwise inferior) voltage sensing isolators can be used.
Ensure that your fusing NEVER EXCEEDS the rating of the cable you are protecting - eg, a 500A fuse for 4G which is only rated at ~150, or 0G (~250A). In such cases, the cable becomes the fuse! (Fire!)
Increasing your fuse size demonstrated the resistance of fuses, but that should be negligible in the overall wiring.   (If it isn't, then magnetic-trip circuit breakers are the go.)
I don't use wire gauge tables to determine my wire size. Instead I decide the desirable maximum voltage drop and work back from there using the cable resistance and length.
deeryders 
Copper - Posts: 97
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 7:51 PM / IP Logged  
So the 500 amp is to large? I will switch to the zero gauge then fuse that with a 300 amp going to the second battery. I don't have fuses from the second d battery to the amps. What was funny is that when I had a 200amp in front and from the second d battery I had 200amps to bass amp and 60 amps to my interior (I used these fuses because I looked at the fuses on the side of the amp and figured that would be the amp draw.) My bass amp kept cutting until I put the 500 in from it worked well and it started to clip again. Is it necessary to ground the alternator with zero gauge aswell?
MECP Certified
Dont Ground Out!!!
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: July 13, 2012 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged  
By my reading of wire tables, yes, a 500A fuse is too large.
You must ensure that the GND path can also carry the current.
Loss of a GND can be very destructive.
For that reason, extra (redundant) ground power cabling and paths are often used.   
The alternator to amp (chassis) GND is (usually) via the engine to chassis GND.
It should be capable of handling the max output of the alternator PLUS the starter current, though the larger of the two is usually acceptable (unless you crank whilst at high RPM with max alternator output).
Usually extra engine-chassis GND cables are added (eg, warranty issues) rather than upgrading the standard cabling.
Some ensure that one engine-chassis connection can be lost and the remaining still handle the loads (ie, redundancy).
deeryders 
Copper - Posts: 97
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 08, 2011
Location: New York, United States
Posted: July 14, 2012 at 10:58 AM / IP Logged  
I am still confused .. you think i will be okay with leaving the 4 gauge wiring to the amps and running everything else 0 gauge. I will be sure to properly fuse them this time around.
MECP Certified
Dont Ground Out!!!
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