dipole Xover 2: haemphyst, DYohn, et al?

I've got my box of goodies from PartsExpress and am getting familiar with the circuit board and where the components go. (re: my previous post)  And I see that C4 and L4 represent the tweeter, and I've followed the others and understand them.  I'm not sure, though, how to install the L-pad resistors R1 and R2 onto the board.  I think they might follow the same pattern as C4 and L4 and so I show where I think they get wired and soldered in the  PartsExpress diagram shown below.

There aren't any extra holes in the circuit board to use.  Would they use the same holes as C4 and L4 as shown?  The other thing is the by-pass cap I got to use with the 80 uF cap (electrolytic) C3.  I read enough in the caps section to think that I should add a .01 uF by-pass to that cap ( it is the highpass at 250 Hz).  Would it go in parallel with C3 as shown (uses the same holes)?  And the following is the circuit board schematic with R1 and R2 added by me.  The by-pass cap isn't added because I don't know exactly where to put it.

I showed the wrong cap for the bypass..sorry...it is supposed to be C2:

I'll connect the bypass cap at the same board points as the C2 uses.  And the R1 and R2:  do they just share the same circuit board connections  with C4 and L4?  The board holes are too small to allow more than one lead to pass through.

A bit cramped for room on this board.  These are just in place, not connected or arranged as neat as possible.  The biggest question is the placement of the L-pad resistors.  And there's one connection point shared by C2, the bypass cap, and the large coil L2.  The coil lead can go through the hole, I take it, and the cap leads can connect to the coil lead as a stacked arrangement.

How about resistors on the underside of the board for a better fit, and maybe exchanging the tweeter section with the woofer section so the coils fit better....would exchanging like that cause a problem with the circuit flow?

OK, your circuit looks good.  Should work fine and you should hit your 3-4K xover for the tweeters.  As far as using the "underside" of the PCB, electrically it is the same.  As far as swapping relative positions on the board, it also does not matter so long as your filter network sections remain as described in the original schematic.  When you "stack" components, be sure to stabalize them with glue or tie wraps etc. so they do not get moved around and either short out or break off.

While some people love them and there is certainly nothing wrong with using them, I personally do not like using these pre-made circuit boards precisely for the reasons you are finding; not enough room, confusing pre-determined layout, holes too small, etc.  I prefer to lay my crossover components out on the bench and connect them together using solder and wire (I usualy use teflon insulated 16AWG silver-over-copper hook up wire.  You get silver-over-copper by looking for a temperature rating of 200 C on the wire.)  Then when the system sounds the way I expect it to, I will insulate the appropriate sections and mount the crossover on a piece of fiber board or plywood using RTV or hot glue to keep things in place.  It ends up looking a bit more "like a project" perhaps, but it allows my feeble brain the freedom to visualize the circuit without being constrained by someone else's ideas on a PCB.  Just my 2 cents...