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2 amps install and crossover questions


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dj002 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: December 29, 2004 at 1:48 PM / IP Logged  
Just about to do an install on my 2004 Sierra ext. cab and could really use some input. If there is anything I missed or if I am doing everything completely wrong please feel free to point me in the right direction. For starters I am swapping out the stock 94 amp alternator with a 145 amp one and I will be using 4awg wire for the alt wire and battery ground wire.
The equipment is as follows,
Deck – Kenwood KDC-MP919
Amps – 2 x Kenwood KAC-7201
Front door speakers – JBL GTO606c 6.5” with tweeter and passive crossover
Rear door speakers – JBL GTO6426 4”x 6”
Subs – 2 x JBL GT100 10” in a sealed box similar to this.
Now I have no intentions on entering this in any competitions but what I am hoping for is a one time install that will work for years to come. Each amp comes with a pair of 30a fuses so a 4awg wire from the batt with a 120a ANL fuse under the hood going into a AGU fuse splitter with a pair of 60a fuses and down to a 8awg wire. Each 8awg wire is going into a 1F capacitor and then into an amp. I have yet to buy the capacitors and was wondering if a single 1F would be good for the two amps?
Now this is where the majority of my questions are… the amps can run in Tri-Mode I was wondering if it would be better to say hook amp #1 in stereo to the front doors with the bridged tri-mode going to one of the subs and amp #2 in stereo to the rear doors with the bridged going to the other sub or using one amp bridged into 2ohms and pushing both subs with the other in stereo doing both sets of door speakers?
If I do use them in tri-mode it says that I must use coils & caps on the speakers. The 6.5” come with a passive crossover so would that work or would I still need to add a cap and or coil? The 4”x6” also have a cap built onto the speaker (4.7uf) would that work? Which size coils should I use on the 10” and would they be better inside the sub box as close to the speaker as I can get it or does it really matter?
Any help you can offer would be appreciated. Happy Holidays.
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 1:07 AM / IP Logged  
Nix the stiffening capacitors.  You can add them at a later date if you want to.  I would run a mono class D amp for the subs and a four channel for the fronts/rears. The subs are each SVC 4 ohm that can be paired together, paralleled to 2 ohms.  One of the amps you have can run the fronts, and you could use deck power for the rears if the volume in the back isn't of great importance.   You're over-compicating this install that you want to last for years by using a pair of amps that are not suited for your purposes. 
wheelerdr 
Copper - Posts: 337
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 25, 2004
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 2:42 AM / IP Logged  
since you like kenwood amps i would buy a kenwood excelon kacx-811d 919 watts at 2 ohms this is a great amp
dj002 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 4:19 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the input guys,
Stevdart, after some reading and your suggestion I will wait on the caps and instead put in an optima yellow top battery and go from there. As for the amps they were a present and actually bought on boxing day (you get so much more if you wait =) so I am trying to use them the best I can. The deck was installed a few months back with the factory speakers and sounds good except for the complete lack of bass. I know a class d amp would be much better suited but they are quite pricey and I do not really want to add another large amp to the electrical system. Is using the amp in tri-mode over complicating things? Which way would be easiest on the amps (heat/power consumption)? Thanks for your help.
Wheelerdr, that amp would probably fill the void nice but right now I am more interested in hooking up what I have the best I can as opposed to adding more… lol. But give me a few months and I may be singing a different tune.
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 7:20 AM / IP Logged  

Look this info over from http://www.bcae1.com/trimodpd.htm.  The general guidelines you should follow when setting up amplifier power are:  use one amp for both subs;  allow the capability to adjust levels of volume for front-to-back speakers;  allow capability for each set of speakers to be crossed over at frequencies that you can adjust.  Although the amps were a gift, the combination of what you have to work with is not good.  You should want to have the subs running through a low pass filter, and the speakers going through a high pass filter.  When used with separate amps, you can use the filters on the amps.

The subs are each SVC 4 ohm, according to the link.  Is the enclosure a pre-made unit and pre-loaded?  If so, what do the specs tell you as far as connecting to an amp?  You have to get impedance right.  As far as power consumption, a class D for subs is more efficient than a stereo amp by about 50% and so would take less resources.  Consider swapping out one of the amps (rears would be with deck power), or both amps to use a 4-channel for the four speakers.  You asked for a one-time install.  I think your experimentations with powering tri-mode will cause you to want to change them because of your inability to adjust the system.

uthinkuknoaudio 
Silver - Posts: 760
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
I would check out JBL's four channel amps for your fronts and rears, and then get a monoblock amp by JBL for your woofers. JBL is a great company and will last you for years if you treat it right. I have had 2 10'' JBL subs powered by a BP600.1 and they have been crankin for 5 years now solid, no fluttering. JBL = good stuff and very budget.
"I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.
dj002 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 9:09 AM / IP Logged  
I think I will try using one amp in stereo to the front speakers and mono the other in parallel for the subs. I think running the back speakers off of the rear out on the deck should be good and if I am not happy with the set up I will just add a class d and use the other amp for the rears. The deck does have 3 pre-outs and lots of adjustments so that would be much more user friendly. The speaker box has not yet been built, I did get a quote but I am waiting for the speakers to show up. It will be very similar to the link provided above but built to size for the speakers I have. Any suggestions there? I have very limited room so it seems the best option.
Thanks for the link (very informative) and the heads up on tri-mode. Using the decks built in crossover would be much better suited than a system that could not be tuned without major work… I just scored some 1awg wire for the power to the amps so if in the future I add another amp I should have all the juice I need, might be a good idea to run the extra set of RCA’s to the back while I have everything opened up so a class-d install would be really easy if I decided that I needed it. Do you think a Kenwood KAC-8101D would work well?
uthinkuknoaudio 
Silver - Posts: 760
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 9:15 AM / IP Logged  
That is a good idea as well. I'm sure the HU will provide sufficient power to the rear, since your fronts are the stage of your music. I'll check up on the kenwood amp.
"I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  

dj002 wrote:
I think I will try using one amp in stereo to the front speakers and mono the other in parallel for the subs.

Check your impedance doing that.  You have two 4 ohm SVC subs, so how are you going to wire them so that you will get a 4 ohm load to bridge to your amp????  If that were a way you could go, I would have suggested that over swapping out amps.  If you want to use that amp for the subs, you will have to connect each one to a channel and run them in 4 ohm stereo

dj002 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: December 30, 2004 at 7:15 PM / IP Logged  
Stevdart, well I guess I need to be told twice sometimes... I have decided to get a d class for the subs and use the pair of amps I have for the front and rears. Do you think the Kenwood KAC-8101D amp I linked to above would work well with the setup I have? Any ideas?
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