Using 2 gauge wire in a 1/0 socket

I have seen many sockets that can adapt between 4 gauge and 8 gauge by using a small circular ring inside. I have started to use 2 gauge power wire for my big 3 and plan on using it to run back to a distribution block. Most of the accessories such as distribution blocks, ring terminals, etc. are made for 1/0, 4, 8, gauge wire. I'm having a hard time finding something specifically for 2 gauge. So my question is, how do I make my 2 gauge wire work in a 1/0 gauge socket? I know that I want maximum surface area between the wire and the socket. Therefore I cannot just screw down onto the wire. I need some sort of filler. I am thinking of making little rings like the ones found in the 4 gauge sockets. That is, unless I can find some to purchase. If I cannot, I am assuming that I should use copper. However, a lot of blocks are made out of brass. I'm not sure why, I believe that copper conducts better than brass, but brass will not oxidize as fast. Any input here would be appreciated. And if anyone knows where I could find these rings, let me know. Thanks!

If you want it to fit tight, you could solder a short section of 1/0 gauge onto the end of the 2 ga., then fit it into the socket. Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

This might be the cheap / bad solution but here it is anyway. Strip an extra amount of 2g off and double it over inside the 1/0 socket. This will fill the space and should alleviate your conductivity concerns. New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

If you are to do any of the 2 ideas posted above, follow Kfr01's idea.  By soldering on the 1/0 extension you have just added resistance with the solder, plus copper is alot better conductor.

Depends on how good you are with machining metals... Personally, I would buy a block designed for #4, then drill it out ONE STEP AT A TIME, 'till the #2 fits snugly... It won't be that many steps, BTW... I built ALL of my power distribution blocks in my system, cause I was in the same situation as you are... NOBODY builds PROPER connections anymore, AFAIAC... I have two 1" square aluminum bars with capacitors on each end, (this is the mounting points for the bars as well - also, I already HAD the caps from a previous install - back when I didn't know I didn't have to have them) (4) #4 in (two from front, and two from back), (1) #4 out (for the big amp), and (3) #8 out (for the other amps)... This was nice, because I was able to build EXACTLY what I needed and wanted, without having to settle for an "off-the-shelf" POS...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Hmmmm....interesting. I wish I still had access to a machine shop. I would use a lathe to create a 2 gauge socket with a 1/0 plug on the other end...... Another question that comes to mind: How does soldering a connector after crimping affect the current flow?

A proper crimp will not need any additional electrical help - electrically, crimping is the ABSOLUTE BEST connection you can make, when done CORRECTLY... Soldering in this case will offer additional/better mechanical strength and stability, however; a plus in the car. When referring to DC, the voltage may have be affected by a soldered connection, but not really enough to worry about. The higher the voltage, the less it would be affected by a defective solder joint, but the higher the current, the MORE it would be affected.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."