Fusable Link Question

So, here sits the 2000 Expedition with a nice phat Stinger alternator that we just bolted in + the new plethora of oversize blood vessels we call 0 gauge. So one goes the battery terminals and what is this final wire to be hooked up that is now too short. It is the main power going to the vehicle isolator. It just happens to have a fuseable link in it. We can't extend the wire and the link has now been cut out. I have no books for the vehicle to tell me if this link has a amperage value or not. It is two 12 gauge lines spliced into a 4 gauge line. The link portion is about 3" long. Now I have some new link portion here, compliments of Lordo, however it also happens to be about 12" long. Does the link need to be this long or can I chop this bad baby up and drop it back to 3" and use the same dual runs spliced into the factory 4 gauge line and a new line on the other end (to make it to the battery terminal).Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Does a Ford tech have any idea? Otherwise, couldn't you get a replaecment CABLE from Ford, cut out the chunk you need (of the proper length, obviously), and splice it back into place? Other than that, I got nothin...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

No doubt, I had already made up my mind on which way to go anyways. A nice 4 gauge line with a nice 70 amp agu fuse should do the trick. It will look nice right beside the wafer fuse holder mounted on aluminum.Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

I don't know if I would trust a an AGU fuse for this. Best bet would be an ANL or MAXI. I have seen too many AGU fuses melt where the fuse and cap meet causing an intermitten contact.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

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