Kicker S8L7 dvc 4 ohm, Kenwood 7202 amp

I have a Kicker Solobaric S8L7 dual voice coil 4 ohm sub and a Kenwood 7202 amp, wired with 4 gauge power/ground in a sealed enclosure approx .6 cubic feet.  What is the proper way to wire this?  I was told that I could only run this sub off of one channel on the amp because it would not be stable bridged.  Few questions... is this true?  If it is true, could I run 1 voicecoil off the left channel and the other voice coil off the right channel with my current sub to use the sub and amp to full potential?  If not, would the 2ohm version of the same sub be able to be bridged? 

AMP SPECS: KAC-7202

The 2 ohm DVC version of that sub would be the best to use with that amp and would make the proper power/ power-handling combination.  Series wiring would bring the impedance to 4 ohms and will get the bridged output the amp will make. 

With this 4 ohm DVC sub, yes, you can put a coil onto each channel.  But you could also wire the coils in series and bridge the 8 ohm impedance load across the channels for the same output.  The latter is preferred.

I'm handy with car repairs/upgrades but am knew at the car audio stuff.  Wiring the sub in a series I understand:

Then I can still bridge the amp across both channels?  Would this give me the 450rms/900 peak the sub and amp can output?

As applies to the 2 ohm DVC version, yes, the amp would output into a bridged 4 ohm load.  The ratings put it at 450 (or 460, as I look again) watts, which matches the power handling of the sub.  As you can see, the wiring from sub to amp is just one + and one - wire, which would be connected to the amp output terminals according to the bridging diagram on the amp.

The amp would output about 300 watts if you use the sub you now have.  Output into a bridged 8 ohm load would = the rated output 2 X 150 @ 4 ohms.

This is how it is setup at the moment per another messageboard : For that sub, which you can only have a 2 or 8-ohm load with, you'll need to hook it up to either the left or right channel, wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load. This will give it 230w RMS.

Is this correct or should I switch to your setup suggestion? 

Offtopic but I am getting frustrated with this, I bought the sub thats in the truck now and found out that it doesn't work with the amp to full potential, then I bought a used 2ohm that I was told was working but is messed up and the seller refuses to deal with me so it's in a dispute with paypal, then I bought a third sub (2ohm) and DHL lost it! 

If the above "advice" was the best way to connect it, then that's what I would have told you as well.  Although the other forum's user is not putting your gear in mortal danger with the above opinion, it doesn't make a lick of sense in any shape or form to do it that way.  Your wiring question is pure and simple basics, and if you spent a few minutes in the Basics and Car Audio sections of the Help topics found in the left column, you would find your answer.

Use this 12volt site to your benefit.  There's a lot of understandable help built into it.  And, as always, let the forum know how it turns out.  Set this sub and amp up as properly as you can, and use the search function for this forum for plenty of good info on other good setup practices.  Then post your questions on specifics related to those areas. 

Realize this:  a system that is set up well in every respect will outplay and outlast those poorly-done systems that "utilize the full potential" of their amps only.  Enjoy it until such a day comes when you can make a smart, calculated purchase on a replacement sub.

Which leads to this:  you could also just keep this sub and buy another amp.  A mono amp, being one channel instead of two, will handle the 2 ohm load produced with parallel wiring.  It could be such a thing in your future that you could use your present amp to power a lethal pair of front components, while enjoying louder output from this sub with the new mono amp.