enclosure design/vibration issues

I'm relatively new at this, but I designed my second enclosure thinking it was a design that no one had executed before, turned out I was wrong on the shared port idea. More or less I'm just looking for feedback for improvements, and if this push/pull scheme is possibly damaging to the drivers. Suprisingly enough though the setup yielded dramatic SPL results with these below average woofers, and only an A8000T powering them.(I know a majority of people think audiobahn sucks, but this specific amp has never wronged me, and always pounded whatever I put to it.) - Anyway any suggestions on ways to improve upon the design to achieve more SPL output before I carpet it, And what's going to be the cheapest way to stop the horrendous vibrations in the trunk would be greatly appreciated. I've used dynomat on the lid of the trunk to no avail, a small improvement but not enough. There must be a better way, also someone suggested dynomatting the inside of the port, is this practical? Thanks in advance, just trying to learn a bit here. I'll try and post a picture as well, also it's in a 1996 accord C27. Late, Jeremy

Ok, apparently my attempt to include the image didn't work, here's a direct link: http://www.uniksystems.com/f2/pushpull2.JPG Sorry about that.

If they are a shared chamber and port you should have them both wired the same...as in not a push pull...a push pull is for a sealed box am I right? (correct me if I'm wrong) Try mounting and wiring the subs the same and see how it sounds. Also what frequency is the port tuned to...If you want spl than tune it for spl. Dynamatting the inside of the port will not do much as long as the box is rigid enough. Brown Bread is a cheaper solution than Dynamat. You can put silicon caulk inbetween the trunk lid and trunk skeleton to help with rattling andvibrations. But more sound dampening material is probably what you need. Anyone else?

Ah, I did try this first, I've tried every config(both inverted, both forward) this one yields the most SPL which is what I'm looking for, and has a tad bit more punch to the sound, I just don't want to break the drivers if this is bad for them. I suppose sealing the outer rim of the inverted one would be a good idea as well, I haven't gotten around to that yet though, still experimenting. Thanks for the reply, I read somewhere it works in ported boxes as well, not this specific type, but nonetheless I could be wrong, I'll see if I can find that website.. JeremyJeremy

powerprecision AV

Oh, and the port is tuned to 31hz if my calculations are correct.Jeremy

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Trying to post this picture one more time... bear with me :) there we go.. I think..

Well if your looking for mainly spl than build a new enclosure specifically for spl but that is built upon the specs of the driver. You can use WinISD which is a free box building progam and mess around with numbers until you get what you want. I just noticed that the port walls are doule thickness so whoever said dynamatting the inside of the ports would yield higher spl numbers is basing that statement on pure BS. Also I noticed the speaker wire coming through the port...Why not just drill a hole in the back/side and seal it up with some caulk. Having a very good seal between drivers and box is a must if you want to get all you can out of it. 31 hz is kinda low for SPL too.

Well, this is my second attempt, so of course it's going to lack perfection, I used WinISD to the best of my abilities, along with some other calculators using the T/S params, but for all I know I completely messed up. It is extremely loud in it's current state, I cannot read street signs, etc at high volumes which is kinda annoying honestly. It almost overpowers my front stage, which consists of coaxial alpine SVS 6 1/2", 2 1" dome tweeters(factory) powered by some cheap 150RMS amp, I'd have to look at the brand. I tuned it to 31hz looking for the low response and to maintain SPL, but I think you're right it is kind of low for SPL, but I am still getting a good amount of it, heck the tuning may be higher than what I calculated, especially inverting one of the drivers causing less displacement as I designed it to have both inverted. I intend to go buy some silicone tomorrow and seal around the inverted driver, the reason the wire is running through the port is due to the fact I don't have any silicone at the moment so I don't want to drill a hole quite yet, may do that tomorrow as well. I did kinda figure the guy was BSing me, he works at this kicker shop called audio connections.. don't think I'll be going there for advice anymore. I really appreciate your advice though, you seem much more educated than the quack I talked to at that store. take it easy. Jeremy

Lol he was most likely wanting your money. When talking to a guy at a shop about a problem and the first thing he says is to buy something than he/she most likely wants your benjies. Well it's late and I gotta go to work tomorrow morning. Always enjoy helping another audio enthusiast. Peace, Dom