building a sub box

grab some plywood and nail it together...the cut some holes and it's ported....seal it with putty.

Joking of course.....I would use thick MDF..or HDF if you can find..at least 3/4'' thick. My assembly procedure of choice that has worked for me forever is elmers WOOD glue (cleans up easy with water)..apply glue to both sides and then screw together using 1 1/4 to 1 1/2'' wood sheetrock stingers..pre drill and countersink of course with MDF or it's splitsville. Seal all inside edges with clear silicone..allow to dry before mounting subs. On boxes with long parallel lengths it is best to brace..but a small box should not be nessecary to brace if built correctly. However, I prefer to allow the subs to share the same airspace so I will use a piece to brace in between the 2 subs from the baffle to the back wall.

As for airspace I will assume these are L-7's. If sealing the box the airspace called for is .88 cuft min up to 2 cu ft. max.

for vented is 1.75 cu ft. to 3.25 cu ft excluding port displacement.

IMO if you prefer "tight" bass for all around listening styles I would seal it..if you like deep bass music and higher SPL's vent it...these subs can do either fine.

When measuring for airspace take the number you get in inches and divide that by 1728 to convert to feet. So for example lets say the interior dimensions are 12'' x 12'' x 12''.    Multiply that you get 1728...divide that by 1728 you get 1. so that would be a 1 cu ft. box....simple enough.

As far as helping you out with "design" I would need more specifics unless the info I left was enough.

Take care.