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2008 hyundai santa fe se remote starter


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cvcduty 
Member - Posts: 3
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Joined: March 25, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 10:16 AM / IP Logged  

Hi guys... I am new here and not quite sure how to ask the question... so I am pasting the posting I have on the Hyundai Forum...

I just bought a 2008 Santa Fe SE and had the dealer install a remote starter for me. When I had the car delivered, I noticed that the doors would unlock when I would start the car remotely... Hmm... not a desired feature... So I asked the dealer to make it so that the doors would remain locked while the car is being remote started.
The thing is, the dealer and the shop that installed the system are claiming that the factory alarm system is preventing the doors from being kept locked... The only thing they could figure out to do was to lock the doors again after the car is remotely started. So now, when I start the car with the remote starter (by pressing the button on the key fob), all doors unlock... and the car starts. After about 3-5 seconds, doors automatically re-lock themselves... It's almost there, but still I want the doors to remain locked throughout the starting process and none of this unlocking and then re-locking stuff that they claim it's the only thing that they can program the car to do... Does this sound right to you? Do your cars (for those with remote starters intalled) do this? Is the shop and the dealer trying to pull a fast one on me? If you can give me an insight, I would appreciate it.
It's going to be driven by my wife most of the time and I would hate for her to be put in a dangerous situation by having her and the car exposed even though that's only by 3-5 seconds...
Thanks.

p.s. For reference, I have the Pursuit (Audiovox) PRO9556A Remote Start and Keyless Entry System installed in a 2008 Hyundai Santa FE SE FWD.

cvcduty 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged  

Oh... I forgot to mention... Any info regarding the correct wiring procedures to fix the above mentioned problem, I would greatly appreciate. I will be using the suggestions and intructions to ask the installer to fix my remote starter installation.

Thanks.

Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 11:28 AM / IP Logged  
There is no need whatsoever for that car to unlock before remote starting. I have done dozens of them.
It should be (and can be) corrected.
I'm not sure how technical you are, but I will try to explain it:
--Inside the driver's kick panel (by your left foot), are all the wires that come inside the car, from the driver's door.
--There's a wire that makes a ground when the key is turned in the outside of the door. This disarms the factory alarm.
--There's another wire, "unlock detection," that rests as a ground at all times when the doors are unlocked......and goes dead when the doors are locked.
--For the aftermarket system to disarm the factory alarm, and unlock the doors, the installer needs to provide TWO ground pulses on BOTH of these wires, at the SAME time.
(This duplicates turning the key twice in the driver's door.)
--The aftermarket remote starter (you didn't say what brand) has two outputs:
A. one we call "factory disarm," which makes an output before remote starting, AND when the unlock button is pressed on the remote
B. another we call "unlock," which, as you might imagine, makes an output ONLY when the unlock button is pressed on your remote.
--Your installer shouldn't be using the "factory disarm" for anything. It's not necessary.
(Hyundai vehicles automatically disarm their alarm during remote starting.)
--The installer should use two diodes, to split the unit's "unlock" output........so now he has two "unlock" outputs.
(Diodes are described in a link at the top-left of this page, if you're interested in learning about them.)
--The installer should then take the outputs from the two diodes........ connect one to the "disarm" wire in the car, and the other to the "unlock detection" in the car.
--Then, in the remote starter's programming menu, set the remote starter for "double pulse unlock."
(This, as you might guess, makes the remote starter send out two unlock pulses, every time you press the unlock button on the remote.)
When all is done, the doorlocks will make no response during remote start.
When you press "unlock" on the aftermarket remote, the car's "disarm" and "unlock detection" wires will receive the desired two pulses each, and the car will unlock.
--The installer may disconnect, or may leave in place, the feature he added to lock the car every time it remote starts.
If you always lock the car religiously, that feature isn't necessary. If you sometimes forget the car unlocked, it could be a nice feature to add a little security. Your call on that one.
cvcduty 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 25, 2008 at 11:48 AM / IP Logged  
Cool. Thanks a lot. I will contact the installer and have them correct this... 2008 hyundai santa fe se remote starter -- posted image.
techman93 
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Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 26, 2008 at 11:23 PM / IP Logged  
Chris, Is that the same as the document #1300 from DEI for the Azera door lock intergration? Where you need to run a relay to break the connection along with needing 4 diodes.
or is it
Disarm No Unlock with ign, acc, and key sense
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: March 27, 2008 at 6:22 AM / IP Logged  
techman93,
I actually helped them with that Azera diagram. I think they didn't quite understand what I said, because they have unnecessary diodes in there.
(The way they have it set up will work fine, it's just maybe 30 seconds of extra unneeded work. The second wire in their diagram already gets a ground from the dome supervision wire, and adding the unlock wire through the diode is redundant.)
On the Santa Fe, no, it's different. You don't need relays, and don't need to go into the door.
It would at first seem that you would need to pulse the (key cylinder) disarm wire, and the (rocker switch) unlock wire, but it doesn't work.
What's needed is to pulse both the (key cylinder) disarm wire, and the (gray) unlock detection wire.
The gray unlock detection wire isn't listed in the tech sheet. It's in the same plug with the doorlock wires. When the doors are unlocked, it rests as a ground. When the doors are locked, the ground goes away.
Both wires need to see a double pulse. The (rocker switch) unlock wire isn't used.
If the unit you're installing has programming options for double-pulse disarm, and double-pulse unlock...........you could connect your disarm to the car's disarm, and your unlock to the car's unlock detection wire. This would save you from having to configure diodes.
If you don't have double pulse disarm, instead just split your unlock wire with two diodes, set for double pulse unlock, and connect the two diodes to the two wires in the car.
You don't need to worry about disarm before remote start.
Keysense isn't needed either.

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