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2008 tacoma remote start wiring


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nothing13 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2004
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 1:15 PM / IP Logged  
Hello,
Since the only shop in town i trust won't do a remote start on a manual transmission (They only sell DEI) i've decided to give it a run myself. I have done one remote start on an old Mercury Topaz that couldn't have been more straight-forward, so i thought i'd try my 2008 Tacoma X-Runner. I have decided to go with either a Compustar Pro 2WSSR or a Pro 2W9000FMR unit. I think they are the same brain (CM5000) that accept the new Blade override module.
I have been researching a lot on this forum and others and I think i have the wiring figured out, just wanted to post a list with the hopes one of the experts would be so kind to point out any errors before i start tearing into my truck.
Alarm Connector 1:
Red (12v constant) to vehicle WHITE/ Blue (12v constant)
RED / White (12v constant) to vehicle WHITE/ Red (12v constant)
Violet (- when armed) prewired to Starter Kill Relay
Green and Red (Ignition) to vehicle Blue / YELLOW (Ignition 1)and prewired to starter kill relay
GREEN / WHITE (Park Lights +) to vehicle Green at fusebox
White (Accessory) to vehicle WHITE/ Green (Accessory)
Yellow / YELLOW Black (Starter kill relay) to vehicle BLACK/ White (Cut starter 1)
Black to factory ground in drivers kickpanel
2nd Ignition Relay
Pins 86/87 to Red (12v constant) from Connector 1
Pin 85 to Green - ignition 250 mA output on Connector 3
Pin 30 to vehicle BLACK/ Red (Ignition 2) at vehicle ignition harness
2nd Starter Relay (Prewired to Connector 1)
Pins 86/87 prewired to RED / White (12v constant) from Connector 1
Pin 85 to RED / Black - starter 250 mAoutput on Connector 3
Pin 30 to vehicle GREEN/ Black (Starter 2) at vehicle ignition harness
Alarm Connector #3
Blue/Black (- lock) to vehicle Violet in kickpanel
Blue (- unlock) to vehicle GREEN/ Black in kickpanel
Yellow/Black (Tach) to vehicle BLACK/ White at Diagnostic Plug
RED / White (Door input) to vehicle GREEN / WHITE near fusebox
Lt.Blue/White (Brake) to vehicle Blue at brake pedal
Lt.Blue (hand brake) to vehicle GREEN/ YELLOW at fusebox
GREEN / WHITE (- parklights) to vehicle Green at switch harness
Violet (Dome light) to vehicle Black at fusebox
I will connect the Keysense and the other 2 wires as directed for the immobilizer bypass. They directions from Firstech are very detailed.
Do I need to connect the horn output from the remote start module to my vehicle if i would rather the siren to all the chirping? (arm, disarm, etc..)
Any one with experience with both Compustar models? is the new Pro2WSSR worth they extra cost?
I think that should just about do it. Thank you very much in advance to anybody willing to take a few minutes to confirm my list.
Cheers,
Chris
nothing13 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2004
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  

i'm really looking to see if i am on the right track for the 2nd starter and 2nd ignition relays, and also wondering if i need to put diodes anywhere.  (Door locks, etc..)

Any feedback would be much appreciated. 

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,671
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged  

On your second ignition and second starter relays, are the wires you intend to connect to terminal 85 a ground output?

nothing13 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2004
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  
They are all listed as negative outputs, is that what i am looking for?
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,671
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 9:25 PM / IP Logged  
Yes all seems well there.
nothing13 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2004
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 10:50 PM / IP Logged  

Do I need diodes on the door lock/unlock wires?

jmw505 
Member - Posts: 46
Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2008
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 21, 2008 at 11:08 PM / IP Logged  
when testing the DOOR LOCK and UNLOCK wires, you must TEST these wires when turning the kEY in the DRIVERS DOOR KEY CYLINDER ONLY
POWER UNLOCK GREEN/ BLACK (TYPE B)(Requires Double Pulse)iN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, 10-Pin plug, Pin 8     
LOCK MOTOR WIRE BLUE/RED (+)IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, 12-PIN Plug, Pin 10
there is no need for diodes
nothing13 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2004
Posted: October 22, 2008 at 1:21 AM / IP Logged  
Thank you very much for your help guys.  :)
nothing13 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2004
Posted: November 09, 2008 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged  

Alright...  Did the installt today.  Went pretty smooth except for a couple things i am having trouble with.

First, I didn't even think about a clutch bypass.  Anyone know where i should be looking to tie into for that?  The install manual doesn't really say much.

Secondly I am using the Blade module for the immobilizer bypass.  It says after hooking it up all you do for programming is insert the key and wait for the green light.  I am getting nothing.  I dont even get a red light to signal that its improperly programmed like the manual states.  The place i ordered it from said he was going to download the firmware to the module for me, and i received the brain with the blade module installed in it, so i assume he did.

Long story short with the key in the ignition and my foot on the clutch it works great.  Just need a little help to figure out the last few things...

jmw505 
Member - Posts: 46
Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2008
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 09, 2008 at 11:26 PM / IP Logged  
i personaly never can get them to program i alwas use the by pass the requires a key to be in a box under the dash
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