’04 g35, viper 771xv

I want to use aux channels 5/6 on the remote to roll the windows up/down, and they supply 200mA outputs.  Is this enought to trigger the lock/unlock wires to make the windows opperate or will I need to use relays?  Wasn't sure if I needed them if I was tagging the wire at the switch.  I assume I should also diode isolate the ch 5/6 wires or is it not necessary?

For those unfamiliar with Nissan/Infinity, DirectTechs says an extended pulse/trigger on the lock wires will make the windows go up and down.

I followed Audiovox and direct techs, went to a coil pack and did not use the black, or the WHITE/ blue wire.  That only left the yellow/red wire.  I get in the car, fire it up, hold the button until the LED/parking lights come on, let go, tach should be learned.  I let the remote start do its 3 attempts to start, it goes all the way to kicking the dash lights on, but will not crank.  I run the shut down diagnostics, and it comes up with option 3, low or no RPM signal. 

Do the door triggers need to be hooked up for tach to learn properly?  I didn't think they did, but I know the weren't hooked up at the time I was trying this.  Should I maybe try an uncommon wire on a fuel injector?

What type of voltage are you getting from the wire you tapped into?

How are you bypassing the transponder, are you sure it is working?  Some vehicles will not allow the starter to crank unless it sees a valid transponder.

I am fairly certain that tach programming does not require a door being open, however simply grounding the door trigger temporarily during programming would eliminate that as being the problem.