'02 monte carlo remote start issues

I've done my best to research this topic, and though there were some promising leads, nothing I tried helped. So now I bring my issue in the form of a new topic! I'm attempting to install a Bulldog RS1100remote starter, using a T-Harness and their 791 Bypass for the Passlock II defeat. I've wired everything as noted in the manual, and probed and double checked my connections as well. The problem basically exists in that after attempting a remote start, the relays click, power out as they should, but the vehicle won't crank. In my search, it was recommended that I use a relay to power my second accessory circuit, and even after attempting that this afternoon, the car still won't crank. I am assuming that the bypass is working, as no "Security" message is flashing on an attempted startup, and the car won't crank with the key in the ignition, turned to "Run". The problem basically exists in that after attempting a remote start, the relays click, power out as they should, but the vehicle won't crank. In my search, it was recommended that I use a relay to power my second accessory circuit, and even after attempting that this afternoon, the car still won't crank. If I haven't provided enough info, please let me know and I'll do my best to post back with the necessary stuff! Thanks for taking a look and hopefully shedding some light on things.

hello-I was wondering if you have anything connected to the Brown wire at the ignition switch.  If you do, undo your connection at this wire and try it.  If it works just leave the Brown wire alone.  All you'll lose is windshield wipers while remote started.  No offense but Bulldog is not hgh quality-just drop the "dog" and add doodie

I did connect the brown power wire (secondary accessory) via a relay triggered by the primary accessory from the starter. I did that this afternoon. Previously, I didn't have it attached, and the vehicle didn't crank then either. I don't disagree that Bulldog is low-end. However, it's responding to the remote, and activating the relays as needed. I think it's a larger issue in the ignition switch or with the vehicle. With the ignition wires connected directly to 12V+, and attempting to power the crank circuit also to 12V+, it won't turn over. In all honesty, I've exhausted my knowledge, so I appreciate all feed back. Thanks!

First off, try doing a valet take-over(i.e. start the car with the key, activate the remote starter, and turn the key off). The car should stay running and all accessories(heater blower, windows, radio) should operate. If any accessories don't work, one of the wires is being powered improperly or not at all by the remote start. Also, you don't mention how your relay is connected for the brown accessory wire, but that wire cannot receive power during cranking. I do believe that the only heavy gauge wires at the switch should be:

• Red x2 - Constant 12v
• Pink - Ignition 1
• Green - Ignition 2
• Yellow - Starter
• Orange - Accessory 1
• Brown - Accessory 2

If the car does not do a proper valet take-over, then the problem is likely that one of the ignitions is not powered properly, or the tach is not programmed/connected correctly(if connected at all). If the car does a proper valet take-over, then the problem may be that the starter wire or one of the accessories is not powering properly. Another problem in this case could be the 791 bypass being connected/programmed incorrectly.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Hi, thanks for the response. I'd never heard/thought of the valet take-over, but it's a perfect way to check on things one step further! Anyway, I tried it, and the car does a proper valet take over. Also, all accessories are powered properly (HVAC, radio, wipers) during the valet take-over. Also, the relay for the brown accessory wire is wired 12V+constant comes from one of the 12V+ constant leads to the remote starter. The trigger for the relay is from the the accessory wire (there's only one) from the remote starter. I can feel it kick on after the engine attempts to crank. I checked, and there is 12V+ from both ignition wires during cranking, as well as the crank wire. In regards to the bypass, I'm following the programming instructions, but am unsure of the truth of the bypass. Do you know if placing the key in the "Run" position would but the proper resistance through the Passlock mechanism, or will it only place the proper resistance when the key is in the crank position? I know that I've tried to remote start with the key in "Run", to no avail. You are totally right on the heavy gauge wires at the switch, and I believe that I have them all accounted for at the remote starter, with the brown one wired from the relay. Again, thanks for your responses! I'm sure I'll get it figured out with all you guys' help!

IIRC the Passlock code gets sent when the key is turned to the crank position, however momentarily, and stays active until the key is turned to off. Therefore if you turn it very quickly to "crank" and release it before the car starts, and then are able to perform a successful remote start, it would suggest a problem with your bypass.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Good morning! I'm not sure I did it the correct way, though I tried several. I put the key in the run position, and then just cranked it quickly, putting it back in run before it started. I left the key in run, and attempted to remote start, with the same results: relays clicking, bypass LED lighting and then nothing. However, at one point, it seemed as though the remote starter was keeping the key from being able to crank the engine. After attempting to remote start, with the key in run, the remote starter thinks that it is running if everything is on (this starter has a tachless mode of operation). So, if I remember right, if I turned the key to "run" attempted to remote start, the start relay would click, and the the accessories would come on. At that point, I wasn't able to crank the engine with the key. However, if I turned the remote starter off, and then back on, holding the key in the crank position the whole time, the vehicle started. So, seeing this makes me think that something is indeed wrong with the bypass, assuming that while the key in the crank position, it is continually setting the appropriate Passlock resistance, and when the crank wire was powered, the car cranked on. In this case, does anyone have any idea how to troubleshoot this bypass. I read through Bulldog's Bypass FAQ to no avail, and their troubleshooting guide is rather short on info for the bypass. I will probably try to call them today and see what suggestions they have, if I can get through on the phone. If I hear anything, I'll post it back here, and in the mean time, I appreciate all the suggestions. Thanks!

I called them, and Tech Support thinks it's a bad module. I sent it in this afternoon for service, but they said it would be 2-3 weeks. I'm an impatient person by nature, so I'm wondering if there are any suggestions for a similar, compatible, inexpensive bypass. All the help and suggestions have been great. Any suggestions on the bypass? Thanks!

use the "old" relay and resistor bypass

A while back I tried a GMBP on GM vehicles and have not looked back since. No cut wires, simple one soldered wire to the purple at the OBDII plug. It has proved almost bullet proof for me. Not exactly the cheapest alternative(relay/resistor method can't be beat for price) but it's reliable and easy.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.