1993 isuzu trooper, remote start

Hi Guys, new person here. I'm trying to install a Scytek 5000RS in my father's 1993 Isuzu Trooper for Christmas. I normally do street car turbo engine and standalone ECU work, so wiring, schematics and custom circuitry aren't a big deal, but I'm not experienced with car stereo and remote start. I started the installation this past Saturday and Sunday. Here are some pictures. All the details are below, but the quick end-result was I was unable to get the car to start or to get the Scytek box to apply +12V to its Violet Starter wire. http://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperRstart/ I stopped taking pictures after running the 12AWG +12V battery wire through the firewall. I got a little busy and forgot to take pics of the brake switch wires, +12v batt voltage distribution block, ground wire, ign switch wires, harness or Scytek box. Here are scans of the wiring instructions from the Scytek manual and the factory Trooper service manual. http://kai.caltech.edu/TrooperWiring/ Just to jump back a bit, the goal for this Trooper is to just get remote start working, using as clean and reliable an installation as possible. To this end, I'm trying to tamper with as few factory wires as possible. The Scytek harness wires in Bold below are the ones I've connected. Scytek 5000RS Starter Harness (6x 12AWG Wires)

• RED 1 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery
• RED 2 (+12V) --> 30A Fuse --> +12V Battery
• BROWN (IGNITION 2) --> Not Connected
• ORANGE (ACCESSORY) --> Not Connected
• YELLOW (IGNITION) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch
• VIOLET (STARTER) --> BLACK/ White Starter Wire from Ign. Switch

Scytek 5000RS Main Harness (20x 20AWG Wires)

• GREEN / WHITE (Brake Input) --> GREEN/ YELLOW Brake Switch
• BLACK/ GRAY (Tach Input) --> Not Connected
• WHITE/ RED (Aux. 2) --> Not Connected
• BLACK/ WHITE (Dome Light Output) --> Not Connected
• YELLOW (+12 Ignition Input) --> BLACK / YELLOW Ignition Wire from Ign. Switch
• BLUE / YELLOW (Glow Plug Input) --> Not Connected
• BLUE/WHITE (Pass. Unlock Output) --> Not Connected
• BLUE/ORANGE (Ground When Running Output) --> Not Connected
• BLACK (Ground Input) --> Chassis Ground
• RED (Power) --> +12V Battery
• VIOLET (Positive Door Input) --> Not Connected
• GREEN (Negative Door Input) --> Not Connected
• WHITE/ BLACK (Hood/Trunk Pin Input) --> Not Connected
• ORANGE (Armed Output) --> Not Connected
• VIOLET/WHITE (Factory Disarm Output) --> Not Connected
• WHITE/ VIOLET (Aux. 3 / Factory Rearm Output) --> Not Connected
• BROWN (Siren Output) --> Not Connected
• GRAY (Aux. 1 Output) --> Not Connected
• WHITE (Parking Light Output) --> Not Connected
• BROWN / WHITE (Horn Output) --> Not Connected

In the manual, it says to hold button four for three seconds to start the engine. After finishing installing the above wires and putting the fuses back in, I pressed button four for three seconds and nothing happened. I took out the voltmeter and checked the +12V Battery supply coming into both the Starter and Main harness. It was good. I also checked the Brake Input line. I pressed the brake pedal, saw +12V with the brake engaged, released the brake pedal, and saw GND/0V DC with the brake released. So that's probably okay too. Next up was the hood pin wire as the manual says the remote start won't start the engine if the hood is open. I accidentally broke the hood pin switch trying to install it. The thin plastic column inside a long narrow spring broke. It looks like the hood pin switch "closes" (electrically) the harness wire to Chassis Ground when the hood mechanically opens. I taped the Hood Pin Input wire off with electrical tape and assumed this would tell the Scytek box the hood was closed. From here I guess this was probably okay too. The two Scytek Yellow wires (12AWG on Starter Harness and 20AWG on Main Harness) both didn't have voltage, but I expected that since I believe their purpose is to show +12V when the engine is starting and running only. The only other check I could think of was to see if the Scytek box was applying +12V to its VIOLET (Starter) wire when I pressed button four on the key-fob. I hooked up the multimeter between Chassis Ground and VIOLET, pressed button four for three seconds, and saw 0V DC on the multimeter. I'm pretty sure that the Scytek box is supposed to apply +12V to the VIOLET wire to power the starter motor. I'm guessing this means some more wires need to be hooked up because the Scytek box doesn't think it's currently okay to run the starter. Any ideas? After reading this forum a bit more, it sounds like I should also hook up an RPM/Tach wire once I get the box at least trying to start the car. I'll also make sure a hood switch gets hooked up once I can get the basics working. Happy Holidays, Rob

is there a wire on that alarm that is called neutral safety switch? you need to have this grounded for it to crank also when you try to remote start the car, do the electronics like the radio and instrument panel lights power up? you probably need to hook up either the 2nd ignition, accessory, or both

Looks like you haven't connected or programmed for tach either, ref the the violet starter wire, you are correct, also make sure all 3 reds are showing 12v+, I agree about the neutral safety switch, don't have Scytek here but DEI has a cable which has to be at ground such as parking brake wire on a manual or reverse light feed on an auto.

Hey, there isn't Hey soundnsecurity, thanks for the help. I took another look at the Scytek manual. There isn't a wire called a Neutral Safety Switch, but there is a wire that might be related. It's listed above, Blue/Orange --> Ground When Running.

ScytekManual wrote: Scytek 20 Pin Main Harness Pin 8 --> BLUE/ORANGE --> Ground When Running Output (-) 500mA. Connect to an optional factory security bypass module if required. Or to a clutch switch bypass relay pin #86 for manual transmissions.

I'm not sure what an optional factory security bypass module is. There are another two wires related to a car's factory security system. The Trooper has manual locks, but they are all electrically linked. Using the key in the keyhole at the driver's door unlocks all doors, and also locks all doors. There isn't a key fob though, just mechanical keys so there's no wireless control. I'm not sure if this qualifies as a factory alarm system that has to be disabled first. Any idea?

ScytekManual wrote: Scytek 20 Pin Main Harness Pin 15 --> VIOLET/WHITE --> Factory Disarm Output (-) 500mA. The Violet/White wire provides a ground output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.

ScytekManual wrote: Pin 16[ --> WHITE/ VIOLET --> Auxiliar 3 / Factory Rearm Output (-) 500mA. WHITE/ Violet wire. Auxiliar 3: Momentary output when channel is activated. Factory Rearm Output: Provides a ground output on remote start shutdown to rearm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to rearm a factory security system.

Yep, I did not hook anything up to Accessory or Ignition 2. I wanted to tap into as few wires as possible and I figured my father can manually turn on the radio once he gets in the car. The way the trooper electrical system works is that turning the ignition key to Run (not Start/Cranking) provides power to the HVAC directly and to the starter solenoid. When the key is moved to Start/Crank, the Starter relay completes the switch to the Starter solenoid and the engine cranks, but power is also simultaneously cut to the HVAC using an On-Unless-Triggered type of relay for the HVAC power. Long story short, providing power to the BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire alone should get the HVAC going while he's walking to the car. I might have misunderstood though. Are you saying I need to hook up Ignition 2 and Accessory just to get the car to start, even if I don't mind much about the radio? Doesn't sound quite right. Thanks for the help

howie ll wrote: Looks like you haven't connected or programmed for tach either, ref the the violet starter wire, you are correct, also make sure all 3 reds are showing 12v+, I agree about the neutral safety switch, don't have Scytek here but DEI has a cable which has to be at ground such as parking brake wire on a manual or reverse light feed on an auto.

Thanks Howie I checked for +12V with a voltmeter after running the +12 Battery wires and they were good. I looked through the Scytek manual again and there's a mention of a "clutch switch bypass" (see above post), but it's an Output not an Input.

joch1314 wrote: Looking at Audiovox's tech sheet, you also need to hook up Ignition 2.  Connect the brown wire from your starter harness to the BLACK/ Red wire in the ignition harness, that'll be your 2nd ignition.  You might also want to hook your orange accessory wire from the starter harness to the blue wire in the vehicle's ignition harness as well.  That should control your HVAC, and turn it on during remote start.  Definitely need to hook up the tach wire, that will be a black wire at the multi coil pack.  MAKE SURE YOU TEST YOUR WIRES FIRST, and don't just hook them up blindly to the wires I listed.  When testing for the tach wire you'll need to put your meter to Volts AC, and get a reading between 1 and 7 volts depending on the rev. of the engine.  Or you can look at all the coils and find the common color wire on each coil, then hook it up to the wire that varies from coil to coil.  Hook those wires up then try it again.  You should also have to have the alarm brain learn the tach, read the install manual and it'll show you how.

Oh, cool! I don't have an Audiovox login, but looks like a great resource. I don't quite understand why a second ignition wire is needed, but it can't hurt to try and hook it up. I'll add this to the to-do list for the next attempt. Is it necessary to power to the Blue accessory wire? I don't really need to get the radio to resume with the remote start. I just want the motor and HVAC to start. The radio seems to be powered separately from the HVAC on the Trooper factory service manual schematics. There linked to in the top of the first post. My bad on the resizing though, images are 1000px wide. Thanks for the tip on using Multimeter AC Voltage to check for the Tach signal. That will save me a nice headache. I had figured out what wire to use by the coil packs, but a friend said I might not need the Tach wire, so I left it out. I'll add it to the to-do list for the next attempt too. To-Do -------

• Hook up Tach Wire
• Hook up Scytek Brown Second Ignition Output (6 pin Starter harness) --> Trooper BLACK/ Red Wire (Ign. Switch)

So am I right that this Scytek box doesn't use a Neutral Safety Switch wire? You guys are freakin quick! Three replies within twenty minutes. What a message board! :)

el_bob wrote: So am I right that this Scytek box doesn't use a Neutral Safety Switch wire? You guys are freakin quick! Three replies within twenty minutes. What a message board! :)

i was looking at some install manuals and i think the neutral safely on your alarm is named GREEN- Parking brake input its on a 2 pin harness. try grounding this wire then try to start. it probably wont start since you dont have the tach wire hooked up but you should at least get some kind of response from the vehicle

joch1314 wrote: Doesn't look like it has a neutral/safety wire, but make sure you do hook up the hood pin input wire when you get the remote start working.  That is a must in all my installs and I'm sure many will agree with me. I'm thinking the reason for the quick replies on your post had to do with the detailed info you left with your original post.  Very informative and detailed with what you were looking for, therefore very easy for us to get you on the right track.  I know I like those types of threads, and again, so do many others on here.

I agree one-hundred percent. As someone who spends a lot of time under the hood, I am definitely going to hook up the hood pin connection once the remote start works. So, I'll try hooking up the Tach wire, getting the Scytek box to learn the Tach signal and hooking up the Ignition 2 wire. Am I missing anything? Thanks again guys Rob