viper remote start, ’04 toyota celica

The vehicle is a 2004 Toyota Celica GTS Automatic. (no factory alarm/keyless, and the directed website states that there is no immobilizer bypass required) The Alarm/RS is a DEI Viper 5701. I Have the entire security portion of the alarm wired and functional. However, the remote start is giving me trouble. When I activate the RS, the lights flash, Ignition 1 & 2 fire up, and the starter attempts to engage for a split-second. It is only enough for the starter to make one loud *Click* sound, then the whole system shuts down and the 2-way remote emits an error tone. For the sake of testing, I have turned OFF any form of engine checking (Menu 3 - Remote Start Features, Feature 2) and set the Cranking Time (Feature 3) to a solid 2 Seconds. The Flex Relay Function (Feature 8) is set to the factory default of "Ignition 2" On the wiring side, here is what I've done: Ignition 1: Viper-Pink-Wire connects to Celica-BLACK/ Orange-Wire Ignition 2: Viper-Pink/White-Wire connects to Celica-Blue/Red-wire Accessory: Viper-Orange-Wire connects to Celica-Gray-Wire Starter: Viper-Violet-Wire connects to Celica-BLACK/ White(Starter Side) Starter: Viper-Green-Wire connects to Celica-BLACK/ White(Key Side) B+12V: Viper-(Fused)Red-Wire connects to Celica-White-Wire *Note: I spliced the Viper RED / White and RED / Black into the Red wire between the fuses and the connection to factory harness to make my solder connection to the Celica's Power wire cleaner and less bulky. I have tried wiring the RED / Black (Starter & Accessory Relay Power Wire) directly to the battery to see if the load demand on the one power wire was too much. However, it made no difference and my RS behaved the same as before. I have checked all fuses, Remote Start Shut Downs (hood pin, NSS wire(grounded), RS Switch, break connection) and have found everything to be in perfect working order. Here is something interesting: When I unplug the Heavy H3 harness from the brain, everything behaves normally. The parking lights turn on, I hear the Accessory and Ignition relays click on, then accessory off, then the starter relay clicks and holds for 2 seconds, then releases and my parking lights and accessory turn on again is if it was a successful remote start. Also, if I re-connect the H3 harness but pull the RED / Black wire fuse out, I get the same results; only the Ignitions and Accessory on my car actually activate, and I hear the onboard starter relay activate for 2 seconds. A question for you: In my install book, it mentions the Pink/Black 87a leg of the H3 harness being useful for Toyota and Nissan vehicles who need ignition switch isolation. How is this useful? Why would I want to connect the N/C leg of the relay to my ignition? Is this my problem, please help me out. Of this entire hellish install this has been the only thing that has stumped me! Cliff Notes: Remote Start engages, both ignitions and the accessory fire up, and then the starter clicks once and the whole system shuts down with an error tone from the 2-way. HELP!

Thanks for a fast response. I don't have the tach wire connected. I had planned to use the virtual tach. But in the remote start programming menu I have turned off all engine checking. I believe this should cause the system to ignore all tach, virtual tach, and voltage sensing monitoring features. If I have to use a tach signal, I will use a brown wire at my gauge cluster. I metered the two ignition wires coming from the brain and they both read 12volts before and during the starter engaging. But never after, as the whole system abruptly shuts down. I don't know about the Pink/Black Ignition wire, should I be using that one instead of the Pink/White?

I just tried the isolate ign 1 with a realy trick, but it didn't work. my starter still clicks for just a second and the whole system shuts down immediately after.

Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this? I'm at the end of my rope here. I've wasted all day going over all the wires, and testing everything I can think of. Is it possible that the alarm I received could be faulty? I've done many remote starts before and none of them have ever given me trouble except this one. Any suggestions at all are greatly appreciated. If you can dream up a solution, I'll give it a try!

try connecting a tach signal, learn it, and check to be sure that ur ignition one and two wires are not reversed,

i always wire the tach it only takes a few minutes more on most vehicles

This morning I will cut open the loom covering the high current wires to triple check my solder points and ensure I don't have the 2 ignitions crossed. I will also wire in the tach and program it. I doubt it is my problem (as I have it disabled) but I'll try anything! At this point, I hope it is just a simple stupid mistake that I will catch as soon as the loom is cut away.

put on voltage sense. if you turn off engine checking but is still on tach with no tach wire hooked up it will not start. just switch to voltage sense or virtual tach and the issue should go away.