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using 611t to create a ground when armed


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phree_refill 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 9:05 AM / IP Logged  

I have 2001 silverado with a directed electronics ready remote deluxe model 23927 remote start that i installed. I recently put a bunch of aftermarket electronics in my truck and i would like to have a little more securtiy than just the door trigger wires to set off my alarm. I was looking at getting a 508D ( http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/607/607508D.PDF) field frequency alarm input to give me that added bit of security. I see in the install manual where it says that I need a "ground when armed" output wire in order to hook up the 508D though. Well, my remote starter does not have a ground when armed output on it.

It says right there in the 508D manual that if my "security system does not have a (-) ground-when-armed output, then a 611T latching relay may be used to provide one." It doesn't go into any further detail about how exactly to go about wiring up the 611T in order to create one. So thats why I have turned to you guys with your far superior knowledge about such things. using 611t to create a ground when armed -- posted image. I have racked my brain trying to think of how i can wire the 611T latching relay into my door locks to provide the (-) ground-when-armed output i need but I just can't quite get it all sorted out in my head. If anyone has any thoughts, advice, or suggestions then I would love to get your input.

howie ll 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 11:54 AM / IP Logged  
Not neccessary, just ground the black wire.
phree_refill 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 1:31 PM / IP Logged  

That would lust leave it armed constantly though would it not? I understand that when i push the unlock button on my remote, it would disarm the alarm input wire on the remote start and thus not allow the alarm to go off when the 508 sends out an alarm signal. But wouldn't the 508 still be sending out a signal to trip the alarm constanly once i was inside my truck and moving around?

Lets say i wanted to hook up a voice module as described in the 508D manual. I would for sure need the (-) ground-when-armed output wire then wouldn't I?

howie ll 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 1:51 PM / IP Logged  
OK, you didn't mention the other products did you, never seen a 611t, doesn't it come with instructions?  If not  use a double coil latching relay  You have your NC, NO and common plus 2 x pos coil and 2 x neg coil. If your locks are neg going, make the pos sides permanent (1amp fuse) and feed 1 neg coil to latch, then feed the other neg coil to unlatch. It's that simple.  The joy of a latching relay is that it doesn't draw any juice.
phree_refill 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 1:55 PM / IP Logged  
here is that 611T  ( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/611t_timed_latch_relay.pdf)  I would assume it would work for my application if the 508 referenced it.
91stt 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 3:09 PM / IP Logged  
what security system do you want to integrate the 508T with? how is the starter disable handled?
phree_refill 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  

The Ready Remote 23927 isn't really considered a security system. It is a remote start with keyless entry/ trunk release, panic, parking lights control, and basic alarm.  It is a design tech product which is owned by directed electronics. The module is set up so that the tach wire functions as an alarm input wire when tach mode is not selected. It is a negative pulse triggered wire.

The only pre-exhisting negative triggers i have in my truck is the door trigger wires. I have them diode isolated onto this alarm/tach wire. When you push the lock button on the remote it "arms" the remote starter module so that if the doors are opened by any other means than unlocking them with the remote itself then it sets the alarm off. This feature is slightly annoying because it doesn't allow me to use my key to unlock the doors without the alarm going off. Anyways, this remote starter module has no negative ground-when-armed wire.  It does have a "Factory alarm disarm" wire. The manual says it sends out a breif negative pulse just before starting to disarm the factory alarm. I did not have to hook up this wire for my truck however. Could this wire be what i'm looking for?

It has three safety features to shut the remote starter off should a theif try to steal the vehicle once it's remote started. It has a hood pin switch, a brake pedal shut off, and if the vehicle is somehow shifted out of park without the key in the ignition it also shuts it down.

23927 manual ( http://www.designtech-intl.com/pdf/manuals/23927.pdf)

howie ll 
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Posted: March 03, 2009 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged  
Use your door lock and unlock  trigger wires, sequentially to arm and disarm the 611t.  Remember to diode them together.
phree_refill 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 6:41 AM / IP Logged  

On the 611T, it has one input wire for latching and unlatching. It can recieve a positive or negative pulse. The way i understand it is that one negative pulse will latch the 611T and then another negative pulse will unlatch it. Howie, by that logic  wouldn't it be possible for me to accidentally unlatch the 611T by simply pushing the lock button on my transmitter one to many times? Or is there a certain way i can wire it in so that ONLY a pulse from the lock wire will latch it and ONLY a pulse from the unlock wire will unlatch it? Btw, i really appreciate your help.

ckeeler 
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Posted: March 04, 2009 at 10:51 AM / IP Logged  
phree_refill wrote:

On the 611T, it has one input wire for latching and unlatching. It can recieve a positive or negative pulse. The way i understand it is that one negative pulse will latch the 611T and then another negative pulse will unlatch it. Howie, by that logic  wouldn't it be possible for me to accidentally unlatch the 611T by simply pushing the lock button on my transmitter one to many times? Or is there a certain way i can wire it in so that ONLY a pulse from the lock wire will latch it and ONLY a pulse from the unlock wire will unlatch it? Btw, i really appreciate your help.

in that case what you should really do is ditch the 611T and go with Howie's original suggestion of using a dual coil latching relay.

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