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viper 1002 e36 needed


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dx90 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 30, 2009 at 7:59 AM / IP Logged  
I have finally made up my mind on what alarm I wanted and have just received my new Viper 1002 in the post. I own a BMW E36 1995 with built factory immobiliser.
How do I go about wiring my alarm up to my E36 and also have the windows roll up when alarmed please?
What colour wires connect to where?
I have a soldering iron and plenty of heat shrink sleeving for the job.
It has been explained to me before so please don't shout at me, but not for the Viper 1002 alarm. Any help with this will be appreciated.
Thanks
BMW E36 320I August build 1995
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 30, 2009 at 10:58 AM / IP Logged  
How about we cancel your last 20 posts, you email me and arrange for me to install it, better still go back to your last  set of posts and follow my instructions.
dx90 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 30, 2009 at 11:38 AM / IP Logged  
Hi, howie ll
I went with the viper 1002 come the end. When you have kids and your short on money decisions on what alarm to buy or not is hard. That is for all my posts.
The wiring you gave me for the Hornet 745T. Is it exactly the same for the Viper 1002?
In the box there is 1 white wire that splits into 2 wires with what looks like 2 diodes with heat shrink over them and no mention of what it is or what it is for. Do you know if it is wired diodes and where would I use them to?
BMW E36 320I August build 1995
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: June 30, 2009 at 1:51 PM / IP Logged  

I've had mercy on you especially after the first line, I have a daughter with 2 grandchildren, 9 and 11 with a feckless husband.

Yes is the answer to your first question.

Don't use those diodes, you move the jumper fuse to neg application (see instructions) and conect the white wire to BROWN / blue at the hazard switch.

Remove the glove box.  You will see a module in front of you with 1 black larger plug and two smaller plugs to the right. Middle plug either black or violet. These are called quadlock plugs. Take apart the middle plug. Unlock (blue/black) goes to pin 17 (blue/red) lock (GREEN/ black) goes to the vacant space in pin 4 opposite pin 17. Bare the end and "shove" in, then tape or cable tie to secure. Make sure no wire whiskers touch other pins. If there was a previous factory (dealer fit Gemini) in the vehicle cut the originals and solder and sleeve to yours.

A trick... take a diode 1N4004 etc from the GREEN/ black to the blue/black with the band towards blue /black. When finished set the alarm to total (or comfort) close. This will give you autolock on ignition (default) and dead lock and window (+roof if factory) close on arming.

BROWN / black and WHITE/ black ignore, purple and PURPLE / black via 5amp fuse to 12v+.

Look at loom going across the bulkhead from the driver's side. Light green is ign, (to the alarm's yellow) light/GREEN/ thin black is starter, if you decide to immobilise (and I don't advise it, cut the starter) and red is your power supply (12v+).

There are two mounting bolts to the left where the glove box fits with brown cables going to them. that's your ground (earthing) point, either one..

Doors bonnet (hood) and boot (trunk):- remember those two quadplugs? This time right hand. If four doors there will be four wires with brown as the primary with blue grey yellow etc as secondary, and yellow or silver dots. These are your door contacts. Check/test then join 1" length of green wire from alarm to each, then 1 x 1N4004 to each length with the bands away from alarm, then join all to the alarm's green. This is where your sleeving and solder comes in handy.  If two doors, obviously you're only looking for two.

Trunk:- If 4 dr. saloon, passenger side rear, pull top of seat away, you might need something like a lever or pry bar, you will see a grommet at top of bulkhead.  Coming out of this from the boot area and going up the "C" pillar is a BROWN / white wire. That's your trunk contact. If coupe, then go through the grommet into boot space (Tricky job without the right tools, white net curtain rod would be extremely useful on this job, about £3 from homebase)  It's in the loom coming from passenger side rear light cluster, BROWN / white. You need to remove the inside lamp part (one twistlock) to pull lining carpet away. If it's a cabriolet, forget all the last it's up with the door switch contacts again BROWN / white behind glove box.

Bonnet, look to the driver's side striker plate. To the right of the rad are two holes. Measure off and drill 12mm (1/2") hole on the passenger side in the same position.  That's for your bonnet switch (buy at Maplin along with your 3 or 5 diodes.)  Also mount the siren on the near side forward on the wheel arch. Now go back to the glove box area, pull back the upper edge of the floor carpet and some foam above it.  Right in the middle is your entry grommet. The curtain rod comes into its own here. N.B If your battery is in the rear you can get at this grommet from the engine bay firewall.

Ignore the purple wire that's joined to the green. Also if you have a blue wire that does bonnet and boot, place a diode (1N4004) on the boot's lead with the band away from the alarm. This will prevent a faulty bonnet switch turning on the boot light and flattening the battery. If there's a separate grey wire for the bonnet hood) ignore what I just said.

That's it.

KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Posted: June 30, 2009 at 10:57 PM / IP Logged  

Howie..... again, YOU ARE THE MAN!viper 1002 e36 needed -- posted image.

I would bet anyone that you could do this E36 with a patch over your good eye, AND one arm tied painfully behind your back!

dx90 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 01, 2009 at 7:58 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll, just wanted to check a few of things before going over to Maplin.
Is this the correct pin switch for the bonnet code - AY07H?
The diodes are listed as 1N4004S with an S on the end, code - QL76H. Are these the ones?
Looks like I will need some multi strand wire as well. What thickens should I get?
The alarm has dual shock built in. Can I mount the brain in any position or does it have to be mounted vertical and how critical is this?
Can it be mounted to any surface?
I read somewhere its best to mount on a none solid surface. If this is correct where could I mount it too?
Also, a very big thank you for helping me with all this. I do appreciate it.
BMW E36 320I August build 1995
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:47 AM / IP Logged  
No Gary, only with a patch over my bad eye and the wrists don't work, draw your own conclusions, think about how many times you used the flat of your hand to push in a door trim or push down a seat.  dx90. Those diodes are OK, define multistrand cable. Apart from reaching the boot contact, you've more than enough in the kit. For a start you won't be using the purple. Normal guage would be 0.75mm (5amps power capacity) Bonnet switch is correct, shove the control unit into the space above the ECU behind the glove box, sit it horizontally.
dx90 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 01, 2009 at 2:31 PM / IP Logged  
I'll get across there tomorrow and pick the bits up I need.
I should have just said stranded cable and not multi stranded I think.
As soon as I can arrange some alternative transport for the children I will give it ago. I've printed all your instructions out and if I'm not sure of about something I will ask before I connect, just to play safe.
Thanks again for all your help. I'll let you know how I get on.
BMW E36 320I August build 1995
dx90 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 03, 2009 at 10:07 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll
Is it OK to use these Snap-Lock Automotive Cable Connectors to join onto the wires or is it best to bare the wire, wrap around and solder the alarm wire onto the main harness?
BMW E36 320I August build 1995
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 03, 2009 at 12:12 PM / IP Logged  
Definately no to Scotchloks, don't mention them on this site, definate yes to the second. N.B. Some insulating tapes are a lot better than others, you're not likely to buy Scotch 33+ in the UK unless you buy 10+ rolls at a time, RS tape is 8 rolls, so get Maplin's best.  Don't get the brand sold in most car accessory shops with a white lable, it's garbage.
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