97 chevy k1500 astra 1000rs window prob.

Hey all-

I just installed an Astra 1000RS on my 97 Chevy k1500.  That all went in without a problem.  I used to diagram from here.  I have an extra channel which I want to use to roll my windows down.  The channel out is -500ma.  I used a relay to swap the polarity to positive and I hooked it up to the Brown and Tan as described in the diagram.  I can hear the relay in the astra clicking but the windows dont move.  I used my volt tester on it and these wires had power flowing through them in both directions; up and down.

I am kinda stumped now.  If anyone has any ideas I would def appreciate it!  Thanks!

I am assuming that the K1500 is the full size van.  This is the info from this site for the van, the wires you listed are for window down.  I have no idea if these are the actual motor wires or the wires that trigger the relays to move the windows.  Can you tell me if these wires go to the motor?

You may have to do a little footwork with a meter so we can determine what kind of system we are dealing with, but we should be able to get it to work.

Hey there, I those colors, its on a k1500 pickup.  I tapped into those colors right by the remote, and i get nothing but a popped fuse.  from there i went into the actual motor.  i volted it out and found which one had juice going down and tapped into that.  I still get a popped fuse when the relay kicks on.  one time the window did move, but like 1/2 a millimeter.  here is what i have going on:

86: -500ma from brain

87/85: 12v

30: out to motor

I guess I am supposed to assume this means there was a voltage reading of 0.00 on your meter when you checked voltage on both wires. 

This time set your meter to the Ohms selection, and do the same thing again.  Black lead on ground, red lead to each of the 2 motor wires.  Give me the meter reading of each wire. 

When you tried the 5 wire setup, did you cut the motor wires?

Well what happend with the motor wires, when it went up the blue had 11.3 volts, when it was going down the brown had 11.3 volts.  When there was nothing it was at 0 volts. 

I ohmed out both driver and passenger side, both at 200.  The driver side had .8 and the passenger side was at .3.

Thats the diagram I was using, but everytime i would hook up the constant 12 volt It would pop the fuse.   I thought I should be using a different diagram cause that setup was calling for 2 neg inputs (1 for lock/1 for unlock).  It just seems that everytime it has the 12 volt constant going into the switch it will pop the fuse. 

I am just lost on this!! i really appreciate the help your giving me!