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multiple sensors on optional sensor port?


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jasonlipka 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Posted: August 27, 2009 at 3:55 PM / IP Logged  
This question is kind of a general one, but if it does make a difference, the alarm system I have is a Viper 5901.
My question pertains to the optional sensor port. Now I am making the assumption, and correct me if I am wrong, but the four wires on a Viper optional sensor port are: +12V constant, ground, warn away, and instant trigger. I guess first off, is this a correct assumption?
The real question I have is how many sensors can you run off this port? For example, the 5901 comes with a shock sensor built-in, but I am considering the addition of a 508D field disturbance sensor, a 507M tilt/motion sensor, and a 506T glass break sensor. I know that each individual sensor has unique wiring requirements (like the 507M requires a ground-when-armed input, etc), but when the sensors have common wiring requirements (+12V constant, instant trigger, etc), I was thinking about wiring them all to the optional sensor port (diode-isolated, of course).
Any idea how many sensors this optional sensor port can handle? My main concern is overloading the +12V constant (red) wire of the sensor port. I read in another thread somewhere that the sensor consume a trivial amount of current (like 1 mA). If this is the case, my initial thought would be that you could probably put as many sensors as you want on this port.
Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance!
Thack79 
Silver - Posts: 526
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 02, 2003
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: August 28, 2009 at 9:58 AM / IP Logged  

Your assumption is right about the wires.

I dont think ive ever added a glass breakage sensor to a car (useless to me because the second the impact the shock sensor will go off), you can splice all to the extra port.

jasonlipka 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 8:35 AM / IP Logged  
I spoke with a great tech (Ted) over at Directed. He's pretty cool and recognized straight away that I was savvy enough to understand the system. He told me he'd answer whatever questions I had so long as I remembered that he wasn't allowed to "condone" me installing it myself. But he knew damn well I would.
Anyways, he told me that the +12V constant should not be used for more than 2 sensors on one port. First and foremost, he said the port isn't capable of supplying enough current for more than two sensors. Second, he said the system is more secure if you run different sensors to different +12V constant sources. That way, the thief can't just cut the four wires running to the opt sensor port and disable multiple sensors.
He did say, however, that you can run as many sensors as you want to the blue and green wires of the opt sensor port, since they are inputs rather than outputs. All of these sensors will show as Zone 4 on the 5901. Also, the trunk pin input on the H1 harness (forgot the pin #) IS multiplexed, so you can run both the blue AND green of any sensor to this wire. It will respond to pulses less than 0.8 s in duration with a "warn-away" response and pulses longer than 0.8 s with a full system trigger. However, the alarm will report zone 2 and if you have a 2-way system, it will try and tell you the trunk is open.
One last tidbit. If you guys are interested in the new Viper 7901, Ted told me that you should go ahead and buy the 5901 now. All you will need to do when the 7901 comes out is buy a replacement remote for the 7901 and it will interface perfectly since the 5901 is also an SST LC3 Supercode system. He said the brains and antennae are exactly the same. He currently has a 7901 test system in his car. Also, if you have the slightly older 5701 Responder LE system, you can upgrade to the the 7901 system by purchasing the remote and antenna for an SST LC3 Supercode system (like the 5901).
@ Thack79: You've never used a glass break sensor? The shock sensor must have to be turned up really high in sensitivity. I wanna minimize false alarms. What about pro thieves that use center-punches (and similar) to break the glass? I just want to make sure all my bases are covered.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 9:09 AM / IP Logged  
Less sensors the better, the fact is that if you turn up a glass sensor so that it works properly, the outer zone of a 508d will trigger it. They used to supply a Clifford Concept 500 in the UK with dual zone prox and a glass break, no one ever used a glass break a second time!  I'm absolutely with Thack79 on this one.  Frankly all you need is a 508d correctly set up. To trigger the shock sensor unless you place it in a bumper, the 508d will pick up before the others anyway, the tilt is always falsing so I only use a 508d.  The only other option was to use the best one of all the Clifford Omni-Sensor but I don't think they run it anymore, too expensive. (Just like the original G4 tilt, a wonderful piece of equipment but again too expensive, also because of health and safety they had to dump the sensors containing mercury and revert to ball bearings, nowhere near as good.)
jasonlipka 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 9:17 AM / IP Logged  
Well that certainly makes the installation a whole lot easier. 508D it is then. That's a direct plug-in to the optional sensor port, too. Cool.
Now, this is kinda hi-jacking my own thread, but how do you guys feel about using the 513T Mini Piezo Siren(s) as a pain generator? I was thinking about mounting one under the dash so that if someone sets off the alarm and is trying to mess with the wiring to the brain, it'll be loud enough that they can't stay under there.
What are your thoughts? Maybe I am trying to overcomplicate the system (again).
Thack79 
Silver - Posts: 526
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 02, 2003
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 10:28 AM / IP Logged  

Not sure the car, but if the factory horn is connected (as well as the siren), that should be enough.  the 5901 has a pager so its not like your not gonna be able to notice your alarm going off. Im in the washington dc area where car theft is pretty high and around here if someone hears an alarm going off, they are going to keep walking. At least if your using the factory horn, the wires rest and are protected in the streeing column. Between the pager, the 508d, and the factory horn. thats probably the best.  I only use 507 (tilt) for cars that have wheels and not much stereo equipment and 508d for cars that just "have it all'.

Hope the install goes well.

Thack79 
Silver - Posts: 526
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 02, 2003
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 10:33 AM / IP Logged  

BTW good tidbit on the alarm upgrade information.

Appreciated.  

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 1:44 PM / IP Logged  
Mini "Go deaf you blasted thief" is a wonderful option.  You might need a relay to drive it though.
jasonlipka 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 1:49 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Mini "Go deaf you blasted thief" is a wonderful option.  You might need a relay to drive it though.
I was gonna put it on a relay anyways. I was just wondering on whether or not it is a worthwhile endeavor. If not, I'm not gonna waste my time with it.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 31, 2009 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  

Brown lead from alarm CPU plug H1 to 86 on relay, 85 to ground, 12v+constant at 5amps fused to 30, siren from 87 OR BROWN / black from alarm CPU* plug H2 to relay 85, live 12v+ at 5amps fused to 86 and 30, output to siren from 87. The second method will give you pulsing sounds, you could also use air horns instead of the second siren.

Don't need full size relays, DEI sell a small pre-wired relay, I think part # 8166 for less than the normal relay peice or you can get them from Radio Shack, 12volts 5 amps for about $1.20 e.a.

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