2003 toyota prius bypass im05 viper 5901

Hello, I'm preparing to install a remote start alarm in my 2003 Toyota Prius. Listed below is the equipment I will be using. Viper 5901 LCS DEI 530T x2 DEI 506T DEI 507M DEI 522T The module in question of compatibility. IM05 XK05 Will the IM05 XK05 remote start databus bypass module work, and be fully function with my vehicle? Has anyone successfully installed this module in a 2001-2003 Toyota Prius? What were your results? Any thoughts and opinions on this module? I contacted DEI and they said it may work, but with no guarantees or support. The tech said I would need the Toyota manufacture wiring diagrams to identify, and connect to the correct wires. DEI will not provide this information. I contacted an ebay seller who claims it will work. On the DEI application chart it only lists 2004 to present model Prius. Will anyone provide me with the Toyota wiring diagrams to perform a complete install? I have the vehicle wiring information from DEI. However much of the needed information is missing. DEI recommends the 556UW to bypass the transponder for this vehicle. I don't want to sacrifice a key, or make the vehicle more susceptible to theft. The IM05 seems to be more secure, and can be updated. What are your expert opinions? Do I have any other "no key" secure options to bypass the transponder immobilization system? I want it to retain this factory anti-theft function. So it should only temporarily bypass the module for remote start. Any tips for installing this system on my vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Will adding the 522T disable my factory trunk release, and option to bypass the release lever. This feature is activated by using the key to turn the trunk lock cylinder to the left? Will I need to install any extra relays that are not provided with the Viper 5901? Are there any other must have accessory options that you recommend with this system? What are some useful auxiliary options I could add to this alarm? There are 3 channels still available. Thank you all in advance for taking the time to express your interest and knowledge on this subject.

As far as using a universal key bypass...You can cut the key portion...And just leave the head in the bypass...So no working key... As far as the other outputs...Window roll up/down...rear defroster...are a few ideas...! I dont think the bypass would be active untill you remote start...Which sends a ground signal to the bypass...Turning it on...! How much are you getting the XK05 for...Not sure...But check out howard keys...and see if you can get a blank for the 01-03 prius...Not sure how those keys program...But in some cases...It doesnt even need to be cut...!M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Hey Tommy, WOW! Thank you very much for all of that great information. You have filled in so many of the blanks for me. I really like your window up/down, and rear defrost idea as an auxiliary feature. I was thinking that too. I still have room for two more auxiliary features. Do you have any more ideas? Could you please send me the wiring information for the rear defroster? As far as the 530T install goes. I have the factory driver's side one touch up and down window. The 2x 530T modules will give me this feature on all 4 windows. Do I need to run wires inside of each individual door to connect to the window motors? Or is it best to wire them at the master window switch? I read in the 530T install manual that it's only necessary to connect at the window motor for certain electrical system types. It would be nice to have the one touch up and down feature work at each window switch including the master switch. If I connect the wires at each individual window motor will the one touch window feature work from the door switch and the master switch? I have not purchased the XK05 yet because I still don't know if this module will work. The price is $34.96 on ebay. I have contacted Omega's tech department and they were also uncertain if this module would work on my 2003 Prius. He did tell me that the firmware needed for the 04 Prius is PKTi. The XK05 is preloaded with PKT2 which covers a lot of applications. The question is which firmware will work. Is there any custom firmware available for my vehicle? If I had to take a guess it would be the PKT2 because the technology and key type have changed in the 04-2010 model Prius. I'm not going to be guessing on this install though. If anyone knows what the correct XK05 firmware is for a 03 Prius please do tell. If there are any other "smart" bypass options please note those as well. My concern with the 556UW bypass "key in the box" is that even if the key won't turn the ignition cylinder because it's uncut, ground down, or cut off completely. The transponder is still present inside the vehicle. This presents a risk for vehicle theft. This is the main purpose for the XK05. As the Omega tech explained it only temporarily flashes the PCM with the correct signal. This seems like a more secure bypass as it retains the factory anti-theft immobilization system. I have a few new blank transponder keys on the way. I will try to program the keys without cutting them. Does anyone know how to do this without using an expensive key cloner? RFID hacking is becoming more common these days. I'm interested in it only for my own personal security, and primarily programming my own keys. If I use the 556UW this would save me from having to cut the keys before install. How can I use an RFID reader/writer to read/clone/program my master key? What model RFID reader/writer and software is needed to perform this task. I'm not certain because of the DST signals that are used. Would any LF 125kHz reader/writer work? Most of the reader/writers I have found seem to be intended primarily for reading/writing tags or cards. I have read all over the web that this can easily be done with the proper inexpensive hardware, and software. I have yet to find a detailed instructional. I imagine this is exactly what the many different key cloning machines do. Only in a more user friendly fashion, with fancy packaging, and a slot for the key. I wonder if they are basically RFID reader/writers with a key slot. Which is probably nothing more then a wounded copper wire antenna loop covered in plastic. I would like to build my own one do tell. I was a Ford mechanic for 8 years, and have programed a countless # of keys. A key cloning device would have saved me a lot of time. Using an NGS or WDS has the delay time, so you are forced to wait for security access. Often the scanner or vehicles battery would die during this process. This is a major waste of time and can lead to some serious pain in the butt issues.      Thanks again for all of your help.

As far as programming the key...Lets say on fords...you have 2 working keys...1st key to on position...remove...2nd key to on position...remove...Now this is where you add the 3rd key...But since it is uncut...you cant turn ignition on...Sooo...using the universal bypass...And using the diesel wait to start feature,and obviously the 556u's ring around the ignition...Just remote start vehicle...Since you are using the wait-to-start...all ignition and accesory wires power up...but you dont have to worry about it cranking...Bam...3rd key is programmed...And as far as the transponder still being in vehicle...1...they have to find it...2...they still have to hot-wre it...As the transponder is not active untill remote start... I absolutely love/hate the 1 touch up/down...its nice when you want it...But sucks when you just want to crack the window...(i smoke and it is storming outside)...! And as far as the correct firmware...Once you get the loader...The software you use to flash firmware has a feature where you put in year,make,model and it tells you available firmware...i havent used the new xk loader...but im sure its along the same lines...!M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Remote start input , 5-pin connector Pin 5 Blue/White (-) 200 mA 2nd status/rear defogger output Which vehicle wire do I hook the rear defogger output to? What is the wire color, and where is it located? Do I need to install an inline resistor, or diode? Is this multiplex signal pulsed, or latched? I guess pulsed because I measured the signal with a DMM, and my readings were inconsistent, and erratic. However once the signal enters the Body ECU I imagine it's latched. Because that would be the steady relay (-) trigger.    The rear defrost switch is integrated into the A/C amplifier. The A/C amplifier controls the heating and A/C. When I push the defrost switch the A/C amplifier sends a signal via a multiplex MPX pin 11 wire color Gray at the (A7) A/C amplifier that goes to the (C11) Combination Meter pin 3 MPX (-). Next the signal travels from Combination Meter pin 2 wire color Gray/Black MPX (+) to the (B8) Body ECU pin 15 MPX (+) Connector A. Then it travels from pin 13 DFG that is integrated into the circuit board of the Body ECU to pin 2 of the DEF relay that is also integrated into the Body ECU. There is no wire access to the rear defrost relay. Should I tap the DEF relay at pin 2? How do I professionally tap this micro relay? Which of the ideas listed below is the best relay tap solution? I put them in order from good to bad (in my opinion). 1. Add a new 2nd DEF relay that connects directly to the Black defrost wire pin 4 connector (2M) at the junction box. 2. Making, and installing a relay jumper harness. Then I could solder in a splice to the wire that goes to pin 2. 3. Modifying a relay internally. Drill a small hole in the side of the plastic cover for clearance purposes. Route the wire through the hole to pin 2 and make a solder connection. Install cover and apply sealant around the hole and wire. 4. Soldering a wire to pin 2 near the base of the relay. The relay still wouldn't fully seat. 5. Is there a thin female sleeve available that slides over the relay pin. That can be attached to a wire near the relay base. The problem with this would be that the relay would not fully seat with the junction box female terminals due to the thickness of the wire. The sleeve would add thickness to the pin, and may damage/loosen the junction box terminals. This would be bad because the pins can not be removed/replaced like a standard OEM connector. 6. Fold the bare end of the wire over the male pin. This will sandwich the wire to the pin. This may not make a good enough connection. Resulting in high resistance. This also has the same problems as mentioned above.      I would prefer to splice the multiplex circuit. As this would be a 1 wire connection with the proper resistor/diode if any is needed. Thank you in advance for any suggestions and ideas that you have

Contacted DEI tech support today about the rear defroster. They said that they had no information for this vehicle other then it's operated via data line. I discussed the option of adding a relay to control the defrost remotely. They said that they don't advise this as the back glass could get so hot that is shatters. I'm going to turn on the defroster with the switch. Monitor the voltage at the wire coming from the relay that leads to the defroster grid. Monitoring the amount of time the defroster stays on/receives voltage from the DEF relay. If the defroster receives battery voltage for longer then 10 minutes. Then I would say that it's safe to install relay to activate it remotely. Because the rear defogger output activates for 10 minutes when it's below 55F. Does this sound correct? Please advise so I avoid having to replace the rear glass.

In tachometer mode when remote starting the vehicle the engine starts runs for a few seconds and cuts off. This repeats for a total of 3 times. When I push the remote start button after the first or second failed remote start attempt the parking lights flash 4 times. In Remote Start Diagnostics section of the installation manual 4 parking light flashes is not listed? In Virtual Tach Mode the vehicle runs for a little bit longer then in Tach mode then cuts off. The only mode that works is the Voltage sense mode. I want the vehicle to start in Tachometer Mode for rev protection. Also to make certain the Viper system features operate correctly. I have the Violet/White wire connected to pin 16 Red wire Crankshaft Position Sensor (+) at the ECU connector. I have performed the tach signal learn. At first the led would pulse and never stay on solid. I switched the tach jumper position and now the led illuminates solid during tach learn. Regardless in tach mode the vehicle will not stay running with remote start. I tested the Duty Cycle % signal from the tach wire Violet/White and with the engine running and there is a pulse generated signal as expected. I disconnected the tach harness and tested continuity with pin 16 at the ECU and the continuity measured good. Is there something I'm missing why won't Tachometer mode or Virtual Tach mode start and run this vehicle? What signal does the tach wire need to see? Is there a better wire at the ECU or elsewhere that I should connect the tach wire to? I would like to avoid running a wire into the engine compartment because on this vehicle it's a PITA.