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1999 vw bora alarm


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2kz71 
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Location: California, United States
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged  
Looking for the wiring diagram for a 99 VW Bora, i was told it was the same as the Jetta but none of the wires in the door match the wires that are listed... any one with any help?
I've tried testing the wires with the multimeter and i have 4 wires that go from 12volts - 0volts (or visa versa) when the lock/unlock buttons are pushed.
howie ll 
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Posted: July 11, 2010 at 9:21 AM / IP Logged  
Look at MkIV Golf as your reference. The wires you're looking for are in the driver's door, run across the door from lock actuator at the rear to the plug on the window motor.
Lock = yellow/blue, unlock = GREEN/ red or YELLOW /GREEN.
Neg pulse, double to unlock, extend lock pulse time for comfort (total) close.
2kz71 
Member - Posts: 22
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Joined: March 18, 2009
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Posted: July 11, 2010 at 11:39 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Look at MkIV Golf as your reference. The wires you're looking for are in the driver's door, run across the door from lock actuator at the rear to the plug on the window motor.
Lock = yellow/blue, unlock = GREEN/ red or YELLOW /GREEN.
Neg pulse, double to unlock, extend lock pulse time for comfort (total) close.
Got 'em, thank you. Now whenever i go to lock with the remote the relay will click and vibrate or the door lock(part on the top of the door that you can push or pull to unlock/lock) will shudder but it will neither lock or unlock...ideas? All wires are connected properly at the relay, as far as i can tell.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 1:29 PM / IP Logged  
The door must be closed or the latch thrown over, or possible motor failure.
Try it from the switch on the door, or try looping the lock wire to ground directly and see what happens.
If the door switch gives the same result, you have a U/S motor.
2kz71 
Member - Posts: 22
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Joined: March 18, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 1:44 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
The door must be closed or the latch thrown over, or possible motor failure.
Try it from the switch on the door, or try looping the lock wire to ground directly and see what happens.
If the door switch gives the same result, you have a U/S motor.
Tried it with the door closed. Same result. The lock button (part on top of the door pannel) will vibrate when you try to lock the door, and do nothing when you try to unlock the door. But works fine when using the lock/unlock button on the door pannel.
On another note, now i'm having issues with the starter kill. You can bypass the starter kill relay and the vehicle will start just fine. But when you don't bypass it will not start (alarm both activated or deactivated and grounded or ungrounded)
2kz71 
Member - Posts: 22
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Joined: March 18, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 1:49 PM / IP Logged  
If it helps any the alarm is an Autopage RF-320
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: July 11, 2010 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged  
Without knowing what you did try my trick of grounding that wire, that will prove whether it's an alarm fault, also check the unit to make sure it's putting out a neg signal on the lock wire. If this unit lists its lock/unlock wires as +or - output, you will need to diode, 1N4004, on both wires bands away from alarm but first ground that wire!
Is your starter cut relay wired correctly or is it internal with a green to key side and a violet to starter side of the cut starter wire?
2kz71 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Without knowing what you did try my trick of grounding that wire, that will prove whether it's an alarm fault, also check the unit to make sure it's putting out a neg signal on the lock wire. If this unit lists its lock/unlock wires as +or - output, you will need to diode, 1N4004, on both wires bands away from alarm but first ground that wire!
Is your starter cut relay wired correctly or is it internal with a green to key side and a violet to starter side of the cut starter wire?
Okay i don't have any diodes on the wiring, that might be the issue but i'll try the ground trick first.
It was wired correctly when i tested it after making the connections. I assumed it was just one of the wires got pulled out but i pulled the relay (external) and all wires are still connected both to the relay and to their destinations (12v/starter/ignition/etc)
2kz71 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 3:26 PM / IP Logged  
Did some more searching. The wires i had hooked up controled the windows "roll down" function. The doors would lock/unlock then a second or two later all 4 windows would roll down. Is that common? Just testing with 12volts of power. Also i checked the colors you told me against what i have and they don't match....in the door i have
BROWN / White
Purple / YELLOW
Blue / YELLOW
Grey / YELLOW
BROWN / Blue
YELLOW /GREEN or blue, can't make out the color
GREEN/ Brown
GREEN/ YELLOW
Thanks for all your help so far...
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 11, 2010 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged  
The one you had as blue / YELLOW, try that or GREEN/ YELLOW or the one you're not sure about, try them, also you can't have roll down, it will simply unlock the doors.
The roll down function, you must have enabled that so undo it. OR you have your lock and unlock wires the wrong way round!
I do about one of these every month and I've never bothered to remember the lock/unlock colours, I simply TEST! Which is what a pro would do, test first.
You will need a diode on the trunk trigger, otherwise the al;arm will fire off every 35 mins, look on this site for DEI 1076 and apply it to the BROWN / black trunk trigger wire at the BCM box (under dash, driver's side).
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