mazda 3 2010

Fellow Peeps, I'm about to head out to install a remote starter on my mazda 3 (base model) Viper 5701 PKALL bypass module I got the door lock thing down, but I need someone to help me verify the wiring. Could someone please be so kind as to help me?

ok, that did not come out right. Here's the PDF

Got some problems on the H3 connections.  Your car has 2 Accessory circuits.  The Viper can handle that with its Flex Relay and some option programming.  Change Menu 3, Menu Item 8 to Option 2.  That will make H3/7, Pink/White,  your Accessory2 output wire.  Then you won't have two wires connected to H3/3, only ACC1.

Additionally H3/8 should not be connected.  It is not used, just insulate it.

Make sure the Viper Parking Light jumper is set to (-).

Double check all the cars wires with your DMM or computer safe test light to verify.  The wiring guides are not always correct and sometimes there are multiple wires of the same color in the harness / connector.

Soldering is fun!

Ohh, thanks so much... I'll get on that right away. Other than that does it look fine?

Also Menu 3 Menu Item 2 (ENGINE CHECKING VIRTUAL TACH) Should be Set to Using Tachometer since I'm connecting the tach wire right?

A quick scan looks good.  I didn't go wire by wire to the guides for horn, lights, brake, etc.  The major ignition wires are good.

Does your car have a Factory Alarm?  If not the Arm / Disarm are not needed.

I would go W2W with the PKALL.  Cut the 4 pin harness and connect to +12v power and ground.  RX at Pin1  should be WHITE/ Light Green.  TX at Pin 2 should be Gray/Orange.

Soldering is fun!

TACH is the way to go.  Most reliable method.  Besides the menu option change, you must do Tach Learn procedure prior to attempting a remote start.Soldering is fun!

I don't think the car has factory alarm, it doesn't even have a remote. I don't really know. I know it has a engine kill or something like that cuz the keys have chips in them. But this is the base model, so I doubt it has an alarm. Why would you go with the W2W instead of D2D?

There have been some issues with D2D.  Usually in the more robustly featured bypass modules that control a whole lot more than just the immobilizer.  Its just two more wire rather than the one data harness and it makes for one less thing to worry about.   Programming the PKALL can be a challange ( Ford / Mazda).  Follow the steps closely.Soldering is fun!

Ok, I just opened up the car, and there is no way I can tell which wire is which. If I'm right, the BCM connector is on the driver's side behind the steering wheel (next to the firewall). According to the info on this forum the parking lights should be a gray wire in the plug. There 3 gray wires. How do I know which one it is. Same goes for a bunch of other stuff connected on the BCM. Does anyone have the pinout?