04 tahoe rs issues

I am installing an Avital A4103 in a 2004 Tahoe. I am using the DB-ALL bypass. My issue is that when you remote start it, it cranks, and just begins to fire and then the starter disengages. Then on its second attempt it cranks for probably 5-6 seconds and then starts. I have tried several different locations for the tach signal. I have gone to the injector, as well as the coil pack. On the injectors, there is a pink and black, then on the next injector is a pink and pink/black stripe. So I am going to black wire since that is the odd color. On the coil pack, the odd color is orange, and that is also what I was hooked up to. I have tried setting to virtual tach just for testing and cranked that up to 500ms. I have also tried voltage sensing and set the crank time to 2 minutes. Both of those and the vehicle does the same thing. I have tried to move my ground to another location, still same result. What else should I be trying? Thanks Shawn

Place the key in the ignition switch, try to remote start it. What does it do now?

Place the key in the ignition and this time turn it to the on position, try to remote start it, what does it do now?

I can try that when the customer brings the vehicle back in. But wouldn't I get the passlock light on the dash if the bypass was not working properly? I do not get the light in the dash when remote starting it. I do however get the light to come on when I lock the doors. If I unlock the doors, it turns off. I have tried remote starting it both ways to see if there was a difference. Does the same thing. Also, if it was a bypass issue, would it still start on the second attempt? Granted it does crank for a while to actually start, but it still starts. And I am assuming key on and remote starting it is to determine if I am not powering something I should be from the RS unit. Is that correct? The only thing I am not powering is the brown accessory 2 wire. The heater and radio come on when unit attempts to remote start. I had read elsewhere that someone had this issue and changed the wait to start to 1 second rather than the 15 second default setting. I had always thought the wait to start was for diesel applications. Or does this affect gas engines as well? Thanks Shawn

you should be going to the cluster for tach on these vehicles.A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

i always do these vehicles, voltage sense, 4 sec crank.... no issues at all....  you could also try V tachKevin Gerry

Certified Electronics Technician

MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer

Classic Car Audio

since 1979

I am going to try the tach wire behind the cluster when it comes back. And as far as voltage sense or virtual tach, I did both of those, and it still gave the same result. That is what had me stumped. Shawn

If i recall correctly it's white at the cluster. the only white one there. obviously you will want to test it.A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Well got it figured out today. Changed to the white wire behind tach, and moved my ground down to a little thicker metal in the kickpanel. Same result. Ran a quick jumper to the second accessory wire, and hit the button on the remote. Started first attempt. So pull the jumper out and ran a wired a relay for the second accessory, and its working like a charm now. Never had the issue before. We used to only power the first accessory and never ran into this. Only time we usually needed to power the second accessory was if the heater controls did not come on with remote start. From what I have been reading, its kind of hit or miss if the second accessory needs to be powered up. Thanks to all for the advice. Shawn

good to hear it was something simple. sucks to hear that it was more or less a shortcut to save a buck or two for a relay, and maybe aminute during bench press.A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Had nothing to do with saving a buck or time on the bench. Just never had the issue before. Have done quite a few of the GM trucks and never usually needed to power up the second accessory. And it was never causing a no start condition, only no heater control activation during remote start. Shawn