1998 toyota 4runner remote start

I have a Viper 791 XV alarm system and just recently installed it.. The lock and unlock functions work perfectly fine but the remote start isn't working for some reason.. What happens is when I press [ * ] twice on my remote the car turns on, then turns off, and the turn signals just start to blink. (no sound from the remote start module) With the key in the ON position; pressing the [ * ] twice, I can hear the remote start module making a fast clicking noise but nothing happens besides the lights turning on and off. If I have the key ON, active the remote start, crank the engine with the key; I then can remove the key and the engine will stay on.. I can also shut the engine off by pressing the [ * ] button twice. Anyone have any ideas on what can be wrong?? Here is how I wired the R/S module: PURPLE ---------- Starter (BLACK WIRE/STARTER SIDE) GREEN ---------- Starter (BLACK WIRE/KEY SIDE) RED ---------- Constant 12V+ (WHITE WIRE) ORANGE ---------- Accessory (BLACK / YELLOW WIRE) PINK ---------- IGNITION (BLACK/ RED WIRE) RED ---------- Constant 12V+ (WHITE WIRE) PINK/WHITE ---------- DID NOT USE (I was unsure if there was a 2ND Ignition wire..) RED / WHITE ---------- Constant 12V+ (WHITE WIRE) For the RS harness (H3); BLACK/ WHITE ---------- GROUND VIOLET/WHITE ---------- RPM (BLACK) BROWN ---------- Left alone for now GRAY ---------- Left alone for now BLUE/WHITE ---------- Left alone for now I've also notice that there is a WHITE/ BLUE wire which is listed as (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION OUTPUT, did I need to wire this one up? If so to where?

Pink/White from RS to BLACK / YELLOW (Ignition) Orange from RS to Blue/Red (Accessory) WHITE/ Blue is not required as you are using the included remotes to activate the remote start. Also, did the tachometer program correctly? Start car with key, within 5 seconds press and hold programming button til LED lights. If it doesn't light, the wire you tapped into is not correct.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Thanks! I will give this a try as soon as i get home from class!

Alright so I've went ahead and tried this and still the same issue. My Pink/White is going to the BLACK / YELLOW for secondary ignition, and the Orange is going to the Blue/Red for accessory but still nothing.. Seem as the car will turn on (as in key on) and turn off and skip cranking the engine. I've also did the RPM programming which works fine, the LED stays lit a pond me pushing the valet button and the brain will make 2 clicks after I release the switch.

Did you verify that the wires are getting the proper voltages at the right time? Using your DMM make sure the pink and pink/white are getting +12V the whole time, during initializing and crank, make sure the orange is providing +12V that drops out when cranking, etc. Did you happen to reprogram the function of the pink/white to accessory? Have you verified that all three supply (two reds and RED / white) wires are indeed getting +12V?Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Yes, the two reds and RED / white are getting +12V AC. Pink and pink/white are getting 12V also. As for reprogramming the function of the pink/white to accessory.. What do you mean by this?

Does the pink/white drop out while cranking? The pink/white is a programmable output, it can be programmed to be an ignition output or an accessory output. From your description in the first post, I am pretty sure your system is not supplying voltages in the proper sequence. But, I would also suggest that you temporarily try setting your system to voltage sensing to ensure your tachometer connection is good (regardless of how the brain indicated it programmed). Once you have isolated your current problem, then move back to the tach connection as it is the absolute best way to monitor crank time.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Bingo, i figured it out.. Starter wire is not black it is black and silver. (hope this helps someone in the future if they made this mistake haha) Thanks thelzvoltz for all the help!