python 872 on an f 350

Hello

I'm planning on installing the 872 LE in my 2003 F-350 crew cab.  I was wondering if you guys know -off the top of your head- If I need any relays for the truck.  Looks like I have the "Type B" door locks so I should be able to tap into the 2 wires, No?  I looked aroud and my old Viper alarm is tapped into those lines.  I have a fairly good understanding of simple circuitry and electricity and wiring.  I also have the sheets which say where most of these wires are located.  I will keep this post open to update my progress(Or lackthereof).

Thanks for having me. These forums are the best!

P.

Just Passing by...

Which Viper system is currently installed?  Is the current Viper system a remote start system?  If it is, that should make the upgrade easier.  Just compare and verify the wires as you de-install the old system.

If the old system is just an alarm / keyless entry, then you might need a bypass module for the new system and its' remote start feature.

Soldering is fun!

This info from Bulldog Security about the door locks : POWER LOCK  See NOTE #2         POWER UNLOCK  See NOTE #2  NOTE #2: Vehicles without FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY are a TYPE "C" Door Locking system, thePINK / YELLOW is for LOCK and the PINK/LIGHT GREEN is for UNLOCK both wires arefound in EITHER KICK PANEL, you MUST use the DRIVERS DOOR SWITCH for TESTING.if vehicle is equipped with FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY the Door Locks are a TYPE "B"System, the LOCK is a WHITE/ RED (-) and the UNLOCK is a BLACK/ WHITE (-) bothwires are found at the VSM or in the DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS between the door andthe door jam. You MAY also need to connect up the GEM WAKE UP DIAGRAM if whenyou use the REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY and the door locks stop working after a 5 minutewait.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for your help. The current alarm does not have remote start.   What would the bypass be for? I keep seeing them, I just don't know what it does.  Also, which would you recommend?

I should be starting tomorrow morning so I will have to live without the remote start if I have to.

P.

Just Passing by...

The bypass module is to bypass the Ignition  Immobilizer system ( transponder chip in the ignition key ).  This system prevents the engine from starting without a programmed transponder chip in the key head.   You might get lucky and not need one.  While Bulldog Security lists the 2002 - 2006 Super Duty as "Some Models", Fortin and iDatalink do not list a bypass for your 2003 F350.  The best / easiest way is to get a plain key made at a hardware store for $1.99 and see if it will start and run the truck.  ( Never hurts to have a spare key around to open the doors....       )Soldering is fun!

Thanks for replies so far.  The alarm is hooked up and I have had a long day.  I'm starting to make a few mistakes, but I'm making progress because I can find the mistakes I make.  One thing is happening that has me confused.  During "lock/Arm" the door locks and then tries again.  During "Unlock/disarm", the alarm disarms but the lock will not unlock.  I then have to press the unlock button again and the door will disarm.  One more thing that might be relevant.  The door trigger stays at +12v after I close the door for a few seconds(Maybe 30?).  This coincides with the domelight.  Is this a good door trigger signal or should I look for another one.  It's the one you guys suggest and it's where the last alarm was hooked up to.

Thanks

P.

Just Passing by...

I'm having a problem with the remote start and also a few odds and ends.  I'm trying to add an image of the diagram and what I've connected it to.  When I perform the remote shutdown diagnostics, I sometimes get the "3" flash(Low or no RPM) and sometimes the "7" flashes(Timer mode/Turbo mode/manual mode error).  I've tried setting the "Checking mode" to both Virtual Tach and tachometer with no good results.  I can't perform the startup diagnostics because the truck lights will not flash.  which brings me to the next question: Should the lights flash during arm/disarm?  How come they are not flashing?  Also, During arm, I get 1 chirp back.  Don't know if theis means something or helps...I will reply with the image if I wasn't successful. 

Thanks

P.

Just Passing by...

Making some progress so far.  I had to switch the internal jumper for the lights to flash.  THAT works.  Now, I'm dealing with the remote start.  I'm wondering if it's a tach issue.  I do not have the tach threshhold jumper on this model so...  BTW the tach wire(Grn/wht) is reading about 24VAC while idling.  I see no diffrence when I rev the truck up.  I taught the tach to the systemand it seems to have learned it.  I have set the engine checking mode to Virtual tach, Voltage and Tachometer with no results.  I sit inside the truck and hit remote start and I hear the control module clicking(flashes light) and clicking.  It does not send out any light flashes in terms of the startup diagnostics.  then it locks the already locked doors and seems to finish it's startup routine.  Any Clues?Just Passing by...

I think the H3/6  and H3/9 need to be hooked to 12V constant Yellow and LT GREEN/ Purple at the ignition harness or battery voltage. Always test with a voltmeter first though.