1999 e39, remote stater problem

I purchased this car 5 years ago and I installed Avital Avistart 4200 (Avital dealer in MI) but since then I have a small problem with it. Sometimes it cranks but it fails to start. I found on the internet installation guide and I did some reprogamming but I found out that there was no tach wire connected.

There are two menus, the second one looks like this:

[img]https://imageshack.us/f/10/odsfgvjr.jpg/[/img]

OK, when I choose ENGINE CHECK ON and TACHOMETER ENGINE CHECK (did tach learn),  the car won't start, it just cranks. Now the tach wire is connected, and yes, it's a right one.

When I put ENGINE CHECK OFF, the car would crank for 0.8 sec (programmed like that), sometimes starts, sometimes fails to start.

When I put ENGINE CHECK ON, VOLTAGE ENGINE CHECK and CRANKING TIME 0.8, the engine starts fine but again, sometimes fails to start.

I would like to have ENGINE CHECK ON with TACHOMETER ENGINE CHECK because I think that would be the best possible option, but like I said, the engine cranks for 100 years and no start.

Another thing, IGNITION COMES ON when I turn the key to ACC, and ON.

Im missing something?

michael schumacher

OK tach wire options for this vehicle because cranking for 100 years means only one thing...tach not learnt! Thin black wire at one of these locations:- Thin black, pin 9 OBD ll socket, not on earlier versions. Plug at rear of instrument panel (easy to drop out). One of the diagnostic sockets under the hood. Second, when learning tach run the engine at a faster idle, say 1200rpm. Third, whilst the R/S on that car wires the ACC (violet on car) as a second ignition it shouldn't show on normal turning of the key. Do an eyeball Mkl test where they've soldered the R/S wires to the ignition loom, see if two cables are shorted together. Alternatively if you can, if the leads are plugged on to the ignition switch rather than soldered (the column shroud is an easy removal) pull the first connection plug and test with a DMM set to continuity, it just might be an ignition switch fault.

Thanks for the reply.

First, the tach wire. Yes, it's a black one, thin, it goes to the back of instrument panel. If I cut it, there's no tach gauge, so it must be it. I did tach learn. I started the engine with the key, within 5 sec, I pressed and holded the Valet switch and the LED came on. So that means tach is learned.

Now, If I try to start it, it will crank, engine will not start, it justs cranks like crazy. I think if the tach is not learned, the engine would start but the starter would keep runing.

What you think?

michael schumacher

I think you might be right, you have the correct tach. The engine will normally run for 15 seconds then shut down when tach is not learned. On further thought it actually sounds like an ignition problem. This is the correct diagnostic set-up for your car:- 12v+ RED / green and RED / blue at ignition loom. Ignition 1 Light green at ditto Ignition 2 Violet (purple) at ditto* Starter black or BLACK / YELLOW or light GREEN/ black depending on batch. By-pass, 555UW using the grey valet key** wired Euro fashion, DON'T use the loop, hardwire. *ACC output shouldn't be used, set the vehicle's ACC wire (Violet) as 2nd. ignition because it actually uses that wire as part of the start up process. **If you use a normal key it will interfere with some of the start-up and locking processes. If you have a DMM, fine but you only need a Snap-On test light or similar to test all of the above. My thoughts are now leaning towards a faulty Avital or a faulty by-pass. By-pass wiring is easy, GWR wire, + and -. It would also be worth while unplugging the Avital and see if the ignition lights come on in ACC position. (You should only have the air bag light on). While it's unplugged, check your voltage on all the red cables , use the back wire as your ground. What was an E39? Excuse my ignorance but I know what an E36 and an E46 were, 98 was the changeover year although the basic electrics were the same.

Scratch the last question, we always called it the 96 5 series.

Yes sounds more like a bypass issue. IF you put the key in the ignition then try and remote start it, will it start? If so then you have a bypass problem.

No, with TACH ENGINE CHECK no, it just cranks.

michael schumacher

howie ll wrote: 12v+ RED / green and RED / blue at ignition loom. Ignition 1 Light green at ditto Ignition 2 Violet (purple) at ditto* Starter black or BLACK / YELLOW or light GREEN/ black depending on batch. By-pass, 555UW using the grey valet key** wired Euro fashion, DON'T use the loop, hardwire. *ACC output shouldn't be used, set the vehicle's ACC wire (Violet) as 2nd. ignition because it actually uses that wire as part of the start up process.

OK, this is the key switch wiring:

Wires:

This is the model of Avital installed on my car:

How to connect those wires?

michael schumacher

OK, the first diagram tells me what I knew earlier, the ignition shouldn't light up in the ACC position. Here's how the wiring goes:- 2 reds and RED / white, join one of them to each red. Cut BLACK/ brown. Green to key side and violet (purple) to starter side. Pink to ONE of the greens (any one)* Pink/white to violet. Orange don't use. *If the above doesn't work, follow this diagram:- e39.bmp Sorry about the scratchy lines, new mouse! I would have thought you could join to 1 of the light greens but that first diagram of yours proves me wrong. I wonder if you meter across them with the ignition off they are continuous, if so you won't need my diagram with 2 extra relays, 2 diodes (1n4004) and 2 30 amp fuse holders.