new 06, 10 tacoma door locks

I have noticed that on the newer tacoma's it says that there are both the factory arm/disarm wires as well as actual lock wires that may need to be used if the arm/disarm wires do not work when the vehicle is running. The question is, if the arm/disarm wires off the unit are connected to the arm/disarm wires in the car AND the lock wires off the unit are connected to the lock wires, will there be an issue with both wires being pulsed during lock/unlock??? Basically, will it be "double locking/unlocking" every time either button is pressed? I would prefer to keep the factory alarm working but will also need the lock/unlock wires if the locks don't work while the vehicle is running. Hopefully that all makes sense and someone can chime in here. I have a 2010 Tacoma tomorrow and I'd like to know if I have to do anything special before I get into it.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

idatalink modules will keep factory keyless intact/working. double pulse disarm to unlock. connect gwr to keysense to disarm without unlock.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

The 2010 I'm doing tomorrow is still a 40bit, not the 80bit so I don't believe the idatalink will control locks on the 40bit trucks (from what I have read). I already grabbed the bypass (key-override-all). I would also prefer to maintain the factory alarm if it is equipped. And from what I was reading on the readyremote.com wire diagram is that even the aftermarket lock/unlock will not work correctly when the vehicle is running... which is why connection to the lock/unlock may be required.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

factory alarm arm - purple (-) DKP white 10pin plug factory alarm disarm - GREEN/ black (-) DKP white 10pin plug *double pulse* Use factory arm/disarm wires for lock and unlock. if the vehicle does not unlock or lock with the aftermarket system while remote started, diode isolate and connect to lock and unlock wires Lock - blue/white (-) DKP white 10pin plug Unlock - Gray (-) DKP white 10pin plug Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

I was planning on just connecting the lock/unlock outputs if the locks didn't work when running... I just wanted to make sure that it wouldn't cause any issues having both wires pulsed (essentially sending 2 different unlock/lock pulses when the truck is not running).Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

the 2 wires are common to one another. You can verify with 2 meters if you wish with the key in the driver door cylinder. i did one of these last week and it worked out fine for me. if in doubt use a relay to break continuity on the factory arm/disarm wires and have them connect right to the lock wires.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

What happened to the previous page Kenny? I also mentioned keysense as a possibility.

Having the same kinds of issues on a 08 Tundra quad cab... Wont unlock with the remote start transmitter when it is not in remote start.. and as usual the Toyota Fob does not work while it is in remote start.. I used the XK05 for immobilizer. That requires a connection to key sense wire. I was wondering if I pulsed the keysense wire for unlock if that might make a difference.. or should I try the arm and disarm wires ????  I hooked the red and white in DKP!!!

howie ll wrote: What happened to the previous page Kenny? I also mentioned keysense as a possibility.

That one was specific to that one truck I was working on, this is more of a general question regarding the locks... that would show up better in a search for future people wondering the same thing.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Thanks, got to explain that to senile old fools like me.