door locks on 98 legacy outback

So I need some assistance again. A long time ago I did a remote start w/ keyless entry on my buddy's 98 Legacy outback. When I got under the dash I found a horrible rats nest of what appeared to be an aftermarket added factory keyless entry module. I have since learned that I'm not so sure it was aftermarket added, and it may have just been a complete factory rats nest (have seen the same thing in a few other subaru's around that year). It was just really odd because the module was loosely ziptied up and was mostly hanging down in the footwell. So anyways, at the time I figured I would clean up his underdash and disconnected the module and threw it in the trash. I then went through and did the rest of the starter/keyless with a lot less rats nest and loose modules. However after the install we noticed only his driver side front door wasn't unlocking. We chaulked it up to a bad actuator since he had just picked the car up and couldn't remember if it was ever working or not. Well fast forward to a week or so ago. I did another remote starter in a 98 Legacy and found the same rats nest keyless entry module. I did the same thing (unconnected it and moved it to the side) and after the install we found the exact same thing with the driver side door actuator... which I knew for sure it was working prior. So I plugged the module back and and viola it was working again... but of course I still had this nasty rats nest module that did not seem to really fit nicely anywhere. Ok, enough background, onto the real question at hand. My buddy's factory module is long gone so I was trying to see if anyone knew if there was a way (hopefully without going into the door with a 5-wire configuration) to possibly jumper a couple wires or work some magic to get the driver side door lock working again. It makes no sense to me that every other door lock works fine with the module disconnected and only the driver side front door does not lock/unlock. Any and all help is appreciated. I know I could always go into the door with a 5-wire setup but I would prefer to find a different way that I can possible incorporate into my future installs that have that big, nasty, rats nest factory module. Thanks guys!Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Are talking about this door lock module?

Soldering is fun!

No, from what I have read, this one is a Code Alarm factory style module... and may even be an alarm module instead of just keyless entry. Its roughly 8" long by 6" wide and 1-2" thick... and it does not bolt in anywhere, it literally has no good place to put it and just zipties under the dash in hopes of not falling out. One the 2nd one I did, I even tried moving some harnesses around to stuff it up out of the way but its just too damn big.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

OK, sounds like an aftermarket unit.  I've only done a few of these Outbacks ( 1997 - 1999 ) and all have had this style Factory unit shown in the photo.Soldering is fun!

Well it looked aftermarket as far as the mounting was (zip ties) but it was 100% a factory connector, no hardwired connections or anything. I believe it may be a factory alarm. I have the 2nd one coming back today to add some things so I'll try to get a picture of it tonight.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Ok so maybe I exaggerated a little on the size, but here is the unit that he had in there: HereKenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I seem to remember doing some grey import Imprezas in the late 90s with "factory" KE and the module was slightly smaller than Kreg's photo, but also a right rat's nest with believe it or not the antenna in the driver's door. In our cases I 5 wired the motor wires, you might try that Kenny. Every time I've come across a grey import from R type Hondas (00-05 the nice hot one, never sold in the US, tried to battle it out with the Cossie Focus and VW Golf VR6 but not as good) to twin turbo Supras, the Japanese wiring has been poor, scotchlocks etc, grounds = bare wires under bolt heads. The OEM wiring is good but I get cars from all over Europe, the only aftermarket wiring that's any good comes from North America, the UK, believe it or not Russia (think Canadians with a funny accent) and Israel.

i may see if the driver side actuator wires come through the door directly and if so I can hopefully 5 wire it right in the driver kick. If not then into the door I go. If I don't diode isolate the 2 wires then that should also activate the actuator with the switch correct? I think I'm thinking of it right but I want to make sure.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I just went through this also. The person bought this car used and the drivers door actuator wasn't working. I think it has to do with the factory keyless. The factory keyless according to the internet had drivers door priority unlocking. I believe the factory unit must have had the relay for drivers door priority built into it. When it is unplugged and removed you loose your unlock motor wire. What i did to fix this car was i jumped a wire from the unlock motor wire located in that picture above(though the doorlock module in the 98 i was working on had alot less wires). I tested for a wire that went positive when I hit unlock and sat at ground when nothing was pressed. That wire jumped into the drivers kick panel. In the kick panel there is a hole with alot of harnesses tucked into it. There was a 2 pin harness, Those are your motor wires. One is your lock the other is your unlock. I tested to see which one was the lock wire by pressing lock and testing for positive. The other was the unlock wire. I sniped it and added my jumper wire to the wire going out to the door. Presto, the doorlocks worked. Of course I had the door panel off also. That helped me to find the 2 pin plug in the kick panel because I already saw the actuators motor wire colors in the door.

oh and the factory door lock module is to the left of the steering wheel facing you, plug facing the floor. You can't miss it. It has your white and WHITE/ red negative doorlock wires from the door panel switches.