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2011 nissan titan relay under hood


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jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
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Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 5:58 PM / IP Logged  

Doing a R/S in a Titan and it shows to wire a relay under the hood which will connect starter 1 and starter 2 together. Since this has to be done, and there are two starter wires in the ignition harness, do I need to use the starter 2 output from the remote start on the starter 2 wire also, or is this actually being done with the relay under the hood at the fusebox. I am using the DBALL. (Last one, then using idatalink and fortin from here on)?

flobee4 
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Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, you need to hook up all the starter wires inside the car as well as the outside. Just follow the diagram to a "T" and you should be good. Next time use the Fortin EVO-Can with the 4.0 or higher firmware and you'll never want to do it the "old" way again.
jim hunter 
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Joined: March 23, 2006
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Posted: January 12, 2012 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  
the i dat requires the same relay and that ipdm is a bit of a botch to get to the ground and the neutral safety wire lol
tedmond 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 12, 2012 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged  
did this car the other day, the ipdm doesnt slide out too easily. You have to tug on it and twist it around just to get enough slack.
The relay will fit back under the cover, but make sure you use a waterproof relay aka epoxy filled.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
tedmond 
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Posted: January 12, 2012 at 10:28 PM / IP Logged  
and the fortin prevents the use of a relay under the hood. Which i dont get?
the wiring for the idatalink, DBALL, fortin are the same, just the fortin doesnt need the IPDM starter/nss wire. any ideas why?
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
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Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: January 13, 2012 at 9:58 AM / IP Logged  
Fortin does show connecting to the RX/TX wires at the ingnition barrell, DBALL and idatalink dont show that, so maybe that is the difference for not needing the relay, but i doubt it. Also, Fortin shows pins 13 and 14 at the BCM as being unlock/diarm and lock/arm. DBALL says to turn off the factory alarm through programming on the DBALL and idatalink does not say anything about the factory alarm. Tedmond did you connect to pins 14 and 14 for your lock and unlock wires at the BCM?
tedmond 
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Posted: January 13, 2012 at 10:15 AM / IP Logged  
i have done 3 of these vehicles in the combinations
compustar pro + blade AL
compustar pro + fortin EVO
Viper 5901 + DBALL
for all the systems i didnt run wires into the BCM. Never had issues with factory alarms either. Everything worked as it said it would through CAN/DATA for idata and fortin
The only thing is the DBALL you have to turn on the features for locks/unlock, and factory alarm. I left the can controlled parking lights(which have a one second delay anyways). The other 2 settings should have been defaulted anyways. I dont get xpresskits sometimes.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
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Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: January 13, 2012 at 11:09 AM / IP Logged  
Tedmond, so with the DBALL did you just turn off the factory alarm so there would be no problems. It is definately retarded that you have to go in and turn on these features with the DBALL.
tedmond 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 13, 2012 at 4:44 PM / IP Logged  
I just left the default feature, never heard any complaints from the customer.
Factory alarm didn't randomly go off so I didn't disable it
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jstruckman 
Copper - Posts: 465
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 03, 2004
Posted: January 14, 2012 at 1:53 PM / IP Logged  

Finished up the Titan, no problems with alarm going off unless I used the switch on the door to lock it, then the R/S remote to unlock. But that is normal. Customer says they want the factory alarm to stay like it is , so I am gonna bet I will have to go back and wire the door lock/unlock wires into the empty pins on the BCM. Aside from getting at the wires at the IPDM, that was a very easy install. Getting to ignition wires and data wires was super easy under the dash.

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