2010 f150 and viper 5704 issues

I tried posting this last night but my internet connection dropped and don't know if it posted. It doesn't look like it did since there's other new posts here.

I just installed a Viper 5704 in my 2010 F150 FX4 with a PKALL bypass. I did a ton of research and found a lot of great info but I've run into a few issues.

1) The remote start works but it only runs for about 10-15 seconds and then shuts down. I have the 5704 set to hardwire tach off the direct ignition wire at cylinder #1 and did the "learn the tach" procedure. I searched about this issue and I thought I read someone had this problem but I can't seem to find it while googling for the past 2 hrs. Some ideas would be to set it to virtual tach or off in the programming.

2) The lock/unlock doesn't seem to work. I used the grey / YELLOW (lock) and violet/grey (unlock) wires in the passenger door channel (couldn't get to the wires in the SJB) I was going to try to use the wires on the driver's side to see if this works.

3) I have 2 530T window control modules. The door has a connector for the door wiring in the door jam rather than a conduit for wires so I can't pull the wires to the door. Should I just wire the 530T to the cabin side wiring? Would it work? I'm not sure if the driver's window wires go thru the connector to the cabin side.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!

For the Tach, try a Fuel Injector.  I believe the common wire is Blue, so any other color should be a good Tach signal.

Think the rule of thumb for Viper is Ford= F.I. and Chrysler = Coil....

While the SJB is in the Passenger Kick Panel, it's not too high up, so finding the Door Locks wires isn't too bad.  Should be

in connector C,  which is near the top on the left side of the SJB.  Your colors are correct.  I prefer to get the Parking Lights at the SJB also ( Connector E, 13 Pin Plug, Pin 6 ).

Soldering is fun!

I switched to voltage tach and it works now. I don't think I want to hack into the engine wiring any more. I tested the wires and it's good but the alarm won't lock and unlock the doors. I found the wires at the sjb but they're not the easiest to get to. There was a guide for the F150 to tap into the driver's side wires so I'm trying that but I can't seem to find them. I'm not sure why it didn't work on the pass side. I tested the wires from the module and it's putting out power on both wires. Most of the wiring info I got was specific to my truck so I thought it'd be easier. Ugh.

I found the Drivers Kick Panel with the Parking Brake difficult to work around and went to the SJB.  Working in the PKP does require a bit of ambidexterity.....Soldering is fun!

Ok, so the driver's side wasn't such a great idea. I can't even find the wires :-/. I just don't get why it won't work on the passenger side. I have an 18" extension on the end of the stock lead that's a little thicker gauge. Could that be the problem? I tested to the end of the wire and it's getting a good signal. If it matters, I have the oem keyless entry. I know others have this and tapped into those wires w/o issue.

Extending the Vipers' door lock output wires when necessary  is common and, properly soldered, shouldn't be an issue.  After locating and verifying the F150's lock wires, you can test them with a fused jumper wire going to chassis ground.Soldering is fun!

I can definitely try that.

Could it be that the alarm module isn't sending out a strong enough pulse? I'm seeing about 5v from the module.

I also found a pair of wires, same color, that's always hot and blinks off when the locks are engaged on or off.

There are a lot of wires that share that same color combination in your truck.  That's why picking them up right at the SJB connector makes it easier.  Here is a link to a DEI Tech Document that goes into some detail on lock systems :

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=708

The Viper should be outputting a solid (-) ground pulse as the lock / unlock signal.  You could test it by using the signal to

operate a SPDT relay coil.

Soldering is fun!

It looks like I have Type B locks. And the wiring diagrams that I've seen confirm this.

[IMG]https://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/rchay/Other/PowerLocks.jpg[/IMG]

Obviously I'm missing something.

The wires I connected were ground and pulsed (hot)  when door locks were activated. The alarm is sending a pulse (-) that I see on my dmm when tested.

Yep, SJB connector C, pins 4 and 17, Unlock & Lock.  Test wires with a Digital Multi Meter set to 20V DC, Red lead on +12V and Black lead on suspect wire.  DMM should go to +12V with lock/unlock pulse.Soldering is fun!