Cloned Keys and iDatalink

I'm doing a remote starter install on my 2008 Ford Ranger. As I was about to plug in the module bypass I read that I need two OEM Keys and can't use cloned keys, however, this is a huge problem for me. Last year I lost my ignition key. I only had one as the previous owner of the truck lost the other, I had a locksmith make me two new keys which I'm sure are just clones, so how can I complete my install? Is there a way around this or to make my truck believe my clones keys are OEM?

Three choices

1. Do a "key-in-the-box"  install using one of your 3 keys hidden in a Directed 556UW module.

2. The iDatalink bypass can be used with their KLON process and just one key.  However, you will need the FM2 firmware loaded on the bypass module, the ADS USB cable ( $35 ), and registered access to the iDatalink WebLink WEB site.  Here is a link :  http://www.idatalink.com/weblink/user/registration

3. Go to a Ford dealer and get a new master, non-clone, key made and programmed.  With the two unique keys you can program a standard bypass module or add more keys available for under $10.

Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the reply. The only option of the three I don't understand is the first one. What exactly is a "key-in-the-box" install and what does it entail?

The KIB install is where you take a working key and place it in a universal transponder bypass module like a Directed 556UW.This module is controlled by the remote start unit and is turned on during a remote start.  It transfers the keys' transponderchip info to the cars ignition switch antenna via a wire loop that was placed in position during the install.  While very simple,it works well.  The main down-side is that a fully functional key is left ( albeit hidden under the dash ) in the car.Soldering is fun!

Back in the dark ages when transponder keys first appeared, it was a somewhat normal practice to make your own bypass. Take a working key and wrap 22 guage solid comm type wire around the head a dozen wraps. Then repeat going around the ignition lock sensor. Put a relay triggered from the es and you had a fully functioning bypass that cost less than $3.00 and needed no programming. A key in box module is the same thing, just not so prehistoric.

Accourding to kreg357 there are 3 options for bypassing the immobilizer:

kreg357 wrote: Three choices 1. Do a "key-in-the-box"  install using one of your 3 keys hidden in a Directed 556UW module. 2. The iDatalink bypass can be used with their KLON process and just one key.  However, you will need the FM2 firmware loaded on the bypass module, the ADS USB cable ( $35 ), and registered access to the iDatalink WebLink WEB site.  Here is a link :  http://www.idatalink.com/weblink/user/registration 3. Go to a Ford dealer and get a new master, non-clone, key made and programmed.  With the two unique keys you can program a standard bypass module or add more keys available for under $10.

My situation is a little different. I don't have a Car Starter that I want to install. I have a 2002 Honda Civic with only 1 Chipped Key (I have not idea if it is the "Master" or if this even matters). I refuse to pay ~$200 to have a 2nd Key cut and reprogrammed. This is my car, and as far as I am concerned it should be "My" choice as to whether or not I want to bypass the immobilizer permanently - and this is what I'd like to do. Of the options kreg357 mentioned it sounds like the first one (Key-in-the-box) would be the simplest, but I'd rather not have the ONLY good key in the car permanently. My question is . . . I see idatalink has a module for my car (ADS-AL(DL)-HA1) . . . is it possible to Program this bypass 'without' an actual car starter to act as my permanent bypass? Thanks for the assistance.

OK. Yes, I agree that it is your free choice to disable the transponder based immobilizer system in you vehicle. Please remember that if your car were to be stolen and the insurance company discovered that the immobilizer system was intentionally disabled by you, they might not pay for the loss. That being said, you could achieve this in many ways. You could carefully remove the transponder chip from your only working key and secure the chip on or adjacent to the immobilizer systems antenna at the ignition cylinder. This would be the least expensive way to do it. Then you could use this key and other plain metal keys that were cut to fit your lock cylinder. The next cheapest way would be to buy and install a bypass module that can be programmed to your Civic with only one key. There are several choices. Going by price, the Fortin Honda SL3 might be the best. Here is a link to the install guide : http://fortin.ca/download/27521/honda-sl3.revzc.pdf   You would follow the Type 1 diagram for transponder connections and the Plan 2 diagram for module power. Power would come from the thick White wire at the ignition harness and Chassis Ground from a convenient ground screw in the DKP area. Module control comes from the Blue wire marked (-) While Running. There are a couple of ways to do this. The simplest would be to connect this wire to chassis ground through a switch. Mount the switch in a hidden yet accessible place. Turn it ON to start the engine and turn it OFF when you park the car. Another way would be to connect this wire to the Civic's Keysense wire. The Keysense wire goes to chassis ground when a key is inserted into the ignition cylinder. The Keysense wire is RED / WHITE (-) AT IGNITION SWITCH. There are other bypass modules that can be programmed with only one key that could be used. Here are a few : Fortin Key-Override-All Directed PKALL Directed PKH34 iDatalink ADS-TBSL-HA iDatalink ADS-TBSL-KO Soldering is fun!