First time installing remote start. 93 accord

I'm trying to hook up an alarm/remote start system to my cb7. I've got everything down working right except the remote start and I need some assistance. Heres how I have everything wired up... Manual transmission Main Harness (H1) H1/1 Red - (+)12vDC constant input (white ignition wire) h1/2 black - (-) chassis ground (grounded) h1/3 brown - (+) siren output (red siren wire) h1/4 WHITE/ brown - parking light isolation wire (not used) h1/5 white - parking light output (connect and works) H2 Harness, 24-pin h2/1 pink/white - (-) 200ma igntion/flex relay control output (do i need this connected? where?) h2/2 BLACK/ white - (-) neutral safety input (grounded) h2/3 blue/white - (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output h2/4 GREEN/ black - (-) oem alarm disarm output h2/5 RED / white - (-) 200ma trunk release output h2/6 green - (-) door trigger input (connected and works) h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW - (-) 200ma dome light supervision output h2/8 bronw/black - (-) 200ma horn honk output h2/9 dark blue - (-) 200ma status output (do i need this connected? where?) h2/10 pink - (-) 200ma ignition 1 output (do i need this connected? where?) h2/11 WHITE/ black - (-) 200ma aux 3 output h2/12 violet - (+) door trigger input h2/13 WHITE/ violet - (-) 200ma aux 1 output h2/14 violet/black - (-) 200 ma aux 2 output h2/15 ORANGE / black - (-) 200ma aux 4 outut h2/16 brown - (+) brake shutdown input (connected at light green wire at brake switch) h2/17 grey - (-) hood pin input h2/18 violet / YELLOW - (-) 200ma starter output (do i need this connected and where?) h2/19 blue - (-) trunk pink/instant trigger input h2/20 grey/black - (-) diesel wait to start output h2/21 WHITE/ blue - (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input h2/22 orange - (-) 200ma accessory output (do i need this connected and where?) h2/23 violet/white - tachometer input (read that this wire is not necessary?) h2/24 GREEN / WHITE - (-) 200ma oem alarm arm output Remote Start H3 h3/1 pink - (+) ignition 1 input/output (BLACK / YELLOW ignition is this correct) h3/2 RED / white - (87) flex relay +12v input (white igntion is this correct) h3/3 orange - (+) accessory output (WHITE/ black igntion is this correct) h3/4 violet - (+) starter output (car side of starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition car side) h3/5 green - (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition key side) h3/6 red - ignition 1 +12v input (white ignition) h3/7 pink/white - (30) flex relay output (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) (yellow ignition wire) h3/8 pink/black - (87a) flex relay input (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) (not using do i need this) h3/9 RED / black - accessory/starter relay +12v input (WHITE/ black ignition) h3/10 - no connection Okay guys this is how I have it hooked up. This is obviously my first time doing this and need assistance with the remote start. When I have it hooked up like this I can't even start my car with the key or remote start. What am I doing wrong? When I try remote start my [arking lights flash 7 times but doesn't start and the key won't even start it.

Here is the H3 wiring :

 Remote Start H3

h3/1 pink - (+) ignition 1 input/output BLACK / YELLOW @ ignition switch harnessh3/2 RED / white - (87) flex relay +12v input    not usedh3/3 orange - (+) accessory output Yellow @ ignition switch harnessh3/4 violet - (+) starter output (car side)     cut         BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harnessh3/5 green - (+) starter input (key side)      cut         BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harnessh3/6 red - ignition 1 +12v input        white @ ignition switch harness h3/7 pink/white - (30) flex relay output          not usedh3/8 pink/black - (87a) flex relay input          not used h3/9 RED / black - acc/starter relay +12v input   white @ ignition switch harness h3/10 - no connection

Soldering is fun!

Here is the 24 Pin connector :

H2 Harness, 24-pin

h2/1 pink/white - (-) 200ma igntion/flex relay control output        not usedh2/2 BLACK/ white - (-) neutral safety input           (grounded) h2/3 blue/white - (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output h2/4 GREEN/ black - (-) oem alarm disarm output h2/5 RED / white - (-) 200ma trunk release output h2/6 green - (-) door trigger input         (connected and works)    *h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW - (-) 200ma dome light supervision output h2/8 bronw/black - (-) 200ma horn honk output h2/9 dark blue - (-) 200ma status output           not usedh2/10 pink - (-) 200ma ignition 1 output not usedh2/11 WHITE/ black - (-) 200ma aux 3 output      not usedh2/12 violet - (+) door trigger input      not usedh2/13 WHITE/ violet - (-) 200ma aux 1 output      not usedh2/14 violet/black - (-) 200 ma aux 2 output     not usedh2/15 ORANGE / black - (-) 200ma aux 4 outut     not usedh2/16 brown - (+) brake shutdown input           (connected at light green wire at brake switch) **h2/17 grey - (-) hood pin input important - install kit supplied hood pinh2/18 violet / YELLOW - (-) 200ma starter output                not used h2/19 blue - (-) trunk pink/instant trigger input Trunk Pin  GREEN/ black (-) @ green plug left of column h2/20 grey/black - (-) diesel wait to start output            not usedh2/21 WHITE/ blue - (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input    not usedh2/22 orange - (-) 200ma accessory output   not usedh2/23 violet/white - tachometer input mandatory for MT vehicles ***h2/24 GREEN / WHITE - (-) 200ma oem alarm arm output          

* Does this monitor all doors?

** Brake (+) should be GREEN / WHITE @ brake pedal switch*** Tachometer  blue (ac)   @ distributor

Soldering is fun!

Your main hurdle is properly bypassing the clutch pedal interlock switch.  When you start your car with the key you mustfirst depress the clutch pedal.  The remote starter won't be able to start the car because no one is in there depressingthe clutch pedal.  I have no info on that vehicle about the clutch interlock.  You will have to use a Digital Multi Meter totest it and see what happens during a key start-up ( unless another member has that info available ).   You might need a relay to do the job correctly.  Adding a remote start system to a manual transmission vehicle is more difficult becauseof this but it has to be done as a safety, you don't want the car starting in gear and killing some kid playing in the driveway.Soldering is fun!

I didn't check to see if did monitor all the doors, something I need to check. Thanks for the reply. I'll tackle this here in the next week or so once I get some more free time and I'll update you with what's going on.

Well the door trigger is an issue. It's not trigger alarm when it is armed and door opens. No doors. I had bought an alarm off of ebay reman. Had issues with the unlock when disarming where it wouldn't unlock. It was at a steady -0.01 so I sent it back and got this other one. Same model and everything but with the one I sent back the door trigger zone worked but this one doesn't work and also when I arm the alarm I get a chirp and about 3 seconds later I get another chirp where as the other one had one chirp. From what I've read when you have that second chirp it's a bypass notification and alerting theirs an active trigger zone. Could possibly another trigger zone wire be touching another wire or ground somewhere and cause a zone to be active and not allowing the door trigger zone not to function properly?

Okay the door trigger issues is fixed. I had other wires from the 24 pin harness exposed and the + door trigger was touching a wire making it active by passing the door alarm trigger so the wire I have the - door trigger monitors all doors. I hooked the remote start portion up like kreg357 said to do but it still didn't work. There is a forum specifically for my car and I went by the how to on their website... Now this is how I have it... nu = not using H2 Harness, 24-pin h2/1 pink/white - (-) 200ma igntion/flex relay control output (nu) h2/2 BLACK/ white - (-) neutral safety input (connected to ebrake switch) h2/3 blue/white - (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output (nu) h2/4 GREEN/ black - (-) oem alarm disarm output (nu) h2/5 RED / white - (-) 200ma trunk release output (nu) h2/6 green - (-) door trigger input (works and monitors all doors) h2/7 BLACK / YELLOW - (-) 200ma dome light supervision output (nu) h2/8 bronw/black - (-) 200ma horn honk output (nu) h2/9 dark blue - (-) 200ma status output (grounded) h2/10 pink - (-) 200ma ignition 1 output (nu) h2/11 WHITE/ black - (-) 200ma aux 3 output (nu) h2/12 violet - (+) door trigger input (nu) h2/13 WHITE/ violet - (-) 200ma aux 1 output (nu) h2/14 violet/black - (-) 200 ma aux 2 output (nu) h2/15 ORANGE / black - (-) 200ma aux 4 outut (nu) h2/16 brown - (+) brake shutdown input (connected at GREEN / WHITE wire at brake switch) h2/17 grey - (-) hood pin input (nu) h2/18 violet / YELLOW - (-) 200ma starter output (nu) h2/19 blue - (-) trunk instant trigger input (nu) h2/20 grey/black - (-) diesel wait to start output (nu) h2/21 WHITE/ blue - (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input (nu) h2/22 orange - (-) 200ma accessory output (nu) h2/23 violet/white - tachometer input (connected to blue wire at dstrobutot) h2/24 GREEN / WHITE - (-) 200ma oem alarm arm output (nu) Remote Start H3 h3/1 pink - (+) ignition 1 input/output (BLACK / YELLOW ignition) h3/2 RED / white - (87) flex relay +12v input (white 12v constant) h3/3 orange - (+) accessory output (WHITE/ black igntion) h3/4 violet - (+) starter output (car side of starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition car side) Do i need a relay for this area h3/5 green - (+) starter input (key side of the starter kill) (BLACK/ white ignition key side) h3/6 red - ignition 1 +12v input (white 12v constant) h3/7 pink/white - (30) flex relay output (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) (yellow ignition wire) h3/8 pink/black - (87a) flex relay input (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) (nu) h3/9 RED / black - accessory/starter relay +12v input (white 12v constant) h3/10 - no connection This is how that forum shows the how to but it isnt working for me. I tried the other way I was told on here too and no go. I'm assuming theirs an internal relay in the brain for the starter wires and with the main harness connected the relay opens and nothing triggers it to close and when the main harness is disconnected the relay is closed allowing me to start. Heres my youtube video https://youtu.be/kLo5NW7ISUA

Do I need to bypass the clutch switch with the remote start hooked up even to start it with the key?

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT (BLACK / YELLOW ignition 1) H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) (white 12v constant) H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT (yellow accessory) H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) (BLACK/ white starter car side) H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) (BLACK/ white key side) H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) (BLACK / YELLOW ignition 1) H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) (BLACK/ white starter car side) H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) (BLACK/ white starter key side) H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) (yellow accessory) H3/10 NC No Connection Okay I'm not getting any help here guys. Now this is how I currently have it set up and NOW I can at least start the car with the key this way and I couldn't get it to start with the key until I connected the h3/8 to the starter key side which I've seen many places say it's not needed or used. Since I'm past this point I can't get the vehicle to remote start and can not figure it out. I've learned the tach with a 1 parking light flash but can't get any further. When I go to remote start it I get the error tone on my remote fob and I get a 7 parking light flash which states Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized. How do I initialize it?

I still stand by my original post for the H3 harness, as follows :

 Remote Start H3 h3/1 pink - (+) ignition 1 input/output BLACK / YELLOW @ ignition switch harnessh3/2 RED / white - (87) flex relay +12v input    not usedh3/3 orange - (+) accessory output Yellow @ ignition switch harnessh3/4 violet - (+) starter output (car side)     cut         BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harnessh3/5 green - (+) starter input (key side)      cut         BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harnessh3/6 red - ignition 1 +12v input        white @ ignition switch harness h3/7 pink/white - (30) flex relay output          not usedh3/8 pink/black - (87a) flex relay input          not used h3/9 RED / black - acc/starter relay +12v input   white @ ignition switch harness h3/10 - no connection

I see one major mistake in your H3 wiring and I'll assume another due to the symptoms.

All the Red and RED / xxx wires normally go the +12V constant.  No exceptions.  However, your car does not need the H3/7

Flex relay output, so H3/7, H3/8 and H3/2 are not used.  That means H3/6 and H3/9 get +12V constant inputs from the carsWhite wire at the ignition harness.  Therefore, the H3/8 wire is not used and should not be connected to the vehicle.  That also means that if you cut any wire other than the BLACK/ White Starter wire, reconnect it immediately. 

The Viper is a complicated high-end system.  There are several programming features that need to be set for you install

and some other things are required due to the manual transmission.  As follows :1.   All door triggers must be connected and working properly for the alarm system and more importantly for the R/S to      monitor all the doors because of the manual transmission.2.  You must set the Viper to Engine Checking = Tach.  This is another requirement of the manual transmission install.3.  You must do a successful Viper Tach Learn to establish the proper Tach setting prior to attempting a remote start.4.  You must find a way to bypass the cars clutch interlock.  This bypass will ONLY be during a remote start, not a permanent     bypass.  This is mandatory and a very important safety feature.5.  You must follow the Viper guides instructions for setting up / entering Reservation Mode to enable a remote start.      This is a specific set of steps that are taken during shutdown to ensure a safe remote start up.  They are listed in the guide.

Adding this Viper system should not change or interfere with the normal operation of the car.  It will still start normally with the key.

Soldering is fun!