98 Toyota Paseo factory immobilizer

Hi! I have a 98 Paseo, manual transmission, and I'm trying to install a Predator 4001 remote engine starter system. Since I don't have the wiring diagram of the car, I have encountered a few problems and I would really appreciate any information that would help: 1. I'm not able to locate the factory immobilizer's disarm wire. Browsing the forum, I saw that for the 97 version this wire is a WHITE/ Blue (-) wire at the Anti-Theft Module behind the radio. I've searched for this module and I've found a black one in that location that carries the inscription "Relays Assy / Running Lights". Is this the one, 'cause it seems that it's the only module in that area ? If so, for the 98 Paseo, there is no WHITE/ Blue wire for Factory Disarm, and no WHITE/ Green wire that would arm the immobilizer. However, I saw 2 WHITE/ Black wires, one next to the other, but... Could anyone tell me which wire to use, please ? Predator provides a disarm (-) output wire that gives a 0.75 second ground output and an arm (-) output wire that can be programmed to give a single 2 second (-) output pulse or 2 pulses. Would this normally suffice ? 2. The Predator 4001 provides a wire (PINK) for the ignition. The 98 Paseo has 2 ignition wires: ignition 1 (BLACK / YELLOW) and ignition 2 (BLACK/ Red). I measured the tension on ingnition 2 with the key out of the contact, and I've got a +12V (?!). The manual for Predator says, and I quote: "Ignition Most vehicles have only one ignition wire. If an additional wire is required to remote start the vehicle, a 30/40 amp relay must be added. Do not use the PINK wire to power more than one ignition wire. - use a voltmeter to locate the wire(s) that show +12 volts while the ignition key is in the "ON", "CRANK" and "RUN" positions and 0 volts when the ignition key is in the "OFF" position. - Connect the PINK wire to the vehicle ignition wire." Now, how should I use the 30/40 amp relay for the second ignition wire, since this ignition wire already shows +12 volts when the ignition key is out ? Or this wire actually doesn't need to be tapped in, in order to remote start the car ? 3. Regarding the tach wire, I just want to be sure I got the right connector (see the other postings regarding the connector located near the driver's shock / strut tower): is it the third (BLACK/ Blue) wire from the bottom of the connector, when the connector is plugged in ? I would like to thank everyone for their time spent to read my post and for your reply. Winter is coming fast and I would really like to finish installing this starter! ;-) Dorian

Thank you snguyen! You were really fast !!! It seems that the colours for the wires at the ignition switch harness have changed between them from 97 to 98... I'll also look for the arm / disarm wires at the kick panel. Thanks man, you were great !

The arm and disarm wires for that vehicle should be at the driver kickpanel. You could also test them with you digital meter by inserting your key in the driver key cylinder when you lock or unlock you will get your reading on your meter. is your car automatic or stick? if it's stick hope your careful when you remote start it, don't leave it in gear. for your second ignition you could wire a relay and use the same output for the 1st ignition to trigger your relay for your second ignition to get energized. good luck on your install.

Hi nava94 ! Thank you. I'll do my best not to forget to leave the stick on neutral (I'm aware that otherwise this would cause a disaster...) and I'll also hope that the brakes won't get stuck when there'll be minus 40 again... I also hope that inserting the key in the driver's key cylinder would give me an answer, even though I've tried to lock the door with the key, leaving the window down, then opened the door from the inside switch and... started the engine. If the arm / disarm wires were connected to the door key cylinder, the engine probably should not have started. However, I'll try this too. I would also like to thank you for the tip regarding the relay. Dorian