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2005 Scion TC - Clifford RSX3.2 help


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f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 17, 2005 at 1:23 PM / IP Logged  
hi all,
i've been checking out this website for a short while and there is so much good information and the users are so helpful. now is my time for help.
i attempted to install a Clifford RSX3.2 alarm and remote start last night. it took way longer than i expected but i was in the zone to get it completed. i am close but not quite there. the car remote starts perfectly and i was so excited that i got it to work! it's good to have an electrical background!
problem 1: i cannot find the passenger door trigger. i am using the directwire diagram. http://directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=5681&product=Remote%20Start
i found the driver's door negative trigger but will not wire it up until i find the passenger trigger since i must diode-isolate the signals and put them into one zone. i know which plug it is because when i remove it, the "door open" signal goes away. it's also one of those plugs which can separate so i even narrowed it down to the "middle" part of the 3-part plug. i metered all the connections on this middle part of the plug that was getting 12 volts. however, when i open the passenger door and meter the same wires, none of them go to ground or negative trigger. what am i doing wrong? i've read and i've been told now to trust the wiring diagrams. you must verify each wire.
problem 2: does this alarm have an anti-grind relay buil-in? i think it does and i installed it via the instructions. problem is... when i remote start the car and turn the key to the start position to make sure the antigrind works properly, the car shuts down. it immediately goes through the remote start process after i try to engage the starter and starts right back up. it's not supposed to work this way is it?
problem 3: i have the siren mounted but do not have the siren connected to the brain. i know... what good is an alarm without a siren. however, it was getting late and i was just trying to get the car back together because i knew i had questions i had to clear up first. has anyone worked on this car and know a great place to run wires from the cabin to the engine?
problem 4: trunk release was working at first but now it does not. the TC doesn't have a lever. the trunk is unlocked via 2 unlock pulses or a pulse on the orange wire "truck/hatch release." i assumed since it was like this that there was a relay powering it. i might have been wrong but now the trunk release no longer works. it worked about 5 times when i was testing it out. did i mess up this part of the alarm?
sorry it's so long but thanks in advance for your help, guys.
KarTuneMan 
Platinum - Posts: 7,056
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: January 17, 2005 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  

The only one of your questions I might be able to help with (maybe....maybe NOT ) your trunk pop.

Did you use a relay.....? They need a SOLID ground.  Check your output wire on the unit.....it might be toast. Does the trunk release work normally. If so.....use a realy

f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 17, 2005 at 5:39 PM / IP Logged  
i don't have the keysense wire hooked up but this shouldn't be a problem since i do not have the factory alarm system, right?
also, for the 2nd starter for the car, i used a relay..
30 - constant 12v
85/86 - 1st starter wire/ground
87 - output to 2nd starter
i did it this way instead of hooking it up to the 4-pin "auxiliary relay output harness." will this cause a problem?
f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 17, 2005 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged  
that's my question... is a relay required? i went out again and tested it earlier and it would indeed pop the trunk. then it stopped working. i might be pulling too much current with the trunk pop but since it is negative trigger... i kinda assumed that it was hooked up to a relay.
f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 18, 2005 at 6:48 AM / IP Logged  
c'mon guys... i've seen you give advice or possible solutions on easier questions. i need help.
with regards to my problem 2,
since there are two starter wires, do i need to cut both of them? i just cut the 1st starter wire and tested it and the car would not start. i connected that to the clifford's starter kill circuit. the starter kill does not perform the anti-grind and maybe that's why my car shuts down when i try to engage the starter when it's already remote started?
i didn't cut the second starter wire but i did hook it up so that there is current when a relay is energized from the first starter relay.
KarTuneMan 
Platinum - Posts: 7,056
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: January 18, 2005 at 11:23 AM / IP Logged  

How do you have yopur relay wired on your starter wire,   AND, I would say yes to doing BOTH wires?

What happens when you remote start and turn the key to RUN.....? does it run, if so I'd say that your anti-grind works perfectly..........by stopping the motor......it didn't grind, Rite2005 Scion TC - Clifford RSX3.2 help -- posted image.

Did ya get your trunk pop figured out?

jaurora 
Silver - Posts: 429
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Joined: January 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 18, 2005 at 2:32 PM / IP Logged  

The vehicle operates like a nissan. One starter wire and one cold start wire! Yes both wires need to be connectect as the starter wire.

As for the trunk pop I have to agree with KTM, I think that you blew the output on the brain. Mabey this could be the cause of the starter issues? to much current through the wire may have cooked someother components. You may have to use an AUX channel connected to a relay for the trunk pop.

When it come to running wires through the firewall it is always in good practice to use an existing factory grommet, if you must drill a hole, use common sense on location. Look for a good location where you wont be drilling through your brake system ect... You should only drill a hole sufficent in size to run the ammount of wires to go into the engine compartment. Use a rubber grommet in the previously drilled hole instead.

MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy
f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 18, 2005 at 5:26 PM / IP Logged  
so, i must cut both starter wires right? the regular starter AND the cold start wire?
f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 19, 2005 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged  

ok.  i got the wires run through the firewall.  a buddy helped me and noticed a grommet on the far driver's side of the firewall behind the wheel well.  difficult to see but he had a sharp eye.

trunk pop works intermittenly and i do no know why.  i installed the relay and it's pulling 126mA from the AUX output which is within range.  the relays clicks everytime i activate the AUX button.  problem is... the trunk only unlocked the first time and ceased to do so aftewards.  i measured the current when to the trunk release wire and it was only pulling 6mA.  anyone have an idea what is wrong?

with regards to the starter wire issue.... i did some research and i read on this forum that the 2nd starter wire is a cold start wire that provides additional voltage to the coil in cold start conditions.  And.... the reason this wire is not in use all the time is because it can prematurely burn out the coil if it is activated every time.  how can i leave this "feature" in tact where the 2nd starter wire supplements the 1st starter wire only when it is needed.

currently, i have the 2nd starter wire hooked up to a relay which is activated by the 1st starter wire.  i did not use the 2nd starter wire relay output wire that is located on the alarm.  does anyone know how the 2nd starter relay output wire works like a cold start starter wire?

basically, i don't want to damage the starter coil as someone in this forum said it might happen.  please advise.

jaurora - are you saying i should just tie the 1st and 2nd starter wires together?

f00dstamps 
Copper - Posts: 132
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 24, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 17, 2005 at 1:00 AM / IP Logged  
this was fixed a long time ago but here is an update. i tied both starter wires together and the car no longer shuts down when the key is turned to the start position during remote start.
the trunk release does not work when the car is armed. if disarmed, the trunk release works.

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