If you can post a link to the wiring diagram of your starter unit. We can probably help you out a bit more.
"1) How do I connect the two ignition wires, if relay, how and where to connect the relay ? What type of relay, 3/4/5 connection relay, SPDT or other types ?"
This is how.
Your standard SPDT relay will do.
"2) Are all the starter wires just anchoRED / connected to the car wires, or should I be cutting any of these wires ?"
Don't cut your starter wire, just connected directly to the car starter wire.
"3) Why does the installation require a connection to my air conditioner, if I don't connect it, what functionality am I loosing ?"
I don't either. Never in my career had I needed to make a connection like the way it has suggested.
"4) Do I need any diodes or fuses, in the new circuits for a safety or precautionery measure >"
Fuse yes and it should be place at the +12V constant source. If one is provided for you, you will not need to add another.
"5) If I test these connections, am I risking anything, like damaging my alternator or starter or something else ?"
No, testing your wire first is stardard practice and a must. Make sure you have a digital multimeter and don't use a test light. Digital multimeter will not damage some sensitive electronic circuit in your car.
"6) Noted a mismatch in the wiring info for my Toyota Corolla 1998 Auto LE. Some sources say that Black Yellow is Ignition #1, and Black-White is Ignition #2, and some say vice-versa. Can somebody verify ? Also does it make a difference in the relay connections as to which is Ignition #1 and which is #2?"
Yes, it does. It the difference between remote starting and not remote starting. A wiring diagram below will help you sort things out. Here the way to test.
IGNITION 1 - This wire will test with the key switch in the run AND start position, but never in the accessory position.
SECOND IGNITION - Second ignition will test one of two ways. It will test with the key switch in run position only, or will test just like main ignition. Like main ignition, it will never show power in the accessory position. If the second ignition shows power only in the run position then the accessory output of a remote start device may be used to power the wire.
ACCESSORY - This wire will test with the key switch in the accessory and run position, but never in the start position. Some cars do not have an accessory wire.
STARTER - Changes state only when the key switch is held in the start position. Interrupting this wire will keep the starter from engaging. Triggering the wire will spin the starter motor.
"7) The 12 V constant, in the starter installations, i got the source from the ignition harness itself, i noted in several places, that it is recommended to take it directly from battery ? Any input from people who've installed their starters ?"
For your car, you can take the 12V constant at the harness. If you have other application connection to the 12V constant and can draw a lot of current. Then connect the 12V constant to the battery is recommended. For remote starter/alarm application on your car I always use the 12V constant at the ignition harness.
"8) Can I use the tachometer wire behind the instrument panel, or should I be connecting at the ignition coil in the engine bay ? Can I use the battery charge or oil pressure wires behind the instrument panel instead ?"
Ignition coil is the least painful way to do the work.
Tachometer, use either YELLOW /GREEN, RED / blue, grey, or white at any ignition coil.
Wiring diagram below to help you sort things out.
DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / COROLLA / 1998 / Remote Start
12volts white + ignition harness
Starter red + ignition harness
Second Starter
Ignition BLACK/ white + ignition harness
Second Ignition BLACK / YELLOW + ignition harness
Third Ignition
Accessory blue/red + ignition harness
Second Accessory
Keysense
Power Lock blue/black - R side of fuse box, wht plug
Notes: The lock wires are about 18 gauge. They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself.
Power Unlock GREEN / WHITE - R side of fuse box, wht plug
Notes: The lock wires are about 18 gauge. They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself.
Lock Motor blue drivers kick panel
Unlock Motor red drivers kick panel
Parking Lights+ green bottom of fuse box
Parking Lights- lt GREEN/ black steering column
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Reverse Light
Door Trigger RED / white - instrument cluster or
Notes: Also found at the fuse box. There are at least 5 RED / white wires at the fuse box, some will only pick up individual doors, meter them to find the one that will get all the doors, it will be the one that goes up to the instrument cluster, it is in a 12 pin plug on the back of the fusebox. For domelight supervision use one of the individual door triggers.
Dome Supervision
Notes: Also found at the fuse box. There are at least 5 RED / white wires at the fuse box, some will only pick up individual doors, meter them to find the one that will get all the doors, it will be the one that goes up to the instrument cluster, it is in a 12 pin plug on the back of the fusebox. For domelight supervision use one of the individual door triggers.
Trunk/Hatch Pin RED / white - light in trunk
Notes: On vehicle with the factory alarm, can find these wires at the alarm module above the drivers kick panel.
Hood Pin red - hood pin
Notes: On vehicle with the factory alarm, can find these wires at the alarm module above the drivers kick panel.
Trunk/Hatch Release
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock
Tachometer yel/grn, RED / blu, gry, or wht ac any ignition coil
Wait to start
Brake Wire GREEN / WHITE + brake switch
Parking Brake
Horn Trigger GREEN/ red - steering column
Memory Seat 1
Memory Seat 2
Memory Seat 3
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A
Notes: N/A
This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.