Avital 2300 install in a 91 S10 Blazer

I've got the wiring diagrams and everything for this. I have a 1991 Chevy S10 Blazer, 2WD, 2Door, 4.3L V6, 3-speed automatic, power locks and windows. I have an Avital 2300 security system and a DEI proximity sensor wired up. Alarm works, door pin works, proximity works, knock works, parking lights work. Things that don't work: Door lock/unlock: I completely dissasembled my dash, door, kickpanels on the driver's side, and can't get to the wiring from the door, and the wiring dissapears into the body from the door. Nothing under the kick panel like I expect. Where are these wires? Pictures would help out a ton. Starter kill/remote start/horn: Again, dash was completely dissasembled. There are three wiring harnesses coming out of the wheel, I disconnected each individually and all of them, trying to start each time, and each time the truck started fine, heat/ac/lights/guages/horn all worked. Where are the starter and horn wires? I know they're supposed to be purple and black respectively (the horn wire is brownish /at/ the button, but it dissapears into the wheel from there.) I would expect that disconnecting all of the wiring harnesses under the wheel would affect /something/... Window roll up: I'm fairly certain this requires an add-on module, but I'm interested in getting it working either way. Where are the power window wires? Same problem as the door locks above, the wiring harness from the door just dissapears into the body when it hits it from the door hinge. Trunk release: I have a rear window release button on the dash, but it seems to be connected straight to the solonoid. What's the best way to hook that up so I can pop it with the remote? Also, is there a door pin switch on the rear window, or would I have to wire one up to add that in as a door sensor? Pictures would be amazingly helpful, if anyone has them. My truck confuses everyone that works on it, because things aren't always where they are supposed to be. Thanks a lot for the help!

For the door lock wires you need to actually go into the boot that runs from the door to the body. It really sucks but the wires are there. You do need a module to do the window roll-up and the  wires for that are behind the door panel on the drivers side at the switch. There is no pin on the rear glass that I know of so you will have to add one if you want it. As for the glass pop you need to test the wires comming from the switch and see what they test at when the button is pressed. I think its a positive trigger but i cant remember for sure. Either way use a relay and hook up the RED / white wire comming off the brain of the alarm as your trigger.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

"For the door lock wires you need to actually go into the boot that runs from the door to the body. It really sucks but the wires are there." Is there any way to route the wires inside the vehicle? I don't want to have a bunch of wires getting crushed in the door every time it closes. I don't want to have to drill a hole in the body behind the kickpanel, especially considering how akward it is getting down there with a screwdriver to begin with. Any idea on the starter/horn wires? Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. Somebody needs to make a database of pictures for various car models and installs. :)

Afterthought: Setting up a pin switch for the rear window, would that be a standard spst pushbutton switch? and would it be closed when pushed or when released? I'm going to make a radio shack run on the way home to wire that up :)

Realistically you can use any type of switch you want for your rear pin, just make sure that you use the correct polarity. As for the door lock wires, you can route the wires into the vehicle but you are gonna need to pull the ebrake assembly off to do it. Its not a very fun thing to do and if I remeber right there is no easy way to do the locks. The starter wire is in under the column, I dont know why you cant seem to find it, you have the right colors? As for the horn I have never looked for it so I am unsure as to where it is.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

ok, since both driver and passenger side unlock and lock both, i found a way to get to a wiring harness for the passenger side door locks. tapping into that will allow control over both. The alarm manual states that it needs a dual relay (even though it has two relays built in) because my locks are a reversing polarity system. I have two of the right relays, wired as follows: Alarm harness: BLACK/ white: domelight supervision normally open: no connection WHITE/ black: lock #87A normally closed: relay1 #87A GREEN/ black: lock #30 common (output): relay1 #86 violet/black: lock #87 normally open (input): wired to violet, relay1 87+85, relay2 87+85, +12v BROWN / black: unlock #87A normally closed: wired to relay2 #87A blue/black: unlock #30 common (output): wired to relay2 #86 violet: wired to violet/black, relay1 87+85, relay2 87+85, +12v Relay1 #30: power lock switch wire (lt.blue) Relay2 #30: power unlock switch wire (BLACK/ white) The relays aren't even clicking. I think I might have to switch 30<->87A on both relays. I don't exactly understand how relays work. Any suggestions? It's a dirty mess of wires, that's for sure. Oh, I got the rear window pin switch wired up! woo!

alright, i got the relays wired up correctly, so they click and put out 12V on the lock and unlock outputs when the alarm tries to lock and unlock. The lt.blue and BLACK/ white wires in the door lock harness put out 12V when lock or unlock is pushed. i connect the relay outputs to the wires, set the alarm, and the radio/acc fuse blows. i went through three fuses yesterday before giving up for the night. any suggestions? for the record, the radio/acc fuse goes to the radio, the door locks, the rear window pop button in the dash, and the alarm system.

also, i'm wiring up two relays /in addition/ to the two relays built into my alarm system... are they even neccesary?