12v constant fuse problem

I have a 92 Chevy Lumina Euro (sedan). I had a Code Alarm CA610 installed over 2 years ago. I had the alarm installed when I worked for a local Retailer HHGregg. They no longer sell or support car audio or security.

I helped the installer do the install, I have car audio install experiance, but this was my first remote start install so I wanted to watch and learn. After helping him do my car I did my wifes CA 610 in her 97 Grand Am SE by myself. I also wired in 4 door actuaters for my lumina.

about a month ago my enterior dash lights went out and the alarm died all with in 24 hours after my car was jump started. Being buisy I never tore it down to look at it untill today after work. I dismatled the dash and found the 30amp fuse on the constant 12v was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew with in seconds of being installed.

I called the buddy that did 90% of the install (who now lives 2 hours away) he says that im grounded out some where and need to track it down.

Any help or advice for this amature would be greatly appriciated. Cold weather is getting closer in Indiana.

My constant 12v shows 12v on my DMM. How do I check the continuity to find the wire that is grounded out?

Would it not be smart to swap the 30amp bus fuse out for a 40amp.

Am I drawing more current due to the aftermarket doorlocks? If so why did it work for almost 2 years before I started blowing fuses.

THanks for the quick reply.

The dash is dropped already, the brain is on the floor.

The keyless was installed with in a week of the remote start.

I really wanted this done before work in the AM. Probably should of waited to do it till this weekend.

I'll be right back after another look.

Thanks again

I could not see any obvious cuts or bare wire. I took another look just to make sure I didnt miss anything on the first pass earlier this evening.

How do I test the continuity of the wire?

The white fuse holder on the upper right hand corner is the 12volt constant fuse. I traced the 12volt to the brain and back up to the ignition harnest and saw no bare metal.

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Thanks for the help fellas.

I found the problem. Not sure wich one fixed it but. The LED was unplugged from the brain and the control switch was shorted. I fixed both before trying another fused. This fuse has held up for the last hour of failed attemps to program.

I have the lock/arm, unlock/disarm, and trunk pop working.

I have tried to program the tach and remote start countless times, but cant get it to start from the remote.

Thanks for the help so far guys. Any more suggestions would be great!