2003 honda accord, aps-997

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honorabledog

Member - Posts: 23

Joined: June 19, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: September 22, 2006 at 11:43 AM / IP Logged

Hello everyone, A couple of months ago I installed an aps-997 into a 03 honda accord. I got alot of advice here on the install. Everything worked perfect for the past 2 months and all of a sudden 3 days ago the headlights stopped working. Customer called me, I checked the alarm and it's still working flawless, checked all fuses and the switch and it all checked out. The symptoms are hazards work, the parking lights turn on when the ignition is on and they stay on, no turn signals, and no headlights at all. I reccomended he take it to Honda and they said that the fuse box was blown and he ordered a new one. I told him I did not feel it was the fuse box..everything else works perfect. He asked me to swap it out for him cause honda wanted $500 to do it. I did it for him and I planned to give him the labor free if it fixed the problem but it did nothing to change the situation. Does anyone here have any reccomendations? If it's something I did when I installed the alarm then why has there been no other problems?

thepencil

Gold - Posts: 1,526

Joined: December 16, 2002

Location: Canada

Posted: September 22, 2006 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged

Have you got a second oppinion by a different dealer? You may want to verify that they say the same thing. Sometime you may even need a third if $$$$ is the issue. If I remember no headlight connection require on an alarm install on this particular vehicle.

Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. 2003 honda accord, aps-997 -- posted image.

KarTuneMan

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Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: September 22, 2006 at 12:31 PM / IP Logged

They said "the fuse box was blown" Don't that sound like a line of crap to you? seems to me, if the fuse box "blew" you might have a bit of a fire. Have you been to the under hood fuse box as well? Larger fuses are located there.

honorabledog

Member - Posts: 23

Joined: June 19, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: September 22, 2006 at 12:49 PM / IP Logged

Yea' I thought it was bs thats why I offered to do it for free if the fuse box was the problem. No there is a headlight wire for the alarm but its an option and the cust diddn't care if I diddn't use it so i diddn't. I have checked the fuses under the hood. Every thing seems fine. I'm going to pull the new fuse box back out so he can return it. thanks guys for replying. Any more ideas? I honestly feel since nothing else has been done to the car it must have been something I did.

honorabledog

Member - Posts: 23

Joined: June 19, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: September 23, 2006 at 5:09 AM / IP Logged

I was driving home to night when I remembered that the aps has a program feature for activating the lights during arming and when r/s. Could my customer somehow screwed the programming up cause this?

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: September 23, 2006 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged

The "fuse box" is in reality the driver's-side MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit)........ it's basicaly the body-control module, and fusebox, built as one.

Sounds like the dealer misdiagnosed the problem, which isn't a surprise....hopefully they don't give him a hard time about returning the part.

Before assuming that, though, call the dealer and find out of the new MICU would have to be programmed to the car before it would work....it is possible.

It's entirely possible to damage the MICU, even without making smoke or fire......if you get the wrong parking light wire, it'll get damaged.

Do the parking lights turn on and off correctly with the alarm and remote start? As in, they flash on and off when arming and disarming....... and stay on steady when remote started?

What did you use for parking lights?

If you haven't connected the WHITE/ blue headlight output to anything, it wouldn't matter what you or the customer did with the programming.

Also, have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? Never hurts to try.

honorabledog

Member - Posts: 23

Joined: June 19, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: September 24, 2006 at 7:11 AM / IP Logged

Thanks Chris,

If the car is behaving exactly the same with both fuse boxes do you still think it may need to be programmed? I wouldn't know how to do that.

Yes every alarm and remote start function associated with the parking lights work. They come on when arm/disarm and then when r/s.

I put the WHITE/ red from alarm to the RED / black that is the harness that goes to the rear of the vehicle for the lights. Only RED / black there. Then I put the white from alarm to the RED / black at the swich at the column.

I have disconnected the neg to work on the car but not the positive side. I'll try this while I'm swapping the old fuse box back in.

Chris Luongo

Platinum - Posts: 3,746

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: September 24, 2006 at 8:47 AM / IP Logged

Hey man no problem.

I have no idea if the replacement fusebox would have to be programmed..... it was just a thought. It does communicate, through databus signal, with other modules in the car, such as the two front doors for example.....so it wouldn't be a surprise if it was the type of thing that needed programming.

I will try to ask some friends at the Honda dealer I go to, tomorrow.

Yeah, you picked a perfect spot for the parking lights.....in the thick bundle running to the back....like you said, it's the only RED / black in that location, so it's hard to make a mistake. (I get the brake and trunk-release there, as well.)

The reason I asked about that is because, at the top of the fusebox, there are two plugs.......with three RED / black wires, and one BLACK/ red as well.

One of the RED / black wires is parking lights......another is ignition.....and another carries some kind of signal related to the computer. (I don't know what it is.)

What I do know, is that if you accidentally connect to the RED / black computer wire up there, the fuse box will stop working, and need to be replaced.

Also, you said you connected the other Audiovox parking light wire to the BLACK/ red at the steering column? That's an accessory wire.......I don't see how it could break anything, but it wouldn't be right.

The other Audiovox parking light wire should be connected to constant power, and preferably through a fuse for safety.

honorabledog

Member - Posts: 23

Joined: June 19, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: September 24, 2006 at 10:45 AM / IP Logged

I will re- wire the white wire to a constant source then, the one I tapped into was the headlight wire from switch that is supposed to have power at all times. Could I have zapped a plug or etc.?

The things I tried in the last hour were:

1Disconnected the power for 20 minutes while I swapped the fuse box again. no-effect

2.Removed all power to alarm and remote start, still no effect

3. Reconnected the alarm prk lights in reverse, no effect

4. Disconnected th light switch at column with no effect, the prk lights still stay on???

I'm running out of ideas.. You mentioned you got your brakes at the same spot as the prk light harness, I got mine directly at the brake pedal switch, do you think that could be an issue?

Thanks again, Mike

honorabledog

Member - Posts: 23

Joined: June 19, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: September 24, 2006 at 6:26 PM / IP Logged

New developments are when I put a jumper wire from the parklight wire to ground the parklights still stay on constantly but the turnsignals and the headlights now work. Could I have lost my ground to the park lights somehow which makes them stay on and prevent the headlights and turn signals from working? It's been a long day and it looks to be a long night.

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