Lights flicker on and off

When asking questions like this it is a good idea to post the vehicle make, model, and year or any other details.

without knowing all that info requires even more "guess work" on our part. But off the top of my head It seems your parking lights are somehow crossed with the domelight circuit..which is quite possible on some vehicles..also seems like you might have not done the ignition bypass correctly..but once again this is all guessing.

But as a starting point please meter your main 12v and ground connections at the brain and make sure they stay @ 12v or greater under all the conditions you listed. If not..you found a possible lead.

post back with the year, make, model and where you tapped the parking lights, door trigger and/or domelight supervision.

Ok..compare all your wiring to the following diagram..and double check all you connections (aka verify with a meter). Post back any results..thanks.

12volts  wht/red (30A), wht/blue (7.5A)  +   ignition harness 

The BECU (Body ECU) is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.

The hatch release motor wire is blue/black (+) at the BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 1.

The BECU (Body ECU) is attached to the back of the fuse box under the driver side dash.

This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty.

Ok I went to the car. it started ok and when I put my key in everything was good. So I then tried to start the car with my key and everything started to blink.  The wires I connected to are:

12volts  wht/red (30A), wht/blue (7.5A)  +   ignition harness               

Starter  BLACK / YELLOW   +   ignition harness               

Power Lock  lt. green   -   driver kick, 18 pin plug 

Tachometer  BLACK/ orange   ac   ECM, top plug, pin 5 

Power Unlock  blue (double pulse)   -   driver kick, 18 pin plug 

Parking Lights-  GREEN/ black   -   headlight switch 

Dome Supervision  RED / green   -   interior light switch on dash 

I set the Programming to constant lights on for the parking light and the door to bouble pulse.

Well what you need to do first is determine if it is something you did wrong...or if it is a defect in the product either caused by something you did wrong..or it is just defective.

Now to track down what is happening we need to take a logical approach. Ok, this happens when you try to start. Well when you start the car what happens is the ignition circuits get powered up...then when you go to the "crank" or start position...starter wire gets power....ignitions hold power...but  the accessory wires lose power.

Now if all else is wired correctly..the only thing the RS brain will detect is something on the ignition wire(s) during key on and crank.....and accessory wire losing power during start.

So common sense and basic troubleshooting logic tells us to check those first. It seems to me you might have the constant wire of the RS on an ignition or accessory wire by mistake..but do what I say and you will know for sure.

Take your meter and make sure all those wires are doing what they are supposed to..and connected properly. Make sure all the harnesses...especially the ribbon cable to relay module are all plugged in solidly..I have seen those come lose before and cause strange problems.

What I would do first is take the meter and check if the wire you hooked to constant stays constant at all times..measure it with the key off...ignition/run and start.  If thats good go to measure any ignition wires you hooked up...make sure they show 12v with key on AND start..but no voltage with key off.  If nothing yet go the any accy you connect...make sure it has 12v when key in acc and ignition position...but 0 volts when key off AND in start position.

And this is IMPORTANT.  You must take the measurments at the RS harnesses...not at the vehicles ignition harness in case you are actually on the correct wires..but simply have a poor connection.

If you can't find anything wrong disconnect them one at a time until the problem stops. Once it stops you know whats causing it.

Trust me on this..I have excellent troubleshooting skills, my cell phone is busier then any "tech line" from manufacturers for these kind of problems..If you do what I say carefully..you will have it figured out in no time flat.

In the worst case something happened to mess up something in the car so we need to determine if it is your wiring or a defect with the RS unit before any other steps can be taken.

Also remember to check the brains main constant..that is the smaller red wire on the long main harness that plugs into the RS brain. If that wire is losing 12v when you turn the key to run or start..it will cause problems.

And it can't hurt to double and triple check the ground...check it at the same main harness (the thin black wire) and make sure it holds at least 12v with key off...key on..and start.  You MUST use a meter to do this or you will be head scratching forever. Do as I say and you will be back in business soon.