'96 4runner ignition diagram

Hey guys, I am trying to remove an aftermarket alarm system from my '96 4Runner SR5, but just can't understand the wiring setup. I am following an online "alarm removal manual" that provides a step-by-step description of removing the alarm. At one point it mentions "two large wires coming from the module that are the same color splice into the ignition wire". As far as I am concerned, all wires coming out of the module are the same size, and many wires are in fact the same color. I am totally confused. Also, for the life of me, I can't locate the ignition wire/wires. Follow the link so you guys can see what I am doing. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3293349607527.138985.1081402733&type=3&l=78bbb0cbcfvasiq

If it is JUST an aftermarket... Trace all the wires from the Brain to their connections, and dis-connect... Fix spot where attachment was made... Is the Loom the wires are in have any other wires in the Loom... If not, remove the Loom and trace the wires... How does the online manual know which unit you have installed in the 4runner...?M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

1996 Toyota 4Runner     DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information Security Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location 12 Volts     white - WHITE/ red      +     ignition harness Starter     black      +     ignition harness Ignition     BLACK / YELLOW      +     ignition harness Data Bus    Can Bus High    Can Bus Low    Can Bus Sw    Power Lock     RED / white      -     10 pin plug, left of fusebox Power Unlock     RED / yellow      -     10 pin plug, left of fusebox Lock Motor    Driver Unlock Motor    Passenger Unlock Motor    Parking Lights (-)     RED / white steering column Parking Lights (+)     green white plug, front of fusebox Hazards    Turn Signal (Left)    Turn Signal (Right)    Headlight     red or green      -     steering column AutoLights    Left Front Door Trigger     BLACK/ white      -     DKP, harness to rear Right Front Door Trigger    Left Rear Door Trigger    Right Rear Door Trigger    Dome Supervision     use door trigger Trunk/Hatch Pin     RED / white      -     DKP, harness to rear Rear Glass Pin    Hood Pin    Trunk/Hatch Release    Trunk Release Motor    Fuel Door Release    Power Sliding Door (Left)    Power Sliding Door (Right)    Factory Alarm Arm    Factory Alarm Disarm    Disarm No Unlock    Trunk Alarm Shunt    Tachometer     black      ac     ignitor or diag. plug Ignitor is on passenger side fender well. Diagnostic connector is on drivers side top of motor. Fuel Pump    Horn Trigger     GREEN/ red      -     steering column Memory Seat 1    Memory Seat 2   M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Just remove the alarm "brain" and see if the vehicle starts. If so that's it, job done. If it doesn't it's more like to be a starter than ignition cut, look for the black or BLACK / YELLOW and join. This sort of job is about 5 minutes for me with multiple cuts, and I'm sure the same for Tommy. Just drop the knee pad and if the ignition switch is in the steering column cowl remove for ignition loom access, what 6 screws all together?

Thank you so much for your reply. Well the problem is that there are way too many wires coming out of the alarm unit; online videos and manuals claim that the yellow wire goes to the ignition. Since the alarm system has blocked the vehicle from starting, I figured I should begin with the yellow wire. I can link pictures so you guys have a better idea what I am talking about. Also, you said to look for the black or BLACK / YELLOW wire and join. Join with what? Please provide a detailed explanation as I am not too car savvy.vasiq

Look for the vehicle black or BLACK / YELLOW. If the gauge lights come on and it doesn't turn over then the black has been cut, join the leads together.. If the starter turns over and it doesn't fire up, it's the BLACK / YELLOW for the same treatment. From your line of questioning I would respectfully suggest you get a pro to sort this out, literally a 5-20 minute job, I do it all the time on vehicles of this vintage.

I 2nd paying a shop to do it... This seems way over your head... Online manuals do not know what you have installed... Though, generically accurate... Look for your starter wire in the car and re-attach... then unplug brain and start vehicle... Otherwise... $68 at any shop...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Thank you so much guys. I simply took the module aka "brains" out and the truck started just fine. Thanks again, really appreciate it. The moderator can now go ahead and archive the thread.vasiq

So you finally noticed my first post then?

hahaha kinda wanted to go with the manual that I got online. The plethora of wires essentially made me give up on the step by step procedure of the manual. Thanks again.vasiq