no power inside vehicle

I have a 2001 Honda CR-V and I have no power inside of vehicle, vehicle will not start, dash lights, radio, interior lghts, clock, door locks, windows, wipers or headlights nothing that's turned on from inside of vehicle works but the horn works.

When you over-ride the two power wires that connected to the battery and fuse/relay compartment with double end lobster clips the vehicle will start right up and continue to run but once the vehicle is shut off right back to square route one.  Battery and fuses are good I don't know how to test relays.

I think it has something to do with one of the relays involving the wire that sends power into the vehicle, what do you think the problem could be?  

A wiring diagram for the vehicle would be useful.   

Check for blown fuselinks - usually 2-pin plastic devices. You may have blown your "main" flink (fuselink) which is likely to be bolted in. (Lower rated flinks may simply be push in.) Flinks can be mounted (under a cover) on the +ve battery lead (Toyota, Daewoo etc) else are usually in the first/main fuse/relay box. Sorry I don't have the specifics for your vehicle. PS - if it were the ECM relay or others, then something should work on the car - eg, lights etc. But a "main" flink usually kills all power except the main power to the starter.

50 amp fuse, engine bay fusebox, bet you haven't got 12 volts at the ignition switch, very common problem with Hondas. There are no relays in that circuit. Usually down to amateurs dabbling in the arcane art of car audio and convenience who aren't up to it.

Correction, might be 40 amps, either F1, F2 F3. Marked as IGNITION. If nothing is visible, use a DMM to test continuity. Let us know please. Another option would be a faulty ignition switch, I've seen that too but my bet is the fuse.

I don't have any circuit diagrams but the fuse outputs including possibly the main 80 amp fuse are all coloured white. White then goes to the interior fusebox and another white to the ignition switch. You have to test the whites coming out of that engine bay fusebox. Test to see if you have 12V+ on the white at the switch, if so, turn on ignition to see if the BLACK / YELLOW goes live.

The pics on the following links may be similar to your fusebox... honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2962203 honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=47381601 In the first you'll see screw-down 60A (looks colorless but should be yellow) and 40A (green) flinks, while the 2nd highlights a green (40A) flink which is apparently the battery fuse. (Not that I trust their info**) Your main fuse (flink) might be 60A to 100A. 40A is IMO too low unless there are a few parallel flinks (to different circuits) rather than one big "master" or main flink. Jap flinks are color-coded (eg, 80A is black) but their Amperage is also printed or embossed on the flink's clear cover. Blown fuses/flinks will not have bright shiny copper joining their 2 terminals. The copper should be visible thru their transparent covers. Main/large (high-current) flinks are screwed or bolted in. Smaller flinks are usually just push in. (Push in is available up to 80A, though after experiencing a melted 40A plug-in flink, I consider 40A an upper limit for plug-ins unless their contacts are occasionally checked for cleanliness.) ** Incidentally, the first pic shows the ELD (Electrical Load Detector) between the two mentioned screwed flinks. I fail to see the need for ELDs for "load control" as that merely adds complication, adds overall load and hence increases fuel economy. (IMO their only purpose is for greater acceleration. Vehicle battery & charging systems are a "constant voltage" system and merely regulate by measuring and maintaining voltage. The actual current drawn is irrelevant wrt regulation.) But elsewhere on honda-tech their operation is described as dropping the alternator voltage to 12.3V. That's ridiculous - the battery is usually 12.6V or higher!) IMO that means either that they are not measuring voltage at the battery, or, um, they are certainly "unqualified" in their descriptions. (I edited that last bit to tone down my original comment.) But hence why I treat their info as sus. [ VIZ - a reverse connected battery probably "blew an ECU". So Hondas do not have the usual reverse-polarity protected ECU relay that most other and every Jap car has? I'll bet the problem is a blown flink due to reverse-biased alternator diodes. ]

Screw in and marked "ignition" Pete. Did we scare the poor sod off?

Yes the second pic is a good likeness except for the aligator clips would be attached to the two screws with the thick black wires in front of the battery fuse one clip on each side

and I can remove the aligator clips once the vehicle starts without it shutting off full power inside and out unless I turn it off then I would have to do a repeat with the aligator clips to start it again.

Just by attaching the aligator clips the the two screws with the thick black wires everything in the vehicle will work even if I don't start the vehicle but remove the aligator clips without the vehicle running everything goes dead.

Oh just change the bloody fuse and problem solved.

fulton883 wrote: ...and I can remove the aligator clips once the vehicle starts...

You should NEVER do that! That's disconnecting the running alternator/engine from the battery - google it and read stories of fried ECUs and electronics and stalled cars in the path of oncoming trains because there was no battery to absorb the >100V spikes nor to stop the car stalling under braking or dipping headlights or flashers... ...The train was funny - the partner in the passenger seat: "Could you PLEASE hurry with that aliga... alli... ...train..." {clip!} .